Cynic

Sometimes you just can't see the obvious. Its not like a DT 175 either early or late because it isnt a DT engine, its for a TY175, broadly similar to a later dt motor but the gearshift layout is different. The gearshaft on a DT goes right across the motor to the RH side behind the clutch. On the ty it is partly on the left side as well behind the cover held in place with the screws you can see bottom centre behind the sprocket. The screw in question on a later DT is a grub screw to keep the operating shaft in place and uses a sealing washer. The earlier system has a 10mm nut with a posi head in the centre that does the adjusting. I may be wrong but thats how it looks to me from the pic. If you could post the Engine no we would be able to check properly.

No real fix for that i'm afraid once you start welding the cracks the heat of the weld stresses the metal next to it and that cracks, you end up chasing your own tail. After a while you will find it difficult to get the exhaust to seal and then a stud will snap. I have been down this road myself. Get saving for a new pipe and scower ebay and such they do come up. The big one pipes seem to be the commonest, although the chrome doesent do much for me. It would be a good base for some VHT black tho.

I think everyone's been there. My cloth experience was rounding a bend at legal speeds (the Gp100 strugled to crack 65) speed to find just out of sight a stationary tractor with whirly spikey bits on the back just parked while the driver opend a gate.

Got to be honest the only thing that comes to mind is if the wodruf key is moving, as you put the flywheel on. Oterwise? Got any photo's

Hello,that would be me in a nutshell. Gone from a 50 right up to 1100 breifly and now my wapon of choice, TDR250. That bike and a tasty set of turns and you can watch me dissapear in a cloud of sweet smelling smoke as you try and find some useable stomp before the tank has your knackers on the next bump. On ANY modern 600 hypersports. I prefer to have a bike i can get 99% out of rather than waste 99% of the bike. I do not believe you can go from a 125 to a R6 effectively. That bike demands a good, experienced rider to get its potential even remotely realised.

I should engage brain before fingers, your TT600 is 45odd hp+ with lots of highrev power from the 4 valve super sporty engine, the XT is a 35odd horspower soc ploder (sorry xt fans) for work and green lane duties. I would say you need the correct CDi for the ig map and spark timing to be correct.

I should coco, its trying to supply 4 sparks(well 2 twice)to your engine, so you will see a 4 sparks per revolution. Replacement required.

Sounds like you need to check your pulse coil and wiring up to the cdi, most 4 stroke engines run a wasted spark system where the engine sparks every time the piston reaches the top of the cyl, it simplifies the ig circuits and keeps the plug clean. If the coil isnt working properly it will give erratic triggers to the cdi and so it will spark all over the place. Whenever i have ig problems like this i always junk the plugs and caps unless they are recently fitted and carefully check earth points and the ig coils. It is amazing the chaos a bad earth can cause. Hope this helps

Dunno mate, i tried to change my siq a few days back, still no good just get strange error messages. I can't even delete the one i've got. Can't do it with my daughters laptop either so it isn't the browser.? We being thick together?????

Master cyl piston seal leaking letting the pressure bleed out. Condition of front tyre Rider technique Front fork condition allowing the forks to 'hammer' due to lack of damping. I very much doubt a substitute front wheel will cure anything bar cost.

I've just been reading about that, terrible thing i sympathise with the club and the families.

I'd be getting a manual and reading it before modding the bike, in my experience modding for the sake of it rarely improves a bike. Getting running like new first THEN maybe look at mods.

I'd go with using a relay myself which cuts them off when the ig is off.

Michelin pilot road 2's, exellent long lasting sports touring tyre. Plenty enough grip for 90% of the time. If you need the last 10% on a 350 a week commute your licence/leathers won't last as long as the rubber.

Paddy goes for a Pizza, he's sat down in the restaurant and the waiter turns up with the potatoe and guinnes pizza. 'Woulda youa lika da pizza cut ina da 6 pieces or da 8 pieces.' 'Well now, you'd better be cutting it into 6, oi dont tink oi can manage 8.'

What you want to do is first off, get all the bits sorted out in the order they will be fitted and note the orientation, this is best done the night before (I did) as you can stuff the crank and bearings into a bag/clingfilm and stuff it in the freezer overnight. Once you start there is no stopping, so. Get the cases nice and hot, don't worry about melting anything as long as you are using a heat gun you will be ok. Iron hot was the description i was given (as in your spit wont stick). Once you have the cases ready nip in the house and get the bearings from the freezer if the cases are hot enough they should litterally drop in no violence required at all. Now keep heat on the cases and let the bearings grow into place as the temps stabalise. Once the bearings are fixed (and putting them in this way they will be) heat everything right up again and pop the seals in the same way, they will also drop straight in. Dont forget the output seal and bearing. At this point i went and got the crank and then proceded to give the left hand bearing a good warming and then slid the crank through, it should slide easily if you have enough heat. There you go, easy. It really is done in about tem minutes with some slightly singed fingers. When you put the cases together (DON'T FORGET THE O RING ON THE RHSIDE OF THE CRANK) use the heat gun to warm the RHside bearing centre and the cases will slide together much easier. Oh crank bearings, lettering faces the rod, on the seals the lettering faces away from the rod. And dont mix up the seals or bearings they look similar but ARE different and can be swaped inadvertently. Hope this helps.

Yes they have a time restriction but WHY does it have to stop at 1-2 hours the chineese and the indians make bloody great epics. They mutilate books for films, why do they have to take plots like AD and make the cryptic and intreging trail that is followed to the illuminati something my daughter could twig. The book has a certain amount of poetic licence in it anyway. Gas, can you really see the prof pushing the shelving over to get out of the airtight vault he was in? Or surviving the dive from the chopper? Lets be honest anti matter! But in the book it all works as a whole, a complete part. It shouldnt be mutated just to fit the cinematic. Upyours dont forget that a book is for the main scene setting and discription of actions which is taken care of with the visuals in a film, i don't think you have to tear them up that much to make it work.

Agree, agree, agree, my soloution is go to the cinema for the knuckle draggers that you can stare at more than watch. And anything that may have the slightest complexity to it, read it.

I'm the same if they have to rip the story about that badly to make into a film why not change the name as well to something like, Angels and Demons. The short version for people who can't be arsed to spend some intelectual time with a book. Think it might affect sales? I go to the cinema to watch the kind of films that i wouldn't bother to read a book of. Star Trek, the Die Hard stuff that kind of thing. I was dissapointed when i watched the Da vinci code after being told it was like the book. Won't fall for that again.

Simple fix, first off the headlight, its fine as it is. Its designed to work that way and so long as its working your ok, Never heard of a V#lvo failing for having its lights on. As far as the indicators go it is done one of 2 ways, interupt the supply to the indicator so its basically working backwards if you like, or there are twin fillament lamps in there like your tail light. In which case you can just disconnect the sidelight feed to the indicators (providing they are yellow). Thats easy just a trial and error jobbie to disconnect the right wire.

I had one of those years ago as i recall the diference between the 100 and the 125 was slightly more than cock all, tbh the RXS100 was a better bike the engine was far more flexible with a better gearbox as the upper ratio's were close and the first couple wide, the bloody suzuki was the opposite so get ready to dance. The yam was no match for the suzuki in the corners (sorry it wasn't). Ruined several pairs of DM's on that ol GP. Till i went over the bars at around 40mph and mashed it. End over end 3 times apparently.

I'm afraid its big hammer time as far as the manual goes, a swift tap is how its described in mine. Almighty wallop is nearer in my experience. With hindsigt stuffing it in the oven on max or heating it with a heat gun may have been a more sensible move. The ally will expand quicker than the steel of the crank bearing and should allow you to tap it out. The crank seals should be 'letter side' out in both cases same as the bearings and are fitted although the 2 seals are very different in their duties and as such cannot be mixed up. As i recall the ring should be on the gearboxside of the seal, otherwise there are clearance issues on the crank. Whatever the side you tap it into place with is the letterd side so it has no relevance esp as you are going to junk it anyhow. As far as the rubber bush/damper thingg (tech speak) in the words of the man at TY trials, 'for what it is it costs a bloody fortune and does next to bugger all if you can save it then do so.' You are looking at 40 odd quid+ JUST for that fancy bushing. Unless its falling to bits leave well alone. Hope this helps........

Yep, got the latest IE a couple of weeks ago. Anybody else who ISNT a moderator able to change theirs?

Yes verry funny mister git.... Seriously i get error #10211 or #1029, no matter what i try to write, add fonts whatever. It wont even let me re enter the sig i've got cos its too long?

Looks like the boilers got its steam up now quicker than the old one, whats the BG potato man they are on about?