Cynic

Have you tried swaping the stator plates across, so the 89 engine has the stator and flywheel from the earlier engine. They will in all likelyhood swap straight over. Secondly, the carb you tried, was it an 89 carb or an 85, you should check the differences they can be quite remarkable. As an example a 79DT175 has a 130 main. The following year it increaced to 160 just on the strength of a different air filter design that was less restrictive.

This any good to you? Basic jobbie's but yours would be somewhere between 99 and 180 quid. (You need to contact them for a quote) According to the Hagon website your bike shares its shock with the 91on 600 divvy. Betor shocks

The newer DT's differ from the older bikes in that the battery has to be charged for them to start, the clean plug will help. Other than that it should go.

So, is the 2 stroke pump disconnected? If the bike has had a full tank of just fuel through it it should be dead, siezed tighter than a ducks arse? MX is just a model code, they are refered to as MX's to separate them from the twin shock version thats all. Nothing to do with it being a Motocrosser. There is a little confusion here on my part. Are you talking about a straight EP80 gear oil? Like the stuff that goes in Landrover axles?

Welcome, interesting questions. First off the 2 stroke. The bike would originally have had a pump, people remove them for some unknown reason i can never fathom. If you pull off the side covers (they are rubber/plastic so wont break) you should find the oil tank. On a 79 it could be on the right or the left hand side. If the pumps working fine you can run on pump gas. ( See i speak Americano ) What is the sw arm like square or round steel? Better still a chassis/frame number. The oily bits in the box want a straight std 10/30 engine oil. Thats straight out the manual. You can check yourself its written with the quantity by the gearbox oil filler on the right side of the engine, above the base of the kick start. Need a bit more detail for the last bit, 'top rear of the bike' is a bit too ambiguous, any bike will start to leak gas leant over a long way with the engine off, more than about 30degrees will have it coming from the overflow without the cornering forces keeping it in there. So laying it down will have fuel everywhere. The gearboxes are pretty good as far as leaking goes, i would say the leak on the left side could be the 2 stroke tank. Or again if you could give some more accurate info on where its coming from. We can probably narrow it down some.

Its more likely a carb issue, you have actually dropped from 175 (ish) cc to 125 cc so if the carb was set for the big bore the engine will be rich on an epic scale. Like running on full choke full time. The busted ring won't help mind.

When you say new std parts, were the old ones standard?, or the same spec? Please tell me you have tried a different (known good) plug.

TBH all you will really get from a diferent exhaust is a bit of noise. I've said before a 4 stroke 125 is what it is. Incredibly reliable, very good on fuel but ultimately not very tweakable. Spend your money on kit and or riding lessons to see just how quick you can actually ride the bike.

Honest answer to the question......If you want a bike that is good for off road work then TBH leave the bike alone apart from a good set of tyres and a thoughrough service. People like Oldgitonabike and Vez are more qualified than me on making them go, as they have done it to their bikes. As to tyres, horrible issue and everyone has their favourites. I have brigestone trail wings on mine they are a bit old hat but i like how they work ok in anything dirt wise. They are a bit limited on tarmac but not massively. You are riding a dirt bike at the end of the day. The best bit of advice i can give as regard wheelies is ignore your friend, forget the sprocket issue. I have seen with my own eyes a Harley sportster wheelied through the first 2 and some of third gear. Wheelies are entirely about technique. Enjoy.....

Yamaha no question, the Kwak is a pain in the arse to de restrict properly, the front brake is crap and eats disc's and pads like sweeties add to that the nickersil barrel, one sieze and its had it. Or more importantly when the bore is done at around 10-12 thou you may need to replace/replate the barrel as i don't believe there are oversizes. As for the YZF, if you want pretty then crack on. 4stroke 125's are ok for commuting and such but if you want it to light your fire you really need a 2 stroke at this capacity. Much more bang for your buck, spend the money you save wisely on the DT and you will have a winner. Edit: I will admit to being a fan of the DT, i've had one for 20 odd years, had the 50 too and my present ride is a TDR250, the ultimate road DT if ever there was such an animal. I don't think i'm alone on here with vote's for the DT though.

Yeah, i'm not saying the van driver wasn't to blame. The actual accident was entirely his fault, for all we know there is an accident up ahead and it could have been an ambulance that got hit. The trouble is the van driver just has to fill in a form, he may get a minor bolloking for due care and attention and a couple of points but thats it, its not even his van. The rider has a smashed bike, smashed kit and some bumps and bruises to boot. Thing is if you watch the video the guy on the bike clocks the van moving (around 14 sec), brakes but doesent really brake hard or change direction. Classic case of target fixation. I've done it and i'm sure many others have. There are lots of if's and buts here. Ultimately it needn't have happend. One mirror check from the van and a little more experience on the riders part and it would just have been the rider giving the van the bird for being a twat. Normal day then

Yep i agree, the 2 lanes are on the opposite side so that is technically dual carriageway,overtake at your liesure/discretion the other is a broken white line on the left of the centre so acting like a normal centre lane with overtaking permitted if the other carriageway is clear. Personally i think they are both in the wrong. I have come close to that type of accident myself once or twice and now make a point of being certain of the other vehicle movements. Personally i think he was not riding defensively enough for the situation. The motorcyclist had escape room, he should have been treating each vehicle as a hazard rather than the colum of vehicles as an inconvenience. He had relaxed and assumed everybody would tow the line like sheep. He was totally unprepared for the van or any of the vehicles to do something stupid. In my opinion that is his primary error. All through my HGV training the cantankerous old bugger that gave me lessons kept on about expecting the unexpected and what if. I used to say no body would be that stupid. After 10 years of trucks i know different, the only thing you can be certain of is that someone will be that stupid. So you have to drive expecting it.

So, you have fitted the 170kit and now the clutch is slipping? The clutch should just about handle it if it is in good nick, make sure it is properly adjusted so it isn't holding the clutch open and causing the slip. If everything is adjusted ok then you will have to strip and check the clutch. If it has been slipping for a while then you will most likely need to replace the friction AND the metal plates as the metal plates warp very easily(personal experience), its worth changing them out to get the best from the big bore. Finally with the new clutch a set of heavy duty springs will really help. Good luck..

Thats what i mean, by all means buy a new one, but how many posts are there on here about how ace their brand new YZF is but how do i make it go? When i was 17 it didn't matter what it looked like it was how fast it went simple, then the powervalve bikes appeared and their was a new god . If you are going to ruin it to make it fast save a couple of grand (litterally these days) and get an old stoker. It don't matter what you do to a YZF it will never catch a properly sorted TZR.

Your the type of rider i can understand buying a new bike, because you know what you wantand with the mileage your doing you will get the best from it without doubt. Its the kids i'm aiming at who buy the latest rocket lookalike brand new, then trot out the "i don't know whats been done to it" reason for having a new one. Then proceed to butcher it with tuppeny hapney spanners for minute increaces in performance then flog it when the get their test for peanuts. Just makes better sense if you are buying a bike to de restrict to buy one that is easy to restrict and common so parts are cheap, you can get a tzr upto around 230cc if you don't mind bending the rules a little and doing the work.

Unless your really keen on originality Mr Fastner do packs with all sorts in, i bought a tub of various stainless nuts and bolts for 25 quid that has done quite a lot of the bike, definitely all the corroded stuff around the engine, sw arm and such.

CT1-112928, ok Looking at this you could have a CT3 cant see them making 12000 of em though. I'll see if i can't track down some better details. CT1 Year: 1971 CT1-000101 CT1B Year: 1970 CT1-010101 CT1C Year: 1971 CT1-200101/CT1-032101 CT2 Year: 1972 CT1-065101 CT3 Year: 1973 CT1-100101

Yep gets right up my nose, the only flag we can't fly is our own in case we upset someone. Wankers, what about upseting our own people. St Andrews day is a big knees up in Scotland, same with St Patrics day. Big party everything goes green big celebration by everyone remotely Irish no matter how tenuous. Numerous races and beliefs walk around this country displaying their faith and customs proudly. I put my English flag up in the back of my cab this morning, hadn't finished my paperwork before i had to take it down (Till i was out of the gate).

Kids never understand the value of stealth. Fast as F but looking and sounding stock used to be my aim whenever possible at 17. Let the plods nick the flash lads. Then really rub it in by blasting past on your 'stocker'.

Here you go, i'm not saying your motor is 1967 but this link will take you to a picture of one, a 1967 (Y)R1 350 Yamaha R1 350 I'd be looking at what its worth first. Even wrecked i bet it would pay for a far better motor to build a bike round. It will cost a packet to do up as well, everything will be expensive. Crikey DT175 parts are getting tricky to drag up and they are like belly button fluff compared to these.

On a 72 bike the designation CT1 or CT2 actually refers to the engine, CT1 has an engine with 5 transfer ports with no reeds and the CT2and CT3 has 7 with reeds. Although people used to fit the reedblock and carb from the 7 port engine. Its been on here a few times. Problem being they all start with CT1 for the 175 in the chassis/engine prefix as far as i'm aware up to around 75/76 so you need to look more closely at the actual engine/frame number. If you post the engine number, less the last 3 or 4 digits then we should be able to narrow it down for you. Oh and welcome to the mad house.....

Fellow on here called Vez will know better (i'm more aircooled on these)but it sounds like the clutch cover gasket has failed somehow, or the cover has cracked, its not a hard job to remove to inspect provided the screws play ball.

Yep, mate of mine did exactly the same. Fitted micron, fafed about posing for a bit then sold it and cut down the std baffle. RXS100's don't give power up easy.

So its the outer case joint thats leaking. Thats easier, sort of. You say there is plenty of oil in there, thats my point HOW much oil is in there. 2strokes don't need much gearbox oil. There shouldn't be enough oil in there to leak from that far up the case.

So you are saying oil came out the TOP. Next immediate question, how much 'oil' is in the gearbox. You should only have enough oil in there to splash the gears, its only 5/600ml. I don't know exactly. More importantly thats metal to matal with a liquid gasket joint. Its a pretty good seal and i would be very surprised if anything came out. Are you sure its not coming from the breather or dripping onto the top case from the carb maybe?