Cynic

? So you haven't looked on the bottom lhs of the barrel where its stamped then?

The profile deatails with what bike they ride, interests etc. If thats blank i rarely take any notice of the rest of the post. Some of the replies can take a while to sort out. I do think the 3 headings work tbh. You can gob off in yamby's without worrying about language and being PC too much as it says in the title your giving it large. The other 2 do overlap but they do sort the topics out.

I find the profile generally gets filled out by the more enthusiastic newbies, we are not talking a lot here are we.

Man sat watching telly. Missus is doing one of them silly word quizzes. Man,' Here you go then give me a sentance that will make me really happy and really unhappy all at once, see if all that wordplay is doing any good' She looks up calm as you like, looks him straight in the eye and says 'You can screw far longer than your brothers'

And you know you have really screwed it up when you ask them how's it going and you get 'oh nothing' as the answer...(shudder)

I think a lot of them still start on crossers. Its where they learn to really let the tail hang..

Its gone there was only an hour or so left when i posted. I still can't help thinking that a rebuild is the way to go. Its all labour and as some of the other forums you've been on have said (copy and paste is handy eh) maybe a couple of hundred in parts. Labour rates to yourself are very competitive, even if it takes 3 times as long as a garage. Speaking from whoppingly expensive experience with 2 dud v8 engines in my old landy both proposing to be great and costing the best part of 500 apiece. Second hand, even apparently rebuilt WITH RECEIPTS is worthless. Do you want to be back here again in 6 - 12 months. You have said its your ONLY transport, my landy was at the time i lost 2 days of work fixing it. With some planning a little research and a couple of days off if need be you can have a bike you can depend on. You have a tidy 8 year old bike, i have one at nearly 30 and the 'new' one is chasing 23 and has a BAAAAAD reputation for turining its guts to shrapnel at the drop of a hat. The cat is a very solid reliable bike and if some idiot had ridden it properly you would be laughing but they didn't. So you have a problem that wants a solution. Forgive me being very direct here but you can either throw out several hundred quid and be no better off, except spending the time swapping the motor out. Or you could step up and fix the bloody thing. One thing for certain its not going to get better and the bits of junk that come off that gear are going to be causing lots of wear in the presently good stuff. And having experienced a siezed box i reccomend a prompt decision.

No woriies my friend, welcome, there are quite a lot of us have or have had one of the 175's be it DT or CT so if you need any help just shout.

Ouch, the silver lining though is its a bike worth putting the effort into. The engine will be a tricky one to find. There is one on the bay as we speak for under 150. Just wondering if a fazer engine would go in with a top end swap, you know cams and such.

out of curiosity, whats the mileage? and overall condition?

I would see whats out there engine wise. Don't commit just see whats there. Then think on this, you will get 3 months warranty tops. The second gear may well run for 6 or 12 months hell 3 years before it fails it may never, but as its struggling now you are obviously enjoying the engines performance. Its not an option to have a dealer do it as you may as well buy another bike as it will cost less. I'm sure there will be people on here who are better placed on the internals of a pussycat engine. Have you done a search to see if there is a specific owners forum for them. As i said i would be pulling it apart but thats me.

Unlucky, if you had dived in before you bought it...... Hindsight eh ? Anyway let me be the first to welcome you to the nutho.. . forum . You may have your work cut out tracking down an engine as the gear issue is a bit of a stinker with these. It also means the motors will most likely attract a premium. The worst bit, it comes to them all in time. The dearest bit of the problem is labour. As the motor is ok bar the gear issue i would be inclined to have a go at fixing it. Its fcuked anyway so no loss if you really screw it up. You said you are happy to take the motor out so your not scared of the spanners. Whats a gasket set going to cost you (relative). If you can fix it and scoop up a few extras in the process like a bore and some new cams maybe a clutch then you will have a motor good for another 40thou. I think it wouldn't cost you the price of another motor either and it would be one you could trust. Just my opinion like, and its exactly what i've done with my Land rover. Throwing out an engine without pulling it to bits for a lookie see is a crime.

Can't speak for the mez, only used em on tidlers,the old 50 pence pattern cant remember the name of em. The bridgestone pilot road 2's on the other hand were peg grindingly good on my old 600.

Hello hello, where have you been hiding Jim?

Flynn

The day you sit in front of the prospective father in law when he KNOWS by that time you have travelled the road most sacred and you have to look him square in the eye is one of the real tests of your metal.

I think your fibbing, at 20 if you haven't already they must be ready to pop, or, Princess palm and her 5 daughters.......eh?

Trip

And were quietly hoping you haven't already..... Cos if we found out.......

+1 on that, it also allows you to use 2 smaller units if you have difficulty finding the right one.

They are grown in a secret laboratory on the dark side of the moon, 'Shine on you crazy........' Either that or their dad has a few bob and some handy contacts, aka Leon Haslam. The younger lads like Bradly have come from race schools a bit like footballers coming from local schoolboy teams. Talent scout spots their ,well, talent and keeps an eye on them.

Proper traffic cops, spending the time i do on our highways and byways and seeing the amount of blood and scrap they witness i think they are pretty tolerant tbh. The townies i will agree are just plods who want to stay in a nice warm car with a coffee intead of walking with the muggles. And as gas said their driving is rubbish considering what they represent.

There was someone on recently with the same issue. I would imagine, it is EFi yes? that the ambient temp sensor that will be needed to allow the bike to decide if choke is needed may be going out of range in strong sun, as in the cdi is trying to lean the system right out so it will start without choking the tree huggers.

Get somebody along the street to get one just like yours and then have more security than they do. Sound calous? Damn right but its what each and every one of us do when we lock up, personally i have 2 locks on the garage a D lock and a disk lock for out and about and a BF chain. I'm thinking of a ground anchor for the TDR as its a bit of a talking point as the local rif raf have realised what it is. The best you can do is make it a bigger pain in the arse to steal than the next mans. Electronic stuff is a waste, data tag means you get some of it back and trackers mean its nicked twice, once they know its tracked they nick it a different way. There are only so many places to put a tracker. The ONLY reliable way to save you bike being nicked is to lock it to a big solid lump of something with a BF chain.

Real easy if you know even a little bit. Drain the oil, you can do it without but if the cluch is burning then the oil will have cr@p in it anyway. Take off the rh crancase cover. Great big round thing is your clutch, undo the 5 bolts in the outer plate, much as a screwdriver is tempting use a spanner as they are VERY soft. As you undo them you will loosen the springs. Dont worry they won't ping off by the time the bolts are loose the springs will be loose too. Take out the clutch pack and make a note of the order of the plates. You will have plain (metal) plates and friction ( have little strips of friction material on them) plates. Check the metal plates if they have blue'd ,as obvious as it sounds their buggerd, and use a sheet of glass to make sure they are dead flat. That means out less than a couple of tho. Check the slots in the basket where the plates run if there is any ridges clean them up with a swiss file to take off any ridges. Note, The new friction plates may need soaking in oil first. Pop it all back together, assembaly is literally the removal in reverse. Dont hammer it for the first couple of miles. Job done, you may get a bit more from the old clutch with some stronger springs possibly, but false economy unless you are selling it on. Specs Friction plate thickness, .1181 in Plain plate thickness ..0472in Plain plate warpage 0 Spring free length 1.2402in Edit: couple of extra points, the metal (plain) plates rarely if ever come with a 'clutch' sometimes its just the friction plates alone. If it were me I'd change the plain plates too as they are often enough the cause of a clutch slipping cos they are not flat anymore. They get hot warp more heat more warp etc. You will have to order the crankcase gasket and the springs too. STD / heavy duty springs?up to you make no real difference on a DT if the clutch is in good nick.