Cynic

Like a lot of work, i'd go with riding it with the replacement exhaust and see what gives.

Don't mean to spoil your fun but that 125 is a 175. If it was a 125 the chassis number would start 2A8. 2K4-001 is the earliest of the 175 MX generation dating from feb 78 to very early 79 when the 2K4-010 took over. It was the 2K4-020 that had the square swinger, LH airbox and 6 wire cdi

You got exactly what they told you they would send. They point out the big snazzy pic is one of their upgrades and pic 4 is the chain you will get and you will get 'OEM equivalent sprockets'. I googled em and far as i can tell they should be fine. Got quite a good write up TBH.

There should be a red wire with a connector on it near the cdi, that doesent go to the cdi. Not to be confused with the red on the 7 wire cdi set up don't connect that to the battery. The - or black wire may have broken away it connects to the chassis using the voltage regulator retaining bolt on the later models.

If its got the lh filter then it shouldn't have the round swinger. Maybe its an upgrade. Or the fellow doing the part rebuild fitted it. Who knows. Wack the first part of the chassis number (leave the last 3 digits off for safety's sake) up and we will know for certain.

If your fitting it to a sub 10 second quarter mile bike fine, otherwise your right mixture etc goes to pot. Years back i had a Suzuki tuned by TTS (google em) and they will not without specific instruction from the owner remove the stock airbox. Cos of the hassle it causes.

I have tried them in the past, when i rang for the TDR wheels they wanted the wheels for 4-6 weeks and it was a 12 week lead time cos they were busy. pah. I wasn't impressed I used this guy...... Reccomended, basic build is around 60quid a wheel, plus postage etc etc i got my TDR wheels done with powdercoating and stainless spokes for 230 all in, was very happy. Merv has used him too.

Ha Ha Ha i've been riding it 2 years since that post.

Boring point, a 170bore will be utterly illegal and in any bad situation the law and the insurance companies will spank you till you cry "mummy". That said with that kit set up properly you do get a lot of go for your buck, maybe crack a genuine 80, 85mph which on those spedo's will prob show as 110.

Ah i'm an eternal optimist when it comes to engines after having to run shit on a shoestring for years i can make things last. The engine cutting out would have been the pistons dragging in the bore and the rattle would have been the valve gear. Point is they are the most highly stressed parts, i'll wager they can be replaced for less tham a 2nd hand motor and have a better motor because of it. how many 2 strokes nip due to oil starvation, they survive the experience normally so long as they get oil quick. There is a lot more metal wizzing around in a diesel but i wouldn't write the motor off. I get the impression Ttask doesent let his maintainance slip which does more harm. Oh yea, Tout!, "total knackerisation" pmsl at that.

You could be lucky here Ttask, your only going to have stress on the pressurised bits. I'm assuming that you keep things all good normally so your gearbox etc will be fine. As a rule (admittadly a little luck needed) pistons will pick up first and the engine will cut. May not remove the need for some shells but i would pull the motor down and have a look. If it was a neglected wreck running in ancient porridge then yes i'd write it off but if the oil is good?

Mlud, post 1 was made due to the consequences of post 2. And a book isn't broke if you drop it, won't go flat, still works with dirty fingers and spilt coffee and can't crash and wipe its self.

ISBN 1 85010 300 3 Amazon for around 20 quid.

Who's that then????

C'mon, it seems to be getting more frequent these days you have to admit. Be it down to incorrect re-bores or just tolerance issues i don't know but they are coming up more frequently. As to big ends, that rod can rattle like a donkey engine for all it matters she will still run.

If they were asking £1000 to cover fully comp and 300 for tpft on a £1000 bike then tpft is the way to go. But in your case, 100quid difference. Not much in it really. Same as for me fully comp is meaningless, ANY damaged parts on my Tdr or the DT will result in a total loss write off as the bits are nigh impossible to get. Most of the TDR parts have been out of production for years. They are both under agreed value classic policies that have a set value.

21 quid for seals and piston delivered on the bay.

You do realise your talking about high pressure hydraulic parts that your life can quite literally depend on. Its a polished machined surface. No mater what you remove the crud and crap with there will be marks that will ruin seals. Your going to have to replace the piston with the seals at the very least as well as thoughrougly cleaning the caliper body.

You only really need the pump and the bottle, ebay should give you what you need. As i said the pumps are normally pretty good, you may well still have the pump in the cases so you just need the bottle and the plumbing. Check first.

I take it you have ordered a manual with that tool kit?

Bin it the parts to repair will be more than the cost of a replacement from a braker.

Valve piston contact?

Wemoto, here...http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/dt_175_mx/78-79/picture/carburettor_complete_repair_kit/ That 'should' sort it, don't shoot me if it doesent though.

I've said it before, if you had bought a manual and the tools to do the job you would still be better off. I have yet to find a dealer i trust. there are mechanics i use if i'm stuck, and i emphasise mechanics. Old school spanner men NOT fitters. I have bought cars new and my old suzuki was only 6 months old and neither of them have ever been in for dealer servicing. The car had to go back for a recall and they fked that up. Expand your bike knowledge and learn to fix it yourself. For me hitting the brakes hard for a bend i know when and how the brakes have been serviced and my life is in my control. Bloke in the dealer could have been having a bad day, called to do something else or just don't like his/her job and did what he had to. Would they bevel the pads, spend time cleaning the threads/slides, washing the caliper out. No they would have 20 minutes bish bosh. I don't want that on my mind trying to enjoy a set of bends. You were ripped off, don't give them the oppotunity.

I'd be inclined to get the overhaul kit for the carb and rebuild it to the spec for a 79 DT175 production code 2k4 with the jets to suit and then go from there, esp as your paying for the bottom end to be done. With that airbox TBH it shouldn't run with a 160. I have the later airbox on mine and that has a 160 main, i tried a 170 to allow for the pipe and a K+N and it just plain wouldn't run. It would start from stone cold and then just die out as it warmed up. Your talking about being over by far more. I would bet you were running with a bad air leak, maybe a blown crank seal and the massive over fueling compensated to get it running. These engines are tough and don't die easy, they don't take tuning well but they can take abuse in spades, believe me i've given mine plenty. Thats why i think your bike was well on the road to terminal anyway. As to the premix, personally i would fix the autolube system. It works incredibly well, is nowhere near as fragile as people think. They get disconnected because people have thrashed the bike to an inch of its life or run the tank out and its siezed (quel suprise) then blame the oil pump and remove/disconnect it (sound familiar). Chucking oil in the top of the tank, that just isn't as good.