Cynic

I would be careful. There is not a lot of mud room as it is. I have been stopped more than once by mud jamming the wheel up. Try and get the proper size would be my gambit. Esp for off road work.

A sensible lock. Dont go mad cos you will piss away a fortune. Something sensible. I Have 2 disc locs and a d lock. All easily carried which is important. (Best lock in the world is useless in the garage.) None are all that impressive but its time you want and irritation. Most theives want quick and easy. If yours isnt they will nick someone elses. Cruel but its the world were in. Hope you enjoy it. You have picked the best time to start.

Suppose it might apeal to the now generation. I have been talking garage bollocks to my next door neighbour before, he has said his missus and her daughter have been chatting on facebook. Fair enough you might think. One at college one at home maybe? Nope both on smartphones IN THE SAME FUCKING ROOM. As said my dt and the tdr to a degree tak me back to a snotty teen. Then calling home cost 10p from a phone box. Being out on you own was truly on your own.

Baring whatever the vibrations are. Yes. The temp gague normally causes more paranoia than it helps anyway. If the head is cold when you touch it its cold. No mater what the gague says. Have you run the bike with the rad cap off to see if the waters moving properly.

Sounds like the sender unit. The vibration is an unknown. The ice could have done all sorts of wierdness. You could have damaged the sleve or parts in ths sidecase. You can test the sender by taking it out and putting it in boiling water. That should show above normall temp but not in the red. She should be running 95 deg or therabouts.

Not sure if anything is wrong maybe just different. It is a cruel truth that 2 strokes normally run at there very best just before they blow. How does the bike sound worse. Anything you can describe. Did he use gen parts. Or did it just get a quick hone and some rings. Info needed.

Thanks for the offer its appreciated. The firm thats done the barrel said they can do it while i wait for a tenner. So i will call in sat morning. 70hr weeks suck.

Still in there as in the cooling system or the engine in general. What is the gearbox oil like.

BLOCKED IDLE JET

There was a thread a while back about 2stroke engines on here. There was a section on lubrication and they used mx bikes as an example. There is an ideal oil quantity that is far lower than we would believe. None of the racers accepted it worked and junked the pump. So now you premix crossers. I have been riding 2 strokes for 30 years and pumps only fail cos dickeds fiddle with them thinking they know better than a multi billion pound industry. I have never lost a motor to anything other than my own stupidity. I would be more concerned with carb and airbox condition. Personally i would be looking for a clean fullpower tzr or a stock one i could work with rather than the italian crap. Esp as you like throwing money at dealers. Aprillia and cagiva will add 25% just for the badge.

Dont fall for the crap that its better to premix. Its all myth. Bikes run better with the pump. The oil is better controlled and its a lot cleaner and more convenient. Personally i would do everything possible to stay with the pump. Using squires as an example i used around a litre and a half of 2 stroke the first time i went. Actually running out thanks to a blown bulb. Last year knobing about with the 175 posse and taking a slower but far nicer run up and back i used a third of that. Use the pump grouch.

If you can bore it yourself do it. The hone just roughs up the surface like sanding wood to apply paint. So long as you use a boring bar shouldn't be an issue. Are you sure the bottom end is ok. My dt ate its piston earlier in the year and the swarf got everywhere. Seals bearings all toast. Even splitting the cases caused the stuff to spread into the bloody gearbox.

Northampton......

Think yams first bike was in the late 50's

As far as i understood classic is 15 insurance wise. Vintage was 25 but i thnk that stops at tax exempt these days. Or how afronted the brit enthusiast (see olde scrappe heaype) is when you jappaneese bike is a good bit older than his. Has happened tobme and my dad more than once. Had his ig cut at a show he went to so he could not do the parade lap on his 1970 honda cb175

Nope no pv on a 85 bike. Didnt happen to the dt till 92 i think. Have you done the basics first. Checked the plug and things like the small filter in the fuel tap. Carbs dont change much apart from getting dirty.

I will just have to take it in to the engineers that did the rebore. Doubt i can beg borrow or steal the kit for what they would charge to do it.

Nope wont work. The counterweights are alongside it. Maybe 2mm clearance. You cant get anything behind it thickeer than a feeler gague.

ok peeps after some ideas. One of the main bearings stubbonly wont come off. Tried hot and cold. Trouble being i think the crank expands with the bearing so keeping it tight. You cant get the heat in the bearing without heating the crank. I have been messing with it for a couple of days now. Its stopping me and pissing me off so i need some ideas.

Yes thats 4stroking when rich and flat when lean. Seriously you cannot tune a carb in 2 minutes. Given the price of labour these days for 35 quid he will probably stare at it. And give you it back. Your just missing something simple. Engines are never identical. They all have there little differences. Hell there are 38 tractor units in our depot. All identical spec but every one drives different. First job. Check for leaks. Inlet or exhaust. Then to prove the basic theory ride a test route. 3 or 4 mile that you can repeat. Now lift the needle one clip and go for a test. Better? No. Ok repeat with the cip the other way. Let us know how you fare with that. Dont touch anything else just the needle height.

What makes you so sure its lean. My dt went lean. ( dodgy inlet manifold that i didnt spotctill too late) and to be honest it had never run so well. I was loving the way she rode right up to the point that a hole you could drop a 5p through appeared in the piston.

So long as you go gentle with a small drill and some patience you should be able to remove it. Its only brass. Drill a couple of spots on the brass to use a screwdriver against. You talking about binning it anyway so if you break it trying its no foul.

Have you checked the float height. Stuff like this can happen if its a little low. Fuel isnt filling the bowl fast enough. As you get further through the gears the fuel draw will increase. The worn bore would have pulled less air through the carb. So it may not have shown as a problem enough to notice.

Change your plugs. Check the coil and leads. Then check for leaks in the inlet system. The inlet rubbers get a real hard time and can crack.

Heh. Well held. Amazing how many people start thinking about their kit when the worst nearly happens. Im no better believe me. Gravel rash does wonders for you priorities. Like others have said there must be some extas you can squese them for here. Imagine the law suit they could be looking at. In this day and age they could have been looking at manslaughter. Makes you think.