Cynic

At the back, yeah right! I have seen you riding that 400 on the squires ride outs, at the back you were not. Not in the league of the 350 riding psycho photographer but still.

Nope, its designed for 30bhp and 90mph and has restrictions with all the elegance of a kick in the nuts. Go for it. Keep an eye on the mixture as she may be down jetted.

Could be a restricted bike, around 92-94 for some reason they made them 17hp, good for around...… yep 65mph. Not exactly sure how they did it but carb limiters and or blanked inlet rubbers seem favourite.

That its still there or its output? Please! you have already checked it. Well your first post said you had checked everything, does it run? no. So you missed something and you want suggestions, that's why your here. If your just shutting people down I will leave you to it.

Checked your battery?

70miles from what? A 7Litre fill? That's chasing 50mpg what do you expect when its prob flat out 99% of the time.

define thirsty?

Sounds dangerously like a plan. Im in. Just don't pick Easter week cos I'm in Spain.?.

I'm the same age as Pounds and pence, February 71 was the change over. So I remember the bigger notes, and the mourning of the pound note, mind it still was actually worth having then. Barely buy a chocolate bar today. When I was a kid it got you 10 smokes a bus to and from town and still left you a couple of bob.

Define 'new carb'. New as in quality replacement mikuni, new as in good second hand or new as in cheap and horrible Chinese crappy copy. Did you check the size of the jets, if their clear? It starts with no choke and the air screw is fully in so something is up in the carb, no matter how you spin the bottle its rich and sounds like its choking out once its warm.

You have actually ruined it already. Its not a barn find any more, its just a DT for sale. You should have left it as is, not so much as put the key in. Then its top dollar as a barn find. Now you have had the engine open for the crank seals there could be any number of issues, sorry but I don't know or care about your mech abilities if im buying a real classic for top money I want to do the spannering as I know my abilities. there would be a bucket of photo's and receipts afterwards too. Do you have any? Otherwise slice has said it all already.

Is there not something near you slice, buzz the Cotswolds and piss off Clarkson? Id love to take the bike down the south west.

Ha, you were 'told'. Really?

yep, getting worse over the last 5 years especially. In parts of Birmingham now they may as well switch off the traffic lights. People either que right through them or ignore them entirely. The only thing that annoys me more is how fucking bright the car headlights are getting, I live out in the stix and have already had a couple of close runs where some twat with a new car with the mega bright lights has not seen me coming and run the centre line. Makes every corner entertaining.

Thread is 3 years old, start a thread of your own to get a clear timeline and proper replies. Good idea to post an intro in the new members area too.

Yes Dt175 76 to Sept 78,

I would argue the thermostat bolt is their doing, and should be sorted at their cost. The pipe is fair enough I suppose.

Honestly. A big fuck off chain is best. In reality buy the chain from b+q and a good padlock. A lot cheaper. Villains are not sharp enough to care. Big lock is noise and hassle. Enough to make them nick someone else's. Shitty twist on life but that's how it is. Use the padlock as a disk lock if your going to low risk areas. My work car park has cameras and barriers so I just use the disc lock there.

Its heat cycles your after, do a few short hops, don't hammer it for maybe 50 miles, then stay off the red line for another 100 as on a new bike your running everything in so there 'could' be a manufacturing issue ( maybe an assembler left his lunch in the rocker cover). If nothing has fell of by 150 miles ride normally. A good guide would be to stick religiously to the posted speed limits for a few days and then let your caveman out gradual and you will be fine. You can also ring its neck from day one, either works to be honest, any issues will affect somebody 5 years down the road when their 20k miles bike needs a set of rings. Yes I'm being serious, you can run in or not. Modern bikes don't really need it, its how long you want/need it to last. Honda fireblades thrashed from the word go were shown to have more power than lovingly run in models. I suppose you need to ask yourself, how much do you value the warranty because I guarantee the bikes computer will tell Yamaha if you tried to be valentino in the first 20 miles. Your question implies your already bored, Yamaha told you how far to run it in and you want to know how long it will take till you can spank it.

My old lady has had both done, do the exercises, even the daft seeming ones, it will make all the difference. Literally between being fine in a few months and being back on sticks in 12.

Don't fall for assumption. When you have problems you should always check when things change. Especially easy checks like batteries. Check the standing voltage (should be 13 and a bit in a good battery). The battery voltage controls the current through the rr. It's used a bit like a reference figure. So a low battery will have the rr working its nuts off trying to bring the V down. Reduce the voltage you increase the work. ie current.

Do yourself a favour and if you do have to top this battery up by any real amount, use battery acid. Your battery could have goosed the new RR.

Yep, 1978 Dt175 E

'Sigh' Still with the restricted myth. back in the 80's and 90's when the learner rules came in European bikes were not affected. Due to the learner uk market being small they just castrated the 20-30hp euro 125's for the brit market. the brit teens, me being one at the time. Promptly ripped out said restrictions and got 80% of that power back. Modern 125's like the YZF are not restricted at all. The emission and noise regs they have to pass mean they make the hp they are designed to. You can throw a fortune at it and get a few hp but not enough to shout about for what it will cost. Spend the money on rider lessons, knowing how to brake and take a corner will make you much faster than an extra 3 hp.

2 stroke! But im biased, if your not racing, crosser is a bit wasted really. Enduro would be better, still fast, road legal (ish) will do what any crosser can well beyond most peoples (honest) abilities. If you have to have the crosser, their serviced on hours not miles, not many either. Im at a loss to the actual numbers but its low. Oil change after each meet, prob a chain a meet too.