Cynic

Ran a GSX600f for 12 years and out of all the stuff i tried Michelin Pilot Road and subsiquently MPR2, no contest. Last for ages 6000 from the rear more from the front. I do like to 'enjoy' my bikes so you can probably add several thousand to that if you ride with a little restraint.

Shhhesh winter roads and knoblies, no ta

Cos stupid people think it makes them faster. It just ruins the bottom end power so the power band FEELS stronger. There are a couple of people on here well into the old yammy crossers so they will be very capable of helping you along, or taking the p15s. Don't give up on it, too many do.

As a personal fan of the 'If it ain't broke club'. If the only issue is the plug, the engine is running well, not using oil/water etc and it can be fixed with the motor intact, why worry. Like og said a little bit of ally dust wont hurt anything on a diesel .

Not forgotten jim, its just DT owners seem to ask more than the TZR/RD owners. I assume the Dt folks have gone out on there pride and joy and been walloped by a good headwind (50mph anybody) where the road rockets get away with a lot more. If you have anything to add jim?

Just wondering here, with the amount of people who come on with the same question, "IE I have a DT 125 and want to make it go faster." Considering the frequency of the question would it not be worthwhile to have a sticky in the off road section that gives the folks some RELIABLE info, maybe a few web sites like DT.com or whatever its called. I'm not wanting to turn members away but those sites have dedicated blogs with instructions on "how to destroy your engine in the most expensive ways imaginable" i mean garage tuning. Some real advice for people. I would have thought its a pretty pro forma method to tune up a healthy DT, you know, standard methods for removing the restrictions to get the full performance. And any DT's that aren't healthy? There is the main forum to help them out.

Valid point Merv but it does it when its running and when it runs good it is great. Then it dies apparently. Whatever it actually is it is intermittant. If there is some derv floating about in the carb and drops washing about in the tank that could create some odd problems.

Diesel in the carb would have an effect very similar to water as the fuel will float on the diesel, but if the diesel gets into the jet then it will block momentarily. With the knowledge of the diesel mishap i would do the carb strip first, you more than likely still have some diesel in there. Leave the ig issue at the moment. Keep it simple and do the carb, that is more than likely the problem. If that doesent fix it then look at the ignition. You can get tangled up with different issues very quickly if you lose your focus.

4 stroking is when the engine isnt firing cleanly, it fires badly on one stoke then some the excess fuel ignites on the second and repeat. Trouble is it generally fires late so you dont get a good blow down of the cylinder so it stagnates with bad gas (causing the bad power stroke where it doesent fire properly). Its self perpetuating and if you let it run like that it will flood out. You need to wind it on if it will and clear the cylinder(s). Typically, carb causes it with air leaks but a bad exhaust can do it too. Crank seals are in the mix but if that was the case it would run bad full stop. My money in this case and its only a feeling, ignition a bad plug/coil giving intermitant/weak spark added to maybe a bad float height. At most some sh1t in the float bowl floating around.

Thank God it was side on, pheeew

Did he sell them or fix em Sorry thats not fair. If you have had piston,rings,bore and CRANK bearings done then there shouldn't be anything to worry about inside. It should all have been delt with in the build. Check out that carb.

Oh, how thourough was the rebuild? and was it done by someone who knew what they were doing/ were recomended to you by someone? If it was a complete rebuild then the engine builder should have set the ig timing before they put the flywheel back on they should also have re-bushed/decoked the powervalve if it was required. There should be no worries about the motor IF its been rebuilt properly. As far as the carb goes, take it off and give it a thourough clean internally checking all the airways and jets are clear. Set the float height and then re fit it. Use good fuel fresh from the pump (or no more than a couple of weeks old) and start it again. If you still get all the horrible noises i'd consider taking it back to the person that 'rebuilt it'.

I'm afraid all the manuals for bikes of that vintage are just as shite, they used a kind of exploded view rather than the line drawings that are used today. The haynes diagrams are not too bad (Manual 210, isbn 1 85010 300 3, covers everything from 100cc to 175 from 71-85) and you can cross reference with the later stuff that is more or less the same. I think there are some digital versions floating about. There will be folks on later that can prob do you a link.

Your piston cannot hit the powervalve, thats the easy bit done. The rattling/knocking sounds like dettonation, added to what sounds like some carb problems. Favorite would be the main jet blocked as the choke helps things along. Looks like she's asking for a bit of TLC.

As far as i know yamaha have claimed all but one of the major racing championships this year, Moto GP (Rossi is way ahead of the Little Red Tractor), WSB,BSB etc, i think they are kicking arse in the dirt too. Will that do.

From the sludge and the staining i would say she has been running on poor oil, or spent a long time in the same stuff. Although if it has been run at the wrong clearance then the cam would have been hammerd (the tapping sound)by the follower. The suzuki i've just sold was 13 years old at around 25000 miles and you could barely see the wear, it was more of a polish with NO sludge, even any staining. But that had lived in Rock synthesis4 its entire life changed every 4-5000mls. In all that mileage (i owned it from 1800mls) it had only ever needed 4 shims.

I'm with Paul on this, carb related. Don't worry about crank seals they make it an arse to start.

No problem, don't forget that drwg is for a bike older than yours, you will need to check for the proper part and it will be slightly different to what i put up but it will do the same job.

Suzi

Damn right. I don't think mine are exactly green

Your side of the pond the DT never made it past 82 cos of emmisions.

You don't insure it as a comercial vehicle do you duh. Come on man use the system. Tell them you have seats in it, becomes a people carrier. Keep it under 7 (including the driver) though or you will be a bus. And dont forget you can pack a MONSTER sound system in a transit van. Its essentially a sierra (cortina if you want to be picky) underneath so you can slam it into the ground, wheels off a cosie. Bit of paint, bet there is plenty of blue at your place. As for babe magnet, i'm sure the ladies will agree here, on a cold evening bit of rain about you will be amazed what the ladies will prefer, spotty's cramped go faster shit heap or a warm dry 'room' where you can chill out with your mates and have the tunes up loud. They do around a ton if they are healthy with a bit of extra boost. Or dig around for a V6 (ambulance/emergency services) and get it lpg'd, 130mph van? Or back to the first point, its cheap and you can carry all your cr@p in it and it is good on fuel. At the end of the day as far as babe magnet goes isn't that the uniform.

On the older DT there is a type of spring clip. It lives on the inside edge of the kick start gear and it stops it spinning just enough to make it engage with the idler to start the engine. Have a look here, http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175h-1981_model8795/partslist/B-05.html I know its not a perfect diagram but you are looking at item 3 not being in position or missing at a guess. I'm better with the older DT's myself but i don't think it will be all that different on the later stuff.

Transit van, peanuts to buy cheap to run parts found in every scrappy, use the stuff from old sierra's to make it go and with some paneling and carpet, added to a night heater from a truck you can sleep and get laid in it too. Well its what i did.

iconic