Cynic

Posting your mobile number in open forum is not a good move it can be abused. Use the PM system instead.

The old sweats have probably been using this for years but i was really strugling getting my fork seals to part company with the fork lowers. I had tried levers and various degrees of swearing when my eyes fell upon my heat gun. Worked for the crank seals, goto be worth a try. Bingo got the top of the leg really hot (it was boiling the wd i'd tried as a releasing agent). In with a 'modified' screwdriver and out they popped nice as you like. Thought i'd put it up, may help somebody out.

I suppose the only way to get one of these to full power would be to use the pre98 PVservo, cdi and modify a post 98 loom to suit. With a good pipe and the 240 main you should be looking at proper power. Maybe even use a pre 98 pot and head too as there may be different compression or porting too. Bit drastic for OG and 2wheels tho.

As far as insurance goes i use CIA for mine, 160 quid fully comp with 100quid excess covers both of em. They are not the absoloute cheapest but i feel they are the best VFM.

Probably the seller jumping on the 'classic resto' bandwagon. He is just trying to talk up the price. Any 25 year old bike is a rarity these days but unfortunately it has precicely cock all to do with the value of the bike. Condition is everything. Even the milage looses its hold at that age. Its reached the point in its life where its worth a ton maybe as a scrapper to between 5oo and a grand tidy and ready to ride. Unless its properly mint of course then its worth what someone is willing to pay. The one thing you can say buying a bike at that age, so long as the bike is looked after it will never loose money and it should increace over time.

hop off, run along side the bike and see which burns your hand the least... She may just be THAT good.

Which carb does the fuel tap vac line come from?, got a scottoiler?. Does that connect to the duff cyl. Small vac leak in there would kill snap throttle openings but would be fine nice and steady. May even stay hidden/ sealed till it gets warmed up? My suzuki did exactly what you are describing when one of the rubber caps for the vac take offs dissapeared. Never did figure where that went . When was the last time the carbs were balanced?, thats a possible too while we are collectively scratching our heads. Lastly is it always the SAME cyl that dies out or is it random.

Hmm i wonder if it pulses, the most common fix i've found that can be reasonably trusted (a couple of the German sites agree to although the translations aren't great)says remove it from the spedo housing but don't cut anything. Just get it out the way in the headlight fairing somewhere.

Don't know the bike myself i'm afraid but i'm sure there will be someone can help.

Have a look at this elec drwg from Dewpy's clicky. Item 9 being the cdi its shows the connection to the reed sw everybody gets so excited about. Its shown in its idle state, or should be according to electrical drawing convention. Therefore when the bike hits whatever speed the switch is sensitive to, it will make the connection and apparently retard the PV. I cannot see the benefits of earthing it though. You would have to know the intermal workings to determine that for certain. More importantly if you get it arse about face and earth the wrong connection you could cap you pv in all gears. Sorry its a bit big.

Er, don't mean to be picky but an 02plate what exactly?

Look at this, what a load of tat. Someone was flogging this stuff last year for about 15quid and it didn't shift then. If you have even the vaguest idea of how the suspention works on a DT125/75 Or pretty much any 80's trailee)you will know this wont improve the travel. But rushing people 30 odd quid for a couple of bolts and some spacers (plus postage!) you can make in your garage is just rude. As far as the rear shock goes just re drill the mount on the frame cost 0p. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-DT175-DT175E-DT125-DT125MX-DT175MX-Jack-up-Kit_W0QQitemZ120528095426QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item1c1008c8c2 These profiteering pirates should crawl back under the rock they come from. Ahhhh, better.

Sorry bad discription, they had the provision in the loom for the PV but no PV controller (thats what plugs into the CDI) or the servo and pulley system. But they have changed the cdi after 99 as that model has the PV and to retro fit the old cdi, you will also need the old controller and i believe the servo etc from the pre98 bikes. I seem to recall JimR was good with PV stuff. Is he still on?

So knocking out the connection to the reed switch and a pipe should have you flying. There is another restriction in the pipe oon the 'UP' section of the expantion chamber and crucially the stinger at the back of the exp chamber will be tuned to work best with 12hp so a good pipe will probably in all be a better option. Are we keeping all the cast offs for any possible return to std. And i totally agree on the clocks, the KPH clock on my TDR lasted less than a tank of gas before i swapped it over. Surely there must be 2nd hand ones about for your DT?

Sort of, i've been looking into this the tricky bit is for that to work you need the entire ig/powervalve electrics and all the black boxes to suit for the pre98 stuff to work. And as far as it goes its a pretty good angle as the pre 98 bikes didnt have any powervalve electrics. That was the primary restriction. So fit the kit and hey whoopsie around 22-24hp. Obviously you need jetting,pipe,filter etc too. The 2003 unfortunately has the PV fitted and working as it should to smooth the power out. Trouble is the carb/exhaust combo with some PV tweaks is what has brought the bike down to 12hp. But unlike the older stuff you can't just stroll into your yam dealer with 3-400 quid and take away all the parts you need for full power. I have heard stories of cutting one of the cdi wires but i think that is just a variation on the reed switch in the spedometer. Just flipping the valve isn't any good either as that makes it a pig to ride. I would say OG just wants some more poke rather than a ragged race thing and as such as a collective i don't see why we cant sort out some proper correct stuff to add to Ryan09's sticky.

I suppose while the exhaust is off now would be a good time to check out the valve opperation. It should do a full cycle as a cleaning/center opperation when you switch the ig on. With the exhaust off you can see if it follows a full arc. Strategic use of the ig switch and you should be able to check the valve travels fully open and back to 'closed'. Other than that this is worth a read. http://www.dtr125.net/tuningnewer.htm I still think there is more in them. I can't see those mods giving the 10-12HP that the bikes loose in restricted form.

I've been looking into this OG and so far as i have found the main restriction apart from the exhaust is the PV servo pulleys and cable arrangement. In restricted form you don't get fully open, japaneese market parts (ie unrestricted)is the way to go apparently. I haven't been able to confirm this yet so it may be just internet rumour. To go with the PV change there is a minor re jetting needed to cope with full chat. Again not confirmed but back in the day we used to stick 240 mains in TZR's when we flipped the valves or they cooked and siezed at full chat. I'll keep digging.

Figures, i said they had all sorts of plumbing to make it all automatic. Glad to hear its running again.

Any penetrating oil will do, diesel is also an option. I take it this is just to get the pistons moving to strip it, or is it to see if she will start? Oh yeah, wlcome to the club.

So failing to display is still the offence here because the starting poster said there was NO disk. So not legal. Funny how a one poster has got a thread going this far.

Personally i think its brilliant, the nearest post office to me is open for a random 3 minutes sometime between Monday and Friday excluding, Wed af noon, Tues Af noon and if the post is heavy any time in between because its the postie who mans the post office. So doing it online is bloody marvelous, generally turns up day or two later as well.

So, are you turning the idle speed up and down with the mixture screw or the idle speed screw. Confusing, one corrects the mixture, one controls the resting height of the slide. You should be able to blend these together to get the idle, set rpm, run air screw in and out stopping at peak rpm and winding the revs down to what you are after. If not then probably there is a small air leak. I wouldn't jump at crank seals as they generally make it run hot and a complete bast4rd to start, i know my DT was when they went.

Absoloutly not i'd go to the post office.

If the price of seals and pistons ( they may need looking at too) is anything like my old suzuki it'll just as likely be cheaper to scan evil-bay for some ready sorted replacement caliper(s)

Why thank you all. Said to the wife i'm only a year from my mid life crisis, she said, and they were HER words i'm quoting. "isn't that when you get your hair bleached and start shagging teenagers" 365days and counting.......