Cynic

Look like early 600 diversion wheels to me.

Its just what baby 2 strokes do. They make power at high RPM. I've just got a TDR250, 2stroke 250 twin and that is flat untill 6000RPM whereby it goes psyco, the DT will be very similar just with less psyco.

The person that manages that will make a MINT. Probably don't want to be trapped in a lift with em tho....

Look at it from a more upseting point of view. You want to make it easier to nick somebody elses bike. Disc locks are good for out and about (so long as you get a good one some can be opend with a pen top) D locks are handy too as they can go around railings and such. Personally if you want to buy a monster lock great but you are going to have to carry it. So buy another and keep size sensible as a traveling lock and keep the monster for when its locked up outside overnight. As when you are out and about you are only worrying about oppotunistic wank3rs. But once its been parked regularily in the same spot for a while people can plan. If you can the chain really wants to pass through the frame, wheels can be removed. Also a cover would also be a wise move as then people cannot see what you have, and they cannot see the security you have. Also basic stuff if you have a security light use it or fit one. If you have say a padlock around the chain and sprocket ( disc locks dont generally fit rear discks), the BF chain through the frame and round the post, not forgetting to route the chain so the lock is floating about in mid air and a Disc lock/the traveling lock on the front all coverd up i cannot see anybody being arsed to remove all of that. Thats probably OTT but ultimately its up to you but if somebody really wants it they will take it, unfortunately. Oh and welcome.

Don't be stupid. You can travel far faster on the bike cos you are not stuck behind little old ladies, reptiles loaded wagons etc. You will just be frustrated all the time. No i'd take the bike thanks, flog the Mitsibushi thingy turbo gangstamobile buy a cheapie and spend on the bike/biking.

Comes up saying you not sharing the photo's,?????

Yeah i know, i just think it is a bit to narrow. When was the last time you heard of someone upgrading their motorcycle. We all buy our bikes for reasons that apply at the time could be with your heart or your head. Bloke i see at work is chuffed with his Duvall ( i know i know) I'm chuffed with the TDR i have got hold of. You can agree very different bikes but both bought for the same reason backache, we both needed the upright riding position but we prefer different soloutions. I think all the new stuff has got a bit disposable TBH they look alike in their particular part of the sales plan and they all perform far above the capabilities of most of us as motorcyclists. And as for the dealers i wouldnt pi55 on most of em if they caught fire. You only have to log on here to see how different we all are, but imagine how shitty it would be if we weren't.

Sorry tried to fill it in but it looks more like a new car survey. Bikes are bought from the heart, they trigger emotive feelings and perform specific jobs for the owner. All my bikes present and previous are as different as chalk and cheese. All bought at different times in my life for different reasons and all second hand. I like your aims but it needs to be much bigger to cover the issue you are looking at.

Advice from the man who's been there and done it.

No worries.

As said you are rotating the selector drum for each cog so 1-2 needs a bigger kick to clear neutral. If it really bothers you reverse the linkage to give you a race pattern 1 up 5 down then you can give it a good prod to get past it, pain in the arse in traffic mind.

Cos the driving test is checking you can go forewards, turn, and stop without falling off and read a few signs. The advanced instruction is just that, teaching skills that are far above any DVLC rubbish. Also conversly they actually help you go considerably faster whilst being safer and slower (sic). But if you are not serious about riding to your/and other peoples limits its all a waste of time. I took a bloke from work out on a ride at the weekend. He's had his licence about a year and he didn't know how to safely filter in town. He was sitiing in traffic like cars On a VTR1000??. Once we had that sorted i gave him some help with his normal riding on faster stretches of road as his road and body position were all wrong. He was far happier with the bike after this, we did vanishing points and stuff. In the end he was traveling a lot quicker by average but doing it at a slower speed using his brakes far less and reading the road properly. As his experience increaces his real speed will follow but under control as he is far more aware of his motorcycle. 3-4 hours and a Sunday breakfst ( we all have our price) transformed him.

Got an absoloutly stonking GSX600f fully sorted that you can have for a lot less than 2k Full stainless Remus Viper exhaust system Dynojetted by TTS (Google em) Upsized rear to take modern rubber the current set has barely worn in. Gsxr 11 calipers Hagon susp Around 25000mls T and T till April I spent the weding deposit on it 12 years ago, its had a lot of love and much as i can i'd like it to go to a proper home Proper tidy as well, back injury means i've had to go for trailee type stuff hence the TDR.

Got hold of a lovely TDR 250, great bodywork really looked after, ( as far as washing and polishing goes). Brake fluid like 3 day old coffee, OVER 2L of transmission oil in the box (1L req, i thought it would never stop as i only had a small bowl) that was black, throttle cable, clutch cable, oil pump, chain, lever positions, gear change anti rattle shim missing, squeaky brakes, ancient plugs badly gapped. Spent all Sunday sorting that little lot, just waiting on the tyres now they are in Wed/TH they are aincient (sidewalls are starting to crack). It goes a LOT better for the work tho. When will people realise these things don't maintain themselves AND THIS IS A TIDY ONE!. I mean this motor is making over 200bhp/litre that needs some respect methinks.

If you are using it for bush bashing you really really need a filter or the dust will kill it stone dead, one of the pod filters will be fine with a light coating of WD40 or similar. I assume water is not your problem just dust and the really fine desert type stuff is killer for engines.

Its just the greenies making the bikes heavier, as the pistons move they cause pressure underneath them. There will also be a little blow by on the rings this needs to be vented or bye bye seals. Once upon a time it was a pipe out of the cases ( you must have seen a Triumph bonny with an oily piece of hosepipe by the no plate) but then the started routing them to the airbox as the engine burns the vapour so cleaning things up.

I have to say that i have gone for the avoid option rather than the stopping option. I never over ride my stopping distance tho. I did a police observed ride, which is a very humbling experience as they ride extreemly quickly and cleanly and the advice and corrective infomation they give is superb. The main lesson from him was to ride with an escape route, read every situation like it can kill you and plan to avoid it if it happens. It has saved me from serious accidents twice. It is something i do now regardles of if i'm on the bike in the car and at work in the truck. Read the situations as you see them and be prepared react to what may be the stupidest thing someone can do.

Dont forget the laws of physics people, all that weight thrown foreward will anchor the nose well and truly into the tarmac, you can do stoppies in the wet. The problem is diesel, shitty surfaces and duff tyres and pressures. If you are driving straight and your tyres are good then unless you are on a duff surface (where you would adjust your speed accordingly, yes?) you are extreemly unlikely break the traction of the front tyre with the brakes on the bikes you have.

Fuel vaporisation, hot day, hot engine, hot fuel, hot air, hot carbs. My suzuki is a b4st4rd for it on hot days.

It will all be detailed in the manual. There are various opinions. Some thrash em from the word go some run em in religously.

You should get around 13v ideally 13.6 from a good battery in a stand alone voltage check, with pipe carb and filter mods you are asking a lot of the starter/ cdi combination. All that extra gas needs a comparatively bigger spark to get it going. The bit i'm curious about is the dry plugs when on choke, are you sure the choke works? As i have never had a bike that refused to start on choke have dry plugs unless the carbs were the issue. She will start on the bump because of the much greater draw when the engine is spun on the bump. Try squirting some fuel down the carb as you crank her over, use an old 3 in one can or such.

What you on about its a crankcase fed stroker, tank off, drain the water, head bolts, new gasket retorque. Wash hands where is the problem.

My money would be Head gasket..........Hours work if the fasteners behave.

Right this needs a little tech knowledge to rig up a rain sensitive switch.Once you have that sorted you need to add a connection so under say 60 it doesent open, public and enviromental concerns are important. You need this bit as you obviously cannot opperate it by hand that would be dangerous. Now loop the handle through the back of your jeans and go for a fast blast knowing that you will not get wet if it rains.

I would think its a bit of a trick, read the small print i wouldn't mind betting you cash that and then you have effectively accepted the decision.