Cynic

Thinks dewps is the man to speak to for a defintite answer..

That is great, means the plug, cap, coil and the wires envolved are ok so they can be left for now. Next, connect the orange wire back up and look at the cdi connections again. There will be a black and white, more a black with a white tracer. Disconnect it. Reasons in PM Do you get anything when you kick it over?

? The mixture screws only control a small part of the process, if you are at altitude then maybe lean her off with a smaller jet but going up for the sake of it sounds like a bad move to me. Its done on 2strokes sometimes as it helps avoid detonation i believe and keeps the piston temp down. But thats only when you start tuning em up.

This method offends the mechanical ideals of some peole but its basic and has worked for me more than once. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Then rig up a couple of long jumper wires to run from the battery terminals, leave the - connected to the bike but disconnect the red (+). Connect the black(-) flylead to the threaded part at the bottom of the plug. Disconnect the orange wire from the cdi, then using your new funky jumper lead (the red one) put power to the wire. Dont put the power into the CDI though eh. If everything is good when you remove the power from the orange lead you will have a spark as you have just done manually what the cdi does many times a second. If you have a spark you will have proved the main 'high tension' part of the system. We can then move on to other parts to work with. Also a question, do you have six wires to the CDI or seven? You should have continuity in the cap. Showing around 4/5KOhms Are you sure you are using the meter correctly they can be very confusing.

Will it shift gears with the engine off, by just rocking back and forth. If it will try staring it in the higher gearand seeing if it will shift. I have known bikes that have sat and the selector forks have got a little sticky preventing the gears from changing when under load from the drive train. Gradually working the box back and forth with the motor off has freed them up. Worth a try.

You say you have 2 engines, have you taken the drive shaft out of the spare and compared the 2. Do you have the pump on the other engine or did that die in the second test.

In my experience most of those people haven got a bike. Check out the folks on here you will see 250's 400's big singles etc far more than 600's. Were not sheep, i think the main part of the YOC are the pure opposite to the:-"Must have latest thing everybody else has no mater if its the bike that suits me or not", type. I'll admit customs are not hight on my list, but then a 25 year old 2 stroke probably aint that high on yours. The important point is its yours and YOU enjoy it. Thats what brings motorcyclists together.

Got a pic? there shouldn't be screws in the carb slide. Its a special plate that goes under the spring. Intro would be nice too...

Great news, that should be a tidy ride when your finished.

You say you are a new biker so... How much ar you using the front brake. It happens where people think the front brake will dump them on the tarmac or over the bars if they use too much. So they use progressively more back brake to compensate for their increaced speed. It is ridiculously easy to lock the rear and it sounds like this may be the issue. A bloke i used to work with was adamant the rear was a better brake even on a hot sunny day his rear disc was blue'd it had got that hot, and the frons were cold

Sounds like a bad bulb/earth. The electric is tracking through the other fillament looking for an earth and the main beam lamp is it. Try a new bulb first, (always) and then check the earth.

The motor in the back ground is a twin shock motor all right. You have the mx motor in, was common back in the day for cases to be sold without numbers and you stamped your ones in. Dealers did the same with the frames till they started factory stamping everything to stop ringers. I think you have.... one of these And one of these One is a real early MX the other a very late Twinshock, yanky one though with the electric start.

Well you asked for DT Dr's and for the 175 you are currently contradicting them. YOUR BIKE IS, for starters in need of a lot of work. The motor IS from appearances an MX motor the 125/175 are visually identical but the later cases and top end will go on an earlier engine. The front end is twin shock complete including the clock hense no taco, year impossible to pin from the photo but from the frame number 75ish at a guess. My shot with the info at hand is either somebody had a 125 mx and smashed it and fixed it up with a twinshock, or someone has upgraded a twinshock with a busted up MX and swapped the numbers. AT2 prefix is for a DT125 made between 73 and 75. The list you have quoted is for US bikes. As for the sidepanels. Personally i'd say they were scrapers fixed up as they don't look like they reach the bottom fixings properly which factory items would.

So long as you book it in with the test station and ride directly to and from your ok, so long as you have insurance of course.

The suspention on the 125 and the 175 is the same. Many were lifted with a kit that was (still is) available that would lift the bike around 25MM without loss of travel. I have the very thing on mine, came with it i might add. The blue 175 has the wrong front pipe that is most likely a gianelli expansion chamber. I have one on mine, good ones are rare the yellow 125 has the std unit. If they differ betwween the 125/75 its only on the inside. The bottom end is identical bar the clutch which is a couple of plates down, the earlier bikes had a (paul will agree on this) monsterously restrictive airfilter set up that was thankfully massively revised from 80 onwards. That had the airfilter swapping sides with the oil tank. The biggest diference is really the ignition as these may be points or CDI depending on year, there is also 2 options for the cdi but they are hardly visual. To know for certain we need the engine/chassis number. Both if their different. This should help for now DT125MX production code 4J3 ,engine/chassis number 2A8-100101 onwards. june 79 to april 82 DT175MX production code 2K4 ,engine/chassis number 2K4-000101 onwards. feb 78 into 79 DT175MX production code 2X2 ,engine/chassis number 2K4-010101 onwards. during 79 only DT175MX production code 4J4 ,engine/chassis number 2K4-020101 onwards. 79/80 to feb 85 , this model had the square section sw arm.(Which requires a diferent rear shock). As a final point i agree with OG that front end is wrong, from the bars to the front wheel, including the instruments. Looks like an earlier front end from a twinshock if i had to say.

Cor you really really want the bloddy things to work. Phew. One cheat is to use lower wattage bulbs all round, the lamps are not as bright but take less power to 'work'. The battery needs to be absoloutly first class, no issues whatsoever. The power for the indicators comes from the ig switch, its a brown with a white tracer and powers everything else too. So if the indicators are on with the lights and the horn, throw in the brake light no chance. What actually happens is, power goes to the ig switch. From there to the indicator relay, from there back to the switch at the bars and its here that the right /left bit is decided (The contacts in here are probably one of the primary problems). The lamp in the taco uses whatever side is not in use as the earth for the lamp as there is not enough power after the lamp to light the lamps on the other side(no shit).

If you are getting 70-75 out of a 4 stroke 125 be happy with it cos its a good one. 60-65 is more common. And tuning, save the cash for riding kit.

Way back then there was a 200 with a 400 motor in it registerd as a 125. I never did prove it to myself. Was it possible do you think.

Alright, 2 questions, the 175 top end goes straight on, same exhaust and in some cases same carb (with jetting changes) there is one thing to be aware of and that is that the clutch has an extra friction and plain plate in it but the basket is the same i believe. If in good nick the 125 clutch should handle the extra. As far as performance goes its the torque that increaces. You have to rally spank the 125 to get anywhere wheras the 175 will run as fast with less rpm. Not actually a great deal quicker but a nicer engine to use with more stomp. The 125lc front end. Dont bother, been there and done it. Its an easy swap you only have to swap out the head bearings but the steering lock is crap. The bike sits high at the front, the handling goes off and the real sincher. That disk brake is no better than the drum unless it is in perfect condition. That help?

Although a very close second

As a fan of 80's 2strokes i dont count really i suppose. But you got my 2peneth, my back won't allow me to ride any of em more than 20 mile but if i had to pick it would be the Suzuki

i'll be coming up Sat morning. Unsure on the tent yet there is 2 in the loft but how good they are

You show me yours first Why don't you put a picture of what YOU have up then someone can help with accurate advice rather than guessing as there are several options on the 75 DT depending on where it is (hint hint, fill profile)

PM sent.

Well speaking from experience the engines are bloody near bomb proof, they are a 175 engine with a 125 top end. No visual difference bar a 6 bolt cyl head and obviously 175 stamped on the bottom of the barrel but that can be tweaked. The same (or very very similar crank set) is used in the DT230 Laval which is knocking 30+hp, although there is not a lot left for tuning at that stage. I'm sure OG will back me up amongst others that one of these lumps screwed together with some care is a solid gold bet. Not state of the art but strong, reasonably pretty, good parts and easy to fix. Doesent rev very high (the 175 tops at around 8000) but has the torque to get round that. Like i say its there, it will all as likely still be there at christmas.