Cynic

Thats a tricky one, just keep an eye out on E bay, or get one made (pricey) If its the airccoled bike you are talking about then its pretty much anything dt 125/175 from 1978 to 1985, even the later LC isn't that far removed. You could certainly 'tweak it to fit'.

Before they got cute with the carbs on big thumpers they cheated. The primary carb deals with starting the engine, idle, and general running around. This gives you good torque and fuel economy. The second carb is not connected to the throttle directly it works on vacume from the primary carb and opens when the engine vacume demands it, Generally at higher rpm. Therefore you effectively have a whopping great carb when the engine can handle it and a little tea strainer when i can't.

How can a FZR1000 be discribed as gutless in any respect

Couldnt find a breakers with the kit your after, but what about this, ebay item number 370298672648. Its not an EXUP pipe, its a pipe for an exup without the valve, spankin new, made of stainless for 320 notes. Got to be worth considering.

Forcefull mistress for me too.(Did i say that out loud.....?)

Welcome Wattsy, sorry mate you may be a fabulous dealer but i'm afraid i have been burned buy 2 car dealers, one for my Range Rover (not a Land Rover dealer) and the other for our nissan. They were great when you were buying something nice and shiny and expensive, then when i had problems with both it got expensive and brutal real fast. Same with motorcycle dealers i have dealt with. So untill i'm shown different i will avoid them like flaming hot anal probes.

Sorry to be a bugbear here but, it shouldn't be running great, it should be a bast4rd to start and the plug should be as oily as the tailpipe, worse even as engine oil (i don't mean 2stroke) isn't designed to burn. Also it does smell foul believe me, really acrid taste at the back of the throat taste. Its the plug thats making me wonder if you have 500 miles of sludge slowly burning off the pipe, my TDR did it recently and was like a red arrow for a day or two. How much oil has it actually been through, the way you are describing it it will clear out the gearbox in short order, its only about 70cc between max and min that would be gone in a couple of miles, they do use a little and those little windows are a pain to get good levels from, even the dipstic for mine (and no i don't mean me) isn't perfect. (well maybe its me) I'm happy to be proved wrong but it isn't shouting crank seals at me.

Sorry to spoil your rant but its not the motorcycle's fault, its a 2stroke and it broke (quell suprise) mine have done it often enough. ALL dealers will rip you off, car/truck/motorcycle christ even mobility scooter dealers (yes my mother in law looked into one) i hear sooooo many times that someone will 'Never buy another Yamaha' why, cos of the dealer. If you had posted on here asking where to get the above parts i bet you would have paid a quarter of that. You may even have had someone stick something in the post they had knocking about. I have NEVER had a good dealer experience so now go out of my way to avoid them when looking for parts.

You dont sound convinced OG and TBH neither am I, lots of white smoke smacks more of water, it has been recently rebuilt too so a duff gasket is by no means out of the question. The oil level would be dissapearing vquick if its smoking that bad and it would be running like a sack of spanners to boot. EDIT Also gearbox/4stroke engine oil stinks something wicked when its burnt.

Its perfectly normal, disks have a high iron content to give good friction so if they get wet, they rust. Its only superficial. Keep an eye on the bobins that the disk mounts on though they need to remain free or the disk will warp. Bucket and sponge (as in keep it washed especially at this time of year) will keep them good.

Sorry mate but i think your post is going to get deleted, this should be in the wanted section. Re word your problem in the workshop section and fill out your profile properly and you will get plenty of help. Your motor wont be beyond help and there is stuff on the e-bay to sort it.

Totally agree with you gas, to emphasise your point there is a lass near me that has a 10 year old daughter, she is about to drop for another. Father unknown and absent could be one of two apparently. I was shot down in flames for saying that she was keeping herself coverd for the next 10 to 15 with her free council house and subsidised utilities. Dole/benefits whatever should not be a replacement for work, my sister freely admits (with childcare) she cannot afford to go to work because with the benefits she'd loose and the childcare she would have to pay she cannot earn enough to actually have any money left at the end of the week, i think thats lame i have never been out of work and the reason the wife and i work stupid hours (as in start and finish times) is to save us having to spend on child care so it is perfectly possible. Why can benefits be capped as you say, for the first 6 months you get a reasonable handout to keep you going while you are seeking work, the people who are out of work for a long period and i'm including my one parent sister in this, should have their utilities and rent coverd by the state and a basic amount of money for food and renumeration for expences they need for getting a job. And before i get hung with gas for my views i have NEVER claimed from the benefits system, i have worked ever since i left school over 20 years ago, changing career and re-training (at my expence) 3 times in that period as the work i was doing dried up.

Its the use of the word slips that is catching my eye. As OG is saying check out the clutch. Gears don't slip especially at that kind of mileage. Jump,jam,lock, and any number of variations but it cannot slip. Also although the bike will come apart easily enough (i know i know) considering the age of the bike and the (relative) rarity of the parts involved i would not be rushing to split the cases untill i actually needed to. Like i said i'm with OG check out the clutch.

Told you they will punish you, don't diss the smokers......

Its a situation everybody goes through its part of learning to ride. I don't mean the how do i stop and steer for your test. But the reality of learning to understand and get the best from your bike. It will come, just use your bike and in time you will forget about the gears and which one you are in the same as you would in a car. You will instictively know which. Your bike will be relatively forgiving with gear errors, my 2 strokes punish you quite badly if you don't keep the motor in the sweet spot. Just relax and enjoy.

Better that than blinded by stupidity

How long is a piece of string, does it run? has it got paperwork? Define 'just' dusty and dirty. That can mean its hiding a million sins. My DT came to me 20 years ago with only 2000 odd miles on it, after spending the first 3-4 years of its life on the privateer enduro circuit. Although it did only cost me 25 quid.

Its there in red and white..........

It is better to have a white LED bulb/lamp in the tail as the red lense filters out about 30% of the light so white are brighter, also you will only see it when you look in a line with the direction the led is pointing in due to led's being very directional. I found this with my suzuki. I ended up with a white led unit with led's all over it like a led hedgehog that was pretty good. Biggest problem i found when trying to get better light out of the 350 i had was the generator had enough trouble with a bigger bulb let alone any extra lamps.

One pin for main beam, one pin for dip and the metal case acts as the earth, well kinda, modern bikes use neutral/ negative switching so you can use smaller wire and switches but you get the idea. What you did was power the dip beam and main at the same time via the common 'earth' connection.

Plenty, it is the first thing i check EVERY time i have a light issue.

Ha Ha, the DT125 has existed for 33years so whatever nasties can happen have. Take someone with you who knows what they are looking at and much as its tempting to buy a de-restricted bike a completely std one will be a better purchase.

I used to do sparky work till i knackerd my back and if i had a quid for every time i heard 'but its a new bulb' i'd be a bloody millionaire.

If you haven't got a clear idea of what you are after, leave well alone untill you do. I have done an LC and my old 600 and repeatedly changed my DT about to different spec's and styles for different reasons. Be they performance, looks, practicality and you have to have a clear idea of what you are after. A mental picture if you like. That way you can guess at a buget (It will be wrong no mater how good you are by about 50%) and find the required talent or kit to do it.

Is the battery any good, i have heard that a dodgy battery can cause some weird problems on the TDR/TZR 250's don't see why the 125 should be any different especially as you say it won't go off the button.