Cynic

Cor bet that cramps your style GAS, 6000 miles between dealer trips. How can you pop out for a proper ride

With the engine off, try changing the gears by hand does the lever return to the central position or stay where it it. If it stays put try manually returning it to centre and try selecting 3rd by lifting the lever again. You should hear coresponding mechanical noises to show something is going on. Good or bad.

First job, change the plug. Dont clean it, replace it. And tell us what the old one looked like before you bin it if there is no improvement.

How do you figure someone thought that was a good idea. On the older stuff like mine its in the bottom of the tap.

Smoke and mirrors my friend..... You are entering a world of pain and... Oh shit wrong forum, Ahem. Cough Hi, Hello welcome along....

Carb cleaner only works if you are using it as a tool with others to clean a carb. It won't fix all your problems with a quick squirt (missus). You need something thin enough and stiff enough to go through the jet openings like a chimney sweeps brush. Inside electrical flex, or speaker wire come to that, are lots of fine copper strands. Twist a few together that are 30-40mm long and you have a perfect jet rodding tool. It isnt strong enough or coarse enough to damage the jets and drillings but it is stiff enough to clear out any muck in the jets. As to fuel filters there are a couple of possibles they should all be in the manual it depends if yamaha think you are clever enough to DIY it, or are you refering to a proper workshop manual like Haynes or Clymer they will be in there. Likely ones are a small metal filter in the carb fuel inlet, possibly a mesh one in the bottom of the fuel tap, also don't forget there may have been a previous owner sneaking an inline one in too.

Classic signs of some muck in the carb. Remove the carb, carefully remove the float bowl and just run something thing thin like a couple os strands of copper from kitchen flex(copper is as soft as brass and won't damage it), that works ok, through the main jet and the pilot jet then re assemble. Don't be tempted to mess otherwise that should sort you out. Edit: Before you have the carb off, just check the fuel delivery,any filters etc, the first coment about bad starting could be slow fuel delivery and it needs time to prime everything up.

From a personall point of view i think its a daft idea, but acerbis do make plastic tanks for the YZ of the same year. Could be worth a look.

Easy ride 50mph roads on your 70mph bike. It will seem bloody fast then. For what its worth anybody can ride fast in a straight line and any bike will feel slow doing it. The most effective tuning you can do is to you. I've said it before, some proper kit and some proper tuition on how to RIDE a bike will make you the fastest kid on the block. I saw with my own eyes a police BMW out ride a fireblade on an observed ride with the police (I was just holding on). He never crossed the centre line and stayed around the speed limits. But the cornerspeed he carried through proper road position an observation was immence. No silly lean angles, no desperate braking just fast smooth progress. I have conciously incorperated all of what he had to say into my riding.

Plugs and 2 strokes, bit like men and women can't live with. Can't live without. They can go in a heartbeat change em regular, some may say just like their women . Be worth a resistance check on the coil lead. Even check how good the spark is. Did you check the gap and condition of the old plugs, aside from the oil.

Most important tool in the fault finding box, an open mind.

Nice one, so we were right that it wouldn't go because of the current drain. Just the cause we were out on. Glad its sorted.

In most cases a std air filter housing helps the bike perform at its best. Pod filters will work but really need jetting to suit and then are affected by the weather far more. Obviously when it rains it gets wet. And tbh only really suit racers as they work best at WOT, well thats from Richard the main man at Towcester Tuning Services, google em. I would have thought you could get something for less from a breakers.

Right here my man, post up the engine number or the first 6-8 digits if you are security minded and you will have your answer. There are a couple of DT250/400 fans on here who can tell you everything.

The next place to check would be battery and starter motor connections.

Bloke i work with is on his third cb250, rides it to work all year. It does around 90odd to the gallon everything's cheap and they take the old one PX every 12 months, no mot, no or very cheap Honda insurance, little servicing etc. His motorcycling costs him peanuts. To be fair he keeps it in very good nick, you very rarely see it in a condition you could call dirty. Thats the type of person i would think its aimed at, if it came to the UK. Its not though, don't forget the jap licence laws make our test look like a ride round the block. 400cc is the most many can hope to get to, added to that a blanket 112mph maximum and congested streets. 70's cool suddenly gets a bit more important.

Have you tried charging the battery. It may have enough power to turn it over but not actually fire, then when you release the button the motor is spinning fast enough for it to catch. Well it would be my first point to look at. Welcome to the club.

Personally i would replace the rad. If it fails you could loose the motor, especially if it goes on a fast stretch it can dump all its coolant in seconds and sieze. Any bike will protest if its left to idle for 15 minutes, it is the airflow from the bike moving that cools everything down. Newer stuff has fans, yours may have had one could be worth checking. My TDR heats up readily enough in traffic, can't say i have ever left it running for 15minutes though. Can't imagine thats good for any 2 stroke. I suppose it shows your motor is running pretty good now. I know the DT would never idle for that long without doing a plug. I wouldn't fancy it with the TDR.

I take it you have physically swapped the coil pack and leads around so the pack from 1+3 is running 2+4 and vice versa to see if the problem changes over and 2and 4 become the problem. My other question. Does the bike have a separate trigger for each coil, some do and i don't know if this bike has. The coil may be working fine but the pulse coil triggering it may be playing up. Love the paint job, white frame is a nice too, works really well.

PM sent. On a completely pointless note- one thousand posts dadaaaaaaaa

They do from 78 on though, thats when the 250 changed to cdi isn't it?

I agree with merv. If its a bit put in to blank off 6th gear, then the rest of the 6speed box must be stock. Selector drum the lot. I would think, thinking about the way the 6 speed box works on the DT that it would be the peg wheel that controls the selector drum basically missing a peg. Well that strikes me as the easiest.

It is not normal in any way. The whole point of fork SEALS is they do just that seal. If there is ANY fluid leaking then they have been fitted incorectly, have been damaged or there is a problem with the surface of the fork tube, such as rust pitted. Oh, welcome to the nuthouse......

Be worth noting what the 'something off a honda' was so you can get more and what Honda it came from. Also post it on here, you never know there may be another TW owner with similar issues.

Top gun