Cynic

Shouldn't that be walk with a clink

Another one with no infomation, what are we psychic.

Thats down to the ig timing. Here in the UK switching between regular (95 ) and super (98) unleaded needs a 4 degree advance on the ignition. On that theory you need maybe 6 even 7 degree's difference to swap, if the bike was set for 93 and you ran 87 that would have done for the piston, the flapping noise? could be pre ig stalling the piston causing it to wack against the bore, these old smokers can't compensate for the change like modern fi stuff.

The colouration on the little end and the pin wouldn't bother me much, as to adding the oil that would be a big no no from me. Its innacurate and messy, not to mention a king pain in the arse away from the farm. You also have to re jet to do that on a pump motor, as you need to allow for the oil in the fuel which is effectively leaning the mixture. If you want to add oil bang on but do it the easy way with the pump. just shim it up a bit more for more stroke, even just stick a couple of turns on the cable.

Be worth checking properly, when that seal goes usually the bearing behind it will be in poor shape too due to the crud from the chain getting in, that seal is there to keep stuff out probably as much or moreso than keeping stuff in. It may even be shaft movement thats causing the leak.

You don't need indicators on a bike of that age so long as there isn't provision for them. So remove the parts from the hbar sw and keep the wire (if any) out of sight and your fine. Mine hasn't had indicators since the 90's

Making that Xt go faster? Thats up there with the cure for the common cold and perpetual motion. If its as good as you say it is, use it get your test enjoy the fact it has epic fuel economy then sell it for a faster bike. You could de restrict the old 2 strokes because the european stuff had no HP restrictions so UK bikes were knobbled versions with tacky washers etc to keep the hp down to comply.Nowadays with emmision regs the engines have to be developed properly so the 11hp uk motor is just that. 11HP. Not a 20hp mass euro market engine restricted. To get worthwhile gains you will be looking at serious tuning. Head work and big bores, ker ching$$$. Spend the money on rider training and kit and leave the bike alone.

Why do people ask about CDi's, i don't recall one failing on here.

How does £1.38 a litre grab you, or around £6.20 for a UK gallon. That works out at over a tenner to fill the DT from reserve.

Nah, leaky float bowl won't kill the motor, just wasting liquid gold thats all. If you were paying our prices you wouldn't waste a drop.

You want to try the TDR, 2 pipes high up you stink to high heaven. You can tell which is the truck i usually use at work from the 'aroma' of burnt 2 stroke. My rucksac is probably watertight now Your old pipe probably had a smaller outlet pointing down which means the worst of the fumes will get caught in the air under the bike maybe, but that costs HP.

From personal exp that is either bad plugs or lean mixture at higher rpm. Done it myself more than once. In my experience all the crap goes out the pipe. But its your motor so rinsing the cases may be worthwhile? New piston, lift the needle a clip and away you go.

What size were the mains, they are huge, like 240odd possibly bigger still. The bike can get down to 30mpg with hard use, less is perfectly possible on a track.

That red from the engine is there IF its needed. Both the 79 and the 80-onwards bikes wiring is almost identicle, the difference being the cdi. The 79 has 7 wires and the 80- has 6 the odd one being a red. Goes directly from the stator to the cdi. If you have 7 wires at the cdi you need to use it and connect it to the red at the stator. No red at the engine and 6wire cdi, just tuck it out the way.

Where the cable goes in if you clear out all the crud there is a circlip, you will need to give it a good soak though. Those gears are a snug fit and they will take some shifting. The screw gear comes out through the cable hole. They are also about as hard as candle wax so go gentle. Oh and welcome to the forum. Ps, BUY A MANUAL.

Unfortunately yes, they are designed for reliability and fuel efficientcy, not speed. Although doesent stop people trying. They are pretty good out the box TBH. Should get 70 from a good one. Way back in the dark ages we could humble the trailee 125's even if we couldn't catch the road rockets.

Welcome to the forum. Lovely little bikes the DT, bit lacking in go but you can't have everything. I'd have a good look round the engine for the rattle first. I'm not discounting the little end but at 5k its a little early. The engines are very 'agricultural' esp compared to that 650. Loose bash plate or exhaust bracket would be what i'd be looking for first.

I'm wasting my time. It wasn't sarcasm it was an example, a very good one i thought.

Exactly my point, the rangerover is for dirt and road, the tvr is pure sports road and track machine.

Horses for courses, thats all. Hypothertical question.... I wonder if there are any people asking on Range Rover forums why their 4.0 Rangies are nowhere near as fast as a TVR Tuscan as they both have the same engine?

Nothing to do with the battery at all, it will run quite happily without one, although your lighting would be a bit dim at the lights. You may have trapped the accellerator cable turning right, slim TBH or there is muck in the carb from standing for so long or the slide has stuck. Give the carb a good clean and make sure all the jets are clear and you should be fine.

That would be th...........

Pssst, Do i say it now or later?

Not my cup of coffee but welcome to the boards and good luck with it, piccies