Cynic

The only minus point is somebody in the past decided to colour match the wheels? They should be gold. Otherwise it can be described as 'original unrestored condition'.I keep thinking on having the wheels re-built with the gold anodised rims and stainless spokes. One day i'll do it, its just i'm terrible at taking ages to do stuff for myself. I can work miracles for others but leave myself short all the time. As it is i can ride it and the wheels will be done one day.

You know i would love a pint of whatever the fellow was drinking that dreamed that up. I had to help out the mot man a while back as he was going to fail it for the lights not working. Looked at me like i was taking the piss when i ignored the on off switch and used the key He did laugh afterwards.....

Glad to help, pictures may still help with the identification, there were local differences that went to the american market that we didnt see. Most notably in the gearbox area. Good luck with it.

open

Casey

Tomb

Fancy a drink darlin No thank you i tried it once and didn't like it. Oh, ows about a twirl on the dance floor No thank you i tried it once and didn't like it. My daughter is a very good dancer though. Only the one kid then? I know its old but i have been hearing it on the radio this week on one of Alex Licester's radio trail's and it makes me chuckle every time. Big up the Carry on films.

Can't see many people posting in the 'i'm a selfish sod who is on the take' section. I put a link to this topic in a reply to a new member and he just hadnt twigged to the forum 'etique'. Whole paragraph on his next post. Nice bloke as far as i can see. I'm going to make it part of my sig i think.

One tent for Blackhat, one for the bike. Simple. Taking a matress for the van to kip on is going a bit far though

Normall use for 30years without any cleaning as its a horrible job. 2 strokes like to work hard so when they plod through traffic they oil up as the quantity of oil is a little more than it needs at plodding speeds hense oil in the pipe. Have you seen the oven cleaners where you put all the stuff in a special bag, add the goo and shake it up every 20 mins or so for a couple of hours. Get a couple (they are peanuts) plug one wnd of the pipe securely and stick the goo in the other end. Cover that end up securely then leave for a good while shaking it up every couple of hours. I did mine in the afternoon then rinsed it out the following afternoon. Be carefull as its incredibly strong but the pipe comes up a treat.

I hope there is at least one, not sure on the camping side of things but at the moment its looking good.

HA no i didnt mean open a new topic its just there has been a raft of one posters turning up recently and it gets a bit tedious as they invariably ask the same stuff. This one of yours is a bit different but its nice to have a bit of background to flesh out the bones if you like. And you never know there may be someone just round the block in the same boat. I have been to members houses to help them out with parts or info. Last one was a 100mile round trip. Looks a tidy bike, the later front muddy looks a little odd though, and the solderd coil don't fancy your chances of that being much good). The hear from the solder will have done the insulation all over the place. If we are talking 74 that will be a DT175A frame/chassis number 433-000101 onwards For that the coil res are as follows:- Ignition source coil 2.1ohm Primary ig coil 1.7ohm Secondary ig coil 6.0ohm Plug is a NGK B8ES or equivalent gapped at 0.02 to 0.024in with a 5Kohm resisted cap. Should help to get her running. Oh the funky diode thing is in the charging circuit to stop the battery copping ac voltage that they are none too keen on, it makes sure the battery gets a rudimentary form of DC to charge it.

Yes.

For now i think a link to this thread might spark the fire of understanding.... Not everybody is a spotty oik expecting the world on a plate. There may be people who have been lurking in the sidelines for a while and havent realised we didn't even know they were there. 'The quiet bloke at the bar week on week' if i may expand Ttask's analogy slightly.

Whoa you got a bit to do there. I think the diode looking thing you are looking at is the condenser, which confusingly is actually just a capasitor. It acts like a baffle to prevent sparking at the points but if it fails it will kill the spark stone dead, ALWAYS replace it when you change the points. As to the coils a picture will be most helpfull as there are a couple of diffent modles with slightly different colours, it doesent vary much but it could really screw your results up for the sake of being certain. Also, in your next post. Please introduce yourself We don't bite, well not hard anyway........

A 72/73 DT is actually a CT. They changed it about to bring it in line with the success of the 250cc DT1 so the CT became the DT and the AT series was dropped. The only real difference between the AT and CT was the fact that the engines had different barrels and carbs. The AT had 5 ports and no reeds. The CT had 7 and reed controlled induction giving a little bit more power but a much more driveable engine. Most confusingly they had CT1 prefixes up to 1974 early 75 in some cases. I don't suppose any of that helped did it.

Go out, fill the tank, and ride the balls off it till you run out of fuel. Chances are it will run great or die. But it will settle it. I recon its full of shit. I've had 2 2strokes turn into smoke machines the first time they get ridden hard. Did neither of em any harm.

OOps, ripping all the wiring out will save nothing. The only electronics on a DT are the ones that make it run. Battery, if its a PV, must have. CDI, PV servo both must have's All the flywheel gear, Gotta have it. You will save having a couple of lights hanging off the bike. Thats all.

Why re-start the topic?

Running bad when you bought it, how long ago? Crank seals invariably make the bike a cow to start. Have you checked the airbox for moisture/blockage/dirtyfilter and the exhaust to see just how much junk is inside. If this little YB has spent its life chugging through traffic and you have just scared it to death with a 50mile blast all of the above is likely.

No they wont fit and they would look ridiculous if you made them fit. They would be too long by around a foot. Secondly with the shape of modern off road bikes the forks are as narrow as possible and the tank is cut round them. Not the DT. The position of the forks on the yolks is also very different. I put DTR forks on a 81 DT175, just a head bearing swap, (any bearing company will do you taperd roller bearings in a bewildering amount of sizes) and some work on the lock stops. It ruined the handling, the steering lock was pants and the bike just looked odd. Like bolting wire wheels to a Lamboghini Giardo. You could maybe make the legs from a comparable road bike work but then the disk brake will be no better than the drum. Sorry to be negative, if you really want it to work you will need some skilled work to do it. Like getting lugs welded to your legs and then using a later hub/wheel/disk combo.

Can't really help more, i'll keep at the numbers as i like to track the oddities down but you have the CT prefix with the AT number stream. By no means impossible but does complicate things. Any chance of some pictures?

Incorrect, the prefix code on the engine and frame number coverd the: CT1 CT2 CT3C CT3 These were produced from 68 through to 73/4. As i said the numbers don't tally at the moment there should be a zero up front for the CT1's. The AT1's started with those numbers which is what makes it confusing. Confirmation of the number, and the number of numbers(?) as well as the colour (was year/model specific back then) would help no end. Wonder if and when they will be back.......

Must resist too many gags