Cynic

Oh don't let me stop you, just you did put it in open forum and the name cynic wasn't plucked out the air. I have had it thrown at me time again. You want to fit lighter wheels go right ahead i was just trying to highlight the tiny improvement you will get. As well as the lighter wheels being fitted to allow handling improvements more than power.

Kind of but the bike isn't carrying the weight, its sat on it. The mass also keeps the bike stable and works the suspention, if you made a worthwhile saving you will need to alter your shocks and forks as they will be over sprung. The greatest part of the weight on your wheels is the tyres, have the rims changed to ally would lose a bit but the rest of the weight is the hub and the drive gubbins, even worse if its a shaftie. On a track R6 with a pedigree rider it matters, on the queens highway. Nah. I'm not saying don't do it, but the real savings are probably the same as having a good shit before you go for a ride.

+1 for me too. If it makes you feel any better they are prone to it. Very sensitive to detonation too.

Parallel twin......

So did you measure the bore?

They run to around 12k possibly/more than likely even more paul, they are ridiculous.

cable ties, yuk

And how will lighter wheels help mpg. Its not mass carried by the suspention so won't affect engine performance all that much. Lighter wheels are a help for handling, lower rotating mass, less gyroscopic effect, etc.

Even money say's all that little bike has for a regulator is a big assed resistor somewhere near or on the front of the frame in the airflow. Its all a 72 dt (Well CT's ) had anyhow, HTH.

And of course you measured the barrel didn't you? as ring failure is most common when the bore has worn. Sounds like you have busted rings again, or worse a few bits of ring have got down into the bottom end. Either way your pulling it down again. Feel free to introduce yourself in the new members area, you will get a lot more help that way. Note the sig.

Oh i say! some thourougly spiffing semi (gufwar) synthetic 2 stroke stuff. Regular bike engine 10/30 stuff in the ol box fwar har har. 'Box' ; 'fur banger' get it.....

Sorry mate that bottom end is dead, crank rebuild at the very least. The corrosion you can see on the counterweight will be on the bearings and there is no acceptable way to sort that. Soon as it runs the tiny bits of dust and corrotion will become grinding paste. Check e-bay you should be able to find the bits for not too much money, i just chucked a load of stuff away. A good short motor too funnily enough so it shouldn't cost a fortune but your going to knock a 100-150 sized hole in that buget for the engine alone.

Me too, i did an apprenticship at the very start of the cpve bullshit. £27 a week for a 40+ hour week doing all the shit the qualified blokes didn't want to. I bought ran insured and maintained a Gp100 on that.

If you had bought the manual and all the tools as well as the chain and sprockets you would still have spent considerably less than 180quid. And have prob 80-100 quid in your pocket. Pleading poverty when your talking about the manual is lame. It will save its own cost many many times over in your situation.

The other favorite is not loosening the torque arm.

In the centre of the engine is the piston this is the engines basic problem as its only 50 odd mm across. Quart from a pint pot sums it up, that engine is giving what its designed to give, noisy filters and exhausts make it 'SOUND' faster but basically your getting all its got to give without spending a lot of money for tiny gains that will destroy reliability and economy. Use properly and enjoy, top speeds on tarmac is totally wrong for a WR, like taking a fireblade down the Ridgeway. Keep the wheels dirty and tolerate the tarmac and the bike will be stunning. Light, quiet and economical brilliant for laning, or looking good at the chippy. But fast, no.

I really don't know what to say to that. The basic principles are the same, engine is an engine. A chain drive is about as basic as it gets. Same as a timing chain, same as a primary chain. Mechanics is mechanics, Stumped............

Definitely, lesson here is learn how to adjust the chain yourself. I will not use dealers, i , if i have no other choice will use people i know can do the job even if it costs me. Dealers can rot as far as i care i haven't used one that hasn't tried some sort of con. Going against the popular line here i think the fellow is on about the cush drive (if the ybr has one) which would be doable at the same time as the sprocket as it 'just' pushes into place. One thing bothering me, although being dealer related meh. Surely this chain and sprocket set is well under 12months old and covered manifestly less than the expected mileage and you have even had it adjusted and maintained by the (St)dealer. Can you not claim for defective goods.

Easiest one is with your ears, turn the ig on and you should hear the noise of the powervalve going through its self clean cycle. After that its spanners......

Catch 22, how far do you go. I have contact stuff in my wallet. but what if its nicked, if you have stuff on your jacket what if its copied, cloned or whatever. I'll make do with the big square plate on the back of the bike for now.

You have said it all already, strip down time, or get another.

Just remember Steve, Ride the camels TO TOWN.

I'd hardly put DT175's in the rare as rocking horse shit pile, compared to my TDR they are 10 a penny.

This is one for the year round folk, i have said before about the suzuki i used to own. Well it dumped its rider on the road over the weekend nobody and nothing else envolved, totally alone on the road, cause? A front brake pad. Yep, thats it. Corrosion had got behind the pad material and then, heat expansion maybe? something caused it to crack. Therafter a chunk came away and locked the front solid. Thankfully at about 15mph. The offending bits came out while stripping the front. This i'm told produced a near vertical, anal clamping stoppie. Dumping my mate (thankfully in full kit) over the bars on the ground doing his ankle, then drops back to earth and politely leans its self against some poor sods parked car breifly before falling over and braking the footpeg. Jim was convinced for a moment that the whole 230kg was going to go right over the top onto him, that WOULD have hurt. Anybody running with rusty looking brake pads? eh? nervous? Got to be worth checking.

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