Cynic

I'm intregued too, my only thought so far is all those voltage figures were no load. How much actual power can that little coil handle?

Me either, it all contradicts its self far too much. Get enough of that from the wife.

Has it ever run properly in your care? Are you sure you swapped like for like CDi's as there is only one wire difference. When you say it won'nt rev do you mean riding down the road or static?

Noooooooooo..... The last thing that bike needs is bigger tyres, its handling is pretty good anyhow. Easily the equal of anything not in the supersports catagory. Bigger tyres don't always mean more grip, most often they give less as they end up pinched on the rim. I doubt your spinning the tyre up exiting corners and unless your having problems with dragging your knee and exhaust which means riding with a lean of something like 50 degrees your not likely to run off the tyre. Bigger tyres also cause more drag (friction) robbing horsepower and slow the steering. Of course if your posing......... (you will need a wider back wheel too). . Spend the cash on riding lessons, or some track instruction (makes a phenominal difference to your riding) not car park cobblers. Oh and try introducing yourself too

Come on now fess up and show yourself in the noobies section with a bit of background.

Pretty much what went through my mind on the way home today, on a roundabout i use which is very heavily used by all sorts of traffic 24/7.

Oh my god you bought one of THOSE, have you never heard of the problems people have with these...... Nah neither have i Welcome to the asylum er, boards.....

First a question, why clean the carb out in the first place? If tapping the carb stops it the float needle may well be perfectly ok, could you have inadvertently bent something that may cause the floats to stick? Did you check the floats themselves?, they can perish and loose some boyancy.

I know the old sweats will have experienced this first hand but i thought i'd put it up while its on my mind. We do seem to have a lot of new riders even with the draconian learner restrictions. All you folks wizzing around on your first love, after a very long spell of basically dry weather the first time it rains in whatever part of this damp land you live in the roads will become incredibly greasy. Like riding on a hard winter frost, more so in inner cities. Just be aware

No K+N filters are great, i have used several on different bikes over the years, its the pods that are no good. Pods are only a performance boos to an engine tuned to run flat out with WOT so having still air is not an issue, you just want lots of it. Or you want it for the looks and the noise, but performance . They will cause bad running in bad weather, flat spots and hesitation. Its not so bad on 2 strokes running conventional slide carbs but CV's that work with inlet vacume get all stroppy with the uneven airflow. By all means fit them if you want but a replacement of your standard filter will work far far better. TTS whan they tuned a 600 i had, told me that they will only remove the airbox for pods on bikes that run the drag strip, otherwise it requires a direct request from the customer.

For Squires 2012 or 13.....

Hi all, quick question for all the DT175 owners out there.. I followed a DT175 today, real tidy blue one with the same (or very similar) pipe to mine and a 1980 model. It didn't go like mine though. Not even close. It sounded flat, still husled up enough to leave me behind in the truck but nothing like my one. Mine would have cleared of, big time. It rides for all the world like an old MX bike. What yours like?

From that reply Paul I know you haven't ridden your MX for a while. You got all cosy on its high tech grandson. Whatever oil you put in em they will be glorified pogo sticks, they are slightly softer pogo's than a road bike but no mater how hard you try plush is never going to be a word used with these forks. Don't forget its the springs (squidgy ones in our case)that set the strength of the forks the oil just stops oscillation over bumps. Personally i go with the air gap rather than quantity as no mater how carefull you are you just won't get all the old stuff out unless you have done a full strip and clean. As to 5, 10 whatever, just means they will jar your wrists on smaller bumps tbh as you get thicker. I think i've got 10 in mine and i would describe them as firm as far as big bumps go. As for corrugations . The old girl is mainly a glorified road bike now though rather than hardcore muddy (i remember when........ )

No point if the stabiliser will have done its job it will just pass through the system with your normal fuel.

I generally find riding the bike works well , or draining the carbs before the winter layup. As for fuel system cleaner, nope get the spanners out, the many numerous bottles are a waste of money save for the fuel stabilisers. But they need to go in before its laid up.

Funny how the people who have chipped in on this thread are year round riders........ Makes you think eh...

Thats one of the very first of em, should be a good bike when its all done.

Its simple really, performance sells bikes. The works Yamaha teams promote sales for fast bikes, the motocross promote sales of dirt bikes. The sensible fuel efficient version is promoted by, er, er, nope. The small capasity 250ish commuter stuff sells its self to discerning punters who want 70-80 MPG. The rest of the time as far as Yamaha are concerned with increacing MPG, is more Motorcycles Per Garage. Its the punters fault, the mainstay of motorcycles are glorified toys. You must know somebody who can throw money at his/her bike for the latest fashion. Those people couldn't give a monkeys about fuel, they want BHP. The extra 3mph over the green one they had last year is all they care about. I agree fuel economy on bikes is shite, my TDR can stretch to maybe 60mpg ridden efficiently, and that doesent mean slow. But that bike dates back to when bikes were all round items. Now they have been designed to fit a certain group. The common point in that group is the same thing we see on here week in week out. Want to go faster. If our motorcycle engines were tuned to the same level as cars they would be better on fuel. To use the focus angle here: That 1600 motor cranks out 113hp, or 70bhp/litre My TDR250 gives 50hp, thats 200bhp/litre (the 50 is due to the pv changing the engine dynamics when its open your getting 30mpg or less when its shut you have maybe 20hp so 80bhp/litre and so economy) Even the 90bhp divvy is making 100bhp/litre No mater how these engines are made and by whom bhp increaces come from burning fuel, If any of the big four churned out a spanking new bike at say 600cc giving maybe 35hp that it was designed to for economy not gutted to 33bhp by a 'kit' would give good gas milage. Cant see there being many takers though.

HMM so thats just over a gallon, around 45miles on the 250. Or around half a gallon, around 30miles on the DT. Don't think the stations are that close together.....

Unfortunate Yep, they do only permit one way current. Problem being that if there is enough juice the other way you can force through it and the unit will go off like a tiny blasting cap and the problem with the bi colour things is that they run at around 5 volts so your looking at a little black box of bits and pieces to correct the voltage thats all. The specific 12v ones work fine on a bike, i have one on my TDR for main beam as it happens

You need voltage correction both sides of the diode, it will only take maybe 3v reverse and wont want more than 5v foreward. The challenge and i'm on my limits here with electronics is the fact that LED's need a fairly constant voltage and bikes just don't generate it, especially at the headlight. You need an electronics man, unless you settle for 12v led's that dont change colour you just have 2 instead. Can you not mount something in the face of the speedo?

TBH the only thing that i am not keen on with your tracker is them lights. They look messy and overcomplicated and spoil the front. For my money i'd have one on each bar, bit like DT 175 indicators. You could then have one idiot light in each light body, tint the lenses in the warning lamps and unless there on you wouldn't see em. Am i ducking rocks now?

I'd be wary of actually going to 2mm on the rebore as thats it, last one unless there is the same spectacular damage on the barrel? I'd sooner go with the spare that gives a bit of room as these barrels are getting v rare now. I have 2 and i'm not selling.

Waste of time a good quality lock is fine, if someone really wants the bike nothing will stop them. They use fridge lorries to nick alarmed bikes. Bloke with a helmet and stuff with his mate helping out with a truck cos his alarm don't work. Sound like fantasy. Happend to a bloke i knew, he felt sorry for the guy in leathers and HELPED them load the bike. I say again for the price of an ok alarm you can get a really good lock. Locks don't go off at 3 am or leave you stranded cos the imobiliser has gone on the fritz.

You laugh Kev, one of the reasons i sold the 600 apart from the aches and pains was the fact that i rode too bloody fast everywhere. That bike wasn't even trying till it was at 120 odd miles an hour with 150 on the limiter in top easily achievable. The TDR is realisticly done and over by 90 unless you get cruel but boy does it get there quick, as fast as the 600 cos i tried it. But comparing 90 to 130+ is the difference between a bollocking from a copper and a fine, or a straight up ban, and the 250 at A road speeds is a LOT more fun than the 600 was. Speed really is a waste of time, this is coming from a HGV driver who's lorry is tracked and a flag shows in our traffic office if i exceed whatever speed is nominated for that road. Typically on my route a staggering 40mph. Funnily enough i never have to cope with traffic in front holding ME up, wonder why. Lots behind me?