Cynic

Don't know if this helps but this is the carb specs for a DT230. Carburettor Type / Manufactured / I.D. Mark: TM30x1 / MIKUNI / 4TP00 Main Jet: #165 M.J. Jet Needle, Clip Position: 6DHY40-4 J.N. Needle Jet: O-0 N.J. Pilot jet: #22.5 P.J. Pilot / Air Screw (Turn Out): 1-1/4 P.S. (A.S.) Float height / Fuel Level: 12.4-13.4/- F.H / F.L Idling Engine Speed: 1,300-1,400 r/min Thought if you looked at your specs and this it might help, i think (tho don't quote me) that going by the id the carb is a 30 mm. The bike being a bugger to start and running a bit hap hazard is a pointer towards the crank seals. Have you tried zaping all the possible leak areas around the carb with WD to see if it helps. A good drenching behind the coils can help to see if its the generator crank seal too.

But surely you will have to cut into the wiring to fit the led. The non polarised LED won't help as they have little or no resistance so will still more than likely light all the indicators. With a couple of crimps you would be able to remove the rectifiers at a later date if you needed to. Or, why not use 2 ordinary 12v led's. Just put 2 of em in the dash lamp housing. One for each circuit. If you were really cute with the soldering you could fit them into a bulb base, after removing the glass etc. That would be a really neat soloution.

Don't worry BWJ, My DT was banging nearly 18volts through my rectifier (oh missus) when the regulator packed up and that was fine. Battery wasn't so good mind .

Use a couple of rectifiers from a DT125mx or similar. Simple single phase rectification. Basically a big high capasity diode. Fit one in each feed then connect the outputs from the rectifiers together, connecting them to one connection on the dash lamp. Then earth the other wire to the dash lamp. The power cannot cross circuits anymore.Sorted. I know the DT is 6 volt but for a repeater lamp on the dash and the amount of time it will be on it should be fine. Cheap to. Edited to give clearer wiring inst.

Going old school here, the oil may be dropping out of the fuel and laying in the carb etc, try when you are on the very last bit home, closing the fuel tap so you run out of fuel as you stop. Then give the bike a shake before you turn on the fuel. I know modern oils are better than they used to be but we used to do it back in the day. Other than that, the symptoms suggest a minor air leak on the carb side of the motor somewhere, or, worse case a crank seal.

I cant help thinking how sterile bikes like that are, 30 odd years old and its entire life has been NOS'd and powdercoated away. I would be far more interested in the blue Galouise jobbie in the background.

No problem, its as certain as the sun coming up tommorow that without a battery and a sound electrical system the PV will be worse than useless. If its a field bike surely having the PV wide open for that genuine motocross kick in the arse is best.

Hi, you want to put your post in the workshop section, also. How dit it 'just stop', any funny noises, smoke, odd smells. There are plenty of us who can get you going again, we just need a bit more info.

Hmm, so i take it its a field bike? Probably the best option is to fix the powervalve in the open position. Give DTR125.co.uk a look they have lots of info on the powervalve and how you can work it.

Cheers for the feedback, glad its all sorted out.

Wow thats one over square engine, that would be a 72mm piston. Really cant say how much extra umph you would actually get. It would work best with a lot of revs but the DT's don't like revs???? Aircooled DT's have an issue with cooling too and a monster pot like that. Phweew Be an interesting exercise though.

At 68mm that could well be it, if the bore is the same as the uk aircooled then it starts at 66 and rises from there +2mm is the max i think. If the bore has survived ok then a light hone and a like for like piston would probably be a better bet. That will leave you with an oversize left rather than a scrap barrel if and when it fails again. One other tip, if the bike is at 6 or 7 oversises then there is probably an edge to the ports, you may have just had a ring clip the port and do the damage, thats why i asked where the damage was. To prevent it you need to get in there before its honed with a small file, or a dremil to put a slight chamfer on the ports.

I'm with OG here on the jeting but i have a couple questions, first off the best bet is to have the carb to bits to make sure of the jet settings as you would not beleve the range of possibles. And to be sure a fault with the carb wasn't the cause. Now the questions... What is the plug like? black? white? red dots or cracking on the electrode?. You say the bike took a chunk out of the piston, was it near the ring pegs? or possibly at the front of the piston? Or was it a 'hole' in the middle of the crown. The pod filters are not really all that effective, they let a lot of crap in as they are not very good with dust i understand from posts by some of our american members . You are actually better off with the proper airbox in most cases. The pipe will help though and the reeds will make the throttle a lot snappier and give a bit more oomph.

No pressure then, spose i'd better be warming the camera up.

The ignition system on DT125/175 runs totally separate to the battery. The battery is there as a reserve to light the idiot lights when the ig is switched on ( confusingly in this case) and the parking light when the engine is off, it doesent do a lot else. Apart from feeding the indicators. The ig switch (this varies between models and markets) or / and bar switches switch the charging and lighting coils output depending which is required, if the lights are on the battery doesent charge as the feed goes to the lighting circuit and rectified with the regulator bleeding off any surplus, if the lights are off the rectified voltage goes to the battery with the regulator tapping off the excess. If you want to run without a battery then you will have to run permanant lights or you will cook the regulator, and running permanant lights WILL cost you headlight bulbs as the spike from starting the motor can, (i've done it often enough) blow the headlight. Or obviously you could remove the charging/ lighting circuitry altogether and just run an ignition loom like a Motocross bike.

best of both.....

I'd be wary of powdercoating, when i was doing the landrover trials powder coat looks pretty when its new but once its damaged water can get under it and there is no real way to patch it pretty. It also wont stop it rotting out from the inside. Try galv, so long as you use the proper primer you can still paint it up nice.

+1^ It depends entirely on the bloke, sorry person that did it.

Thats it, we get all sorts, 30 degrees in the summer -10 in the winter. Nothing new there, Moscow, Poland etc are far more extreem. The difference is the fact that our weather changes so readily and so randomly. Everywhere else the locals know the rains will come at a certain point or the snow will start at a certain time. We haven't got a clue if were honest, the forcasts are nearer but they are still a best guess.

Been there my friend you have my sympathies, the little silver bit is just part of the ig and i would expect that to be had it now. You may be able to change the lock barrel but if it wont accept the key its difficult. As to the sterring, i take it you cant turn the bars to the left? The st lock is not really very strong and has more than likely been damaged. It sounds like a couple of oiks having an oppotunistic swipe at the bike. I would get yourself a big lock as they will in all likelyhood come back once its fixed. You need to have the lock etc to bits and work from there, is the steering lock on the headstock or part of the switch.

The unit on the carb most likely shuts the fuel off to the carb. A variation on the vac tap idea, when the ig is on fuel can flow when its off, well you know. It would blow the main ig circuit if it shorted. As to the running, have you any fuel filters in there, or try giving it half a minute for the float chamber to top up before you start it. It is still worth checking the choke system and any minor intake leaks. Hows the air filter?

Apt BWJ but i think this is deaper than the soldiers themselves. They are British citizens, Wooton Basett just happens to be where they return, and the people of the village are thankfully not afraid to show support for them. The demonstration is a symbolic up yours as far as i can see. If you did something like this in one of the middle east countries you would be lucky to live, they are not allowed to drink for crying out loud. But they will deny us respect for the dead.

so the battery is ok, bike is not very old. This may sound a bit odd but could you see HOW the fuse had gone. There are 3 real options: 1 Fuse element blown away = very high energy short circuit. 2 Fuse element blackend with a small break or visibly wilted, heat evident on the fuse plastics. = Very slow overload, typical of regulators etc gradually increacing current untill the fuse finaly fails. 3 Its just broke, no discolouring or heat effects = Most likely a duff fuse, more common than you think. Now you have it running pop a voltmeter across the battery terminals and see what you get, the manual will tell you but between 13 and 14 volts would be what i would expect at around 6thou rpm.

I think the biggest problem here is that a place in the country that welcoms the forces personel who have fallen for whatever reason is being used (if they are linked to extremists) as an attack on our morality. If we even suggested anything so distastefull to one of these extreemists beleifs the doors of parliment wouldn't open fast enough for the politicians to jump on the bandwagon and fight their cause. The personel and their kin are doing this because thats what they do. I have my own opinions on the fight, but i fully support our forces and wish the likes of Mr Brwon would. Forgive my spelling. I think it shows just how far gone our system is