Cynic

Just pressure in the cases. It will vent through the breather but there is a mass of air moving at all times. That piston humping up and down. The oil filler is nearer to the driving force of the air thats all. The idle... The crank will vent into the intake AFTER the air meter (obvious reasons) you have let extra unmetered air in to the system. Esp with a bad battery. With use and maybe a new battery. Or a charge and possibly a new plug i think it will be fine.

I have ridden with a tdr 125 running the athena kit. 90 mph bike. No fantasy either. Blackhat was with me at the time. It may be worth mentioning that it did kill the motir in the end. Something in the box was the description i last heard. If you keep it sensible then i see it as a good way to improve a dt. Licence and insurance not withstanding.

Personally. Police can be inconvenient. VOSA can do what the holy hell they like. Stop, sieze, hold and of course prosecute. I see a plod. Not really bothered. VOSA cross your fingers.

The chain on wifeys nissan dont last. Got nearly 2years out the last one. Can do em in about 6hrs now.

Fsh or walk away. They are all powerd by intel (da da de da)these days. If its a mint early carb then grab it and check your life insurace.

Pre 86 it dont matter one way or the other.

Oh and yes let the engine vent overnight with the plug out. Before you try it.

With a blow torch or a gas ring in the kitchen. If the plug is hot then you will get a little longer before the plug is wet because its hot. Also the heat dissapating from the plug into the head can help too. So get the bike ready to start. Heat the plug then put it in as quick as possible.( Couple of dry runs to practice will help). As soon as the plug is in try and start it.

Well they turned up 3 days later and seem ok. They keep the water out. They are far warmer than regular waterproofs and the armour/padding while basic is where it matters. You can also wear what you like under them. The zips run 99 per cent of the way up the leg and the velcro has a hell of a grip. Its a weather seal that seems to work. If i'm being negative i think the zips could be better quality. And the waist adjustment is crap. I have got some clip on braces that work ok. Overall.....7/10 I think they are ok. Some things could be better but nothing drastic apart from the waist adjustment. For 60 quid i am warmer, drier and better protected and able to wear normal clothes underneath.

So with everybody wanting you to put stuff in the plug whole how about this one. Take out the plug and................leave. Couple of hours later crank it a couple of times. No choke or throttle. Then........leave it. The following day make sure your all set. Get your plug. clean it. Gap it then get the fucker as hot as you can. Get it in the cyl quick as and give her a go. I think its just flooded myself.

Heh i will have to use the dt for squires this year. Show you what a real dt looks like......ha ha... Looking good paul. Hope mine doesent get any idea's.

Check the stand switch and its wiring. Find the connections in the headlight and bypass of need be.

If that was the case why the gullies?

Condensation. Yep annoyingly simple. When the engine is cold the oil doesent burn because the engine isnt hot enough. Once up to temperature the oil. If everything is set right will not quite make it to the combustion chamber. Ultimately some of it will. Thing is some will stick to the piston and more. Due to the temp to the side of the cases. Will collect on said cases. This will collect in the gullies and feed the bearings. Suzuki do it differently. The mag bearing is pump fed. The other is open to the gearbox. Thats why suzuki boxes are even tougher than dt's. But the wont run without an autolube.

Silly. How many really wierd electrical issues come up on here.. ...

You are smart to keep the fazer. That honda is a track weapon. Well ridden it is as fast in most cases as an r1. But fk me the thing is unforgiving.

You are short on options.... That motor needs to be done right. Your biggestvproblem is doibg it yourself will cost you over 4 in parts. The TDR forum is the place to ask. There are a few lads on there may take it on but TDR engine rebuilds are not cheap.

Wouldnt bother me as much as why the water was coming out. I would guess at it being drilled due to a previously siezed unit maybe. Once your happy there is no mechanical issue. Any good quality motor sealant, RTV for example will be fine. The wifes nissan has several bolt fixings that are directly into water galleries and they seal the same way. I'm not saying its right but a blob of snot on the threads at reassembly may well be all thats needed.

Is there not one of your camp mates.....er you know what i mean.. That could do it. There must be trailers and such on base you could use......

If the crank seals have gone then for the money you may as well do them all. They all work at their limits in their own way. Although i really dont get changing one crank seal...?

The limit is 60 miles from base, any more and you have to put a taco in. I do recovery when things are slow.

As said the dt has not had any for years... Smart arse mot man told me the rear brackets were there so there was provision. 20mins later i was back for a retest minus said frame brakets. The look on his face was a picture but it passed. Been like that ever since. I'm sure the age of the bike helps. Its been taking me to work for years.

Could actually be the otger way. You said the old pipe was de restricted. It may be rich. Does it need choke to start...?

Don't see the problem. The dt hasnt had indicators for 20 years.

Have you checkedvto see if the dolly has brakes?