Cynic

Shit bad luck mate, i have done enough winters to be glad i can get in the car for the trip to work when its bad. But i've been there watching my pride and joy slide to destruction, you have my sympathies.

One front wheel for the MOT man and the proper one....... All wind ups aside its looking good, you have got further than i have with my DT. Everybody wants a piece of me at the moment. Especially the treasury, or thats how it feels these days. I saw a write up in CMM where a fellow had built a pure flat tracker, daylight MOT the works, it was done in yellow speedblocks and looked the nuts. If this ends up even half as tidy as that old nail you took to Ireland it should be a treat. Is it going to be red, Dewpy team colours

Wimp I thought it was all about the looks....... How about going real PURE flat tracker and dumping the front brake entirely .

Back in the day when these things were new they wern't particularly quick. Hard work to tune with no massive return and compared to the Suzuki 100 of the time the handling was crap, way too soft and bouncy. Strong bikes though. Micron made a pipe for them many moons back. Everybody bought TZR's and RD's to go fast so pipes and such for em were rare even then. They were left as the strong lively enough A to B bike that it was.

Pssst, and some white spirit or parafin to act as a sluice.

Nah thats a 95 FZRthou, you should see the latest can-bus systems. Feed return and a couple of signal wires and thats about it, all the units talk to each other. Literally a brain in the bike will tell the brain that works the indicators to make them come on. Then waits to be told to stop it. Almost impossible to fix roadside, like Peugeot cars, reset the service indicator with the non official programs that are online and after 10 shots the CPU on the car self destructs £900 quid for a new one thanks pluss fitting and set up. I like the old stuff you can fix them, that thou compared to the latest cross plane stuff is almost steam powerd by comparison. Although i bet if you put 2 average road riders on em there wouldnt be a lot in it. Also i've ridden a horse once. I'd sooner have Foamys Jawa/CZ thing.

The dash lamp works having wires from the left and right circuits going to it. The if you indicate left it will earth through the right circuit. LED lamps need nowhere near the power of a filament lamp something like .2w which as far as a fillament lamp (bulb) is concerned is nothing. The dash bulb alone at 2w will need something like 3 times the power draw of ALL of your indicators to light up. So your indicators will happily flash away effectively all connected together.

Have you checked out the pinned post in the workshop section. There are so many DT questions along these lines that Ryan09 one of the resident DT guru's has laid out a starter list for how to get your DT at its best, with a bit of extra pip if you want it. There are basic tips and a few websites to troll through that should sort you out. If not just shout, although some specifics like age, mileage, model and a good explanation of the problem would be good. Oh and while i'm on, you will be vulnerable to the goodnatured, and incisive pi55 taking that is rife on here. Welcome.

Right, electricity can be a tricky bugger and its one of its little idiosyncracies that may be messing you about. You have an indicator bulb on the dash. As in singular. To make this work the wiring is such that the left and right turn signal feeds run to it and whichever side is activated the dormant side acts as an earth for the low earthing current of the lamp making it flash. When you had half and half this could still happen, once you removed the rest of the 'normal' indicators then the normal earth path for the dash lamp is suficient to make the indicators come on, but there is no earth path for the lamp on the dash so it wont light. If i'm right then your indicators will work fine if you remove the lamp in the dash. If that proves right the easiest fix will most likely be 2 dash lamps or fit resistors to at least 2 of your indicators, one on each side.

If its a jap 400 then 112 mph is all you will get, chap next door had one breifly and he fitted a gold kph-mph converter. If you just take the clocks off the bike will restrict its self to 12500rpm in every gear so the clocks have to stay. I think there is a M-box if memory serves me right that fixes it in the loom somewhere or change the cdi for a uk/european one. Of course if its a uk bike then you just gotta learn to ride it, they need 120% commitment everywhere or they are a pain in the arse.

Oh thats naughty, how could anybody consider it.........

That wouldn't get an MOT with the testers near me, the last generous tester was nobled by the new computer system. Old boy into brit stuff. If you could yap for a bit about Enfield's you could have wheels missing and it would have passed.

Welcome I'm not sure what you are asking here, the std bore of the lanza (DT230) is 66.8mm (+/- o.05) and as such the piston will be very slightly less than that 66.7 (+/- 0.05) or so. Which is exactly what you have. It sounds to me that the bore is fine and unless you have some bad scoring or blow by which can be fixed with a set of rings,i can see no reason for not sticking it all back together.

Sorry havent a clue on the licence laws in Canada. Start a new thread in general and call it something along the lines of Reregistering a bike without documents/title. You get my meaning. Best of luck, need any info for the build just shout. Myself and OGOAB can cover most all of the bike and its variants.

It may look cool but your bike will ride like a race bike afterwards, all flatspots and hesitation untill you are really traveling. Open pods are for drag bikes that run at full chat all the time. If you must have the look then crack on but it will be at a price.

Concurr, give us the frame and or engine no and we can tell you properly but with the oil tank on the left and the round swingarm its most likely the 79.

Have a look at any of the larger components that are genuine Yam like engine covers, the reverse sides of the bodywork and there should be stamped or cast into the item a genuine Yamaha part number, from that any dealer will be able to date the part and as a result the bike.

A TDR 250, Imagine a DT125 with 50+BHP all of which comes between 6 and 10 thou, 100ish flat out, 30-35mpg not including 2 stroke and a riding position and quality suspention and handling balance that has the red mist decending before you have started the engine. Traffic beware. Downsides. It begs you to ride like a twat, its made from tinfoil and margerine tubs the exhausts cook your bollocks (they run under the seat) while the seat cuts you in half and the tank only holds 2 gallons. I average about 70miles to a tank, get more than 90, sell it. I absoloutly love it

A muse for you to think on....... It should be at the angle the OEM mount puts it at. Any variations on that are at your own risk. The first image you have posted is illegal anyway as there is no numberplate illumination. Personally the plate on my DT is mounted on the rear muddy and is at an 'interesting' angle. Its also a metal plate with stick on numbers, far easier to bend it straight on the trail than have to buy a new plastic one. Although it is strictly speaking not the approved format. It comes down to how far you want to bend the rules. I used to run a 600 with a race pipe and full tune. That again, i was playing the numbers banking on the main part of the plods being too nieve to twig the legality of the bike. The bike also looked stock pretty much and i sneaked past a couple of stop checks after the IOM on that alone. The majority of plods used to think the 6x4 plate was a standard M/C size, that unfortunately is not the case any more. The fact that they are getting sharper is the reason i flogged the 600 and bought one of the most antisocial, unenviromental and barely legal (in standard form) motorcycles made, a quote from Performance Bikes "Sir Cliff Richard could get points on one of these", is very accurate. I have left it pretty much stock, it is a very good feeling to ride past a plod knowing you are 100% the right side of the law. The (slightly) older DT is very different, but still largely legal because the C+U regs(MOT) are wide open before March 1981. Personally i dont go much for cosmetic crap, and F'ing with the numberplate these days is asking for a pull, i look more to discrete, subtle changes that make a real improvement to the riding of the bike. If you want it at an angle you are happier with then do it. But, the fact that somebody else has a worse example wont save you from a ticket if the plod feels you are taking the P or trying to dodge the NPR equipment or speed camera's. I doubt your alone in disliking the huge slab of plastic we are lumberd with and wanting to reduce the negative effect it has on the look of the bike.

No point he said it would be alonge soon, whatever a longe is. Maybe we could hav a pic of that?

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Can't say i can see a diference, only the last 2 letters of the part number change at CMSL which probably means colour as they look identical. See for yourself:- http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600rgrgc-1995_model10173/partslist/E-04.html http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600rfc-1994_model10057/partslist/E-08.html

First job, kick your mate in the bollocks. Second, the DT/RD motor is an absoloute dream compared to those gastly scoot engines that are stuck in the 60's. Are they still piston ported? Running hot and loosing coolant look like they are pretty well connected. As to the running, open the carb up and see whats gone on inside. Jerking around with the needle is not a good idea if its guess work. It may not have been corrected for the K+N in the first place. Or they may have had a main jet size given to them by K+N. What age is the bike, probably worth looking inside the top end. Just to make sure your 'mate' hasn't bust a ring. Can't see much being wrong as far as the crank goes, these motors are seriously strong. Sounds like you want to be changing the main jet on the carb and fixing a water leak, possibly re-set the oil pump while your there. Oldgitonabike might have a PDF manual around somewhere.

LMFAO

Resist resist, for god sake resist. I was told once 'those bits would look great polished' It never ends you will end up with forearms like popeye and a permanant odur'd autosol. Just the way it is is spot on, ride, wash, ride, with a bit of spit and polish for the paint.