clutch has stuck together thats all.
Rocking in fitzt may fix it. After 4 years prob be. etter to whip off the engine case and separate the plates by hand.
Same distance for me Kev. Are you goibg straight up the A1 Elvis. If so we could meet up somewhere. I will be coming from Northampton and would sooner stay off the dull stuff. At least for a while. I generally mess about cross country and end up on the A1 around Grantham ish. Need fuel too normally.
The upshift needs more rpm and positive movements with the lever. Wait till the bike is on power above maybe 7 or 8 thosand and press firmly on the lever.
When you shut the throttle breifly the gear will change.
Try this......er on a private road eh.
Pull off get 1st out the way then wide open throttle. To the stops then let the limiter cut the power so you shift, same pressure on the lever. I gaurantee you will never have had your bike accellerate that fast.
For a mile i'd walk.
So are you going to be yet another example ignoring cycle paths and risking death by truck. By riding alongside the cycleroutes on the road.
Keep it up. Most dt tuning stories are depressingly uninspired. Yours is a real treat. Subtle but very much sympathetically modified to improve the bike as a whole.
Well excecuted too.
I have always wondered if a LH barrel from a tzr 250 would work? Looks close.
I feel for yamhead. That MRSA has taken people from my own family. I had to watch it destroy my mother in law, and nearly my missus as she struggled basically watching her mum die a bit at a time over 6 months. Brings a tear to my eye even now. So I thank you not to throw those kind of statements around I know exactly what yamheads family will be going through. God knows he will need all the help he can get to get through it.
But it dont alter the fact that about 30 to 40mile is about as far as I have got up to now and still cant ride the dt. Seeing as I was told I may have to stop riding altogether getting to Squires is quite a bonus.
The upchange is easy. For the downchange you need the revs much lower than you expect. Just above idle if you can manage it.
I got a unit and trailer back from plymouth without a clutch. Thats a 16speed 400hp truck and trailer. Admittedly empty but still a challenge. Fitters wouldnt believe it till they checked the time on the fault code.....
Steel that has rusted in situ firming small pinholes blocked by rust.
The paint prep will have cleaned them out. Por 15 or similar ethanol proof sealer will permanantly fix it.
I had to do the tank on my tdr. I could not risk the paint on that either as it was mint and original.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390185333984?redirect=mobile
This looks much better. Far better quality. Up .5 for rebore.
The wemoto is cheap pattern part. Will work but will not perform as well.
Wont work. The tank is compromised your only option is to seal it with, and this is important. An ethanol proof lining treatment.
Anything else and you will be chasing leaks as the metal has been damaged by water and ethanol.
The upside is the paint will be fine save the current leak spot.
Not an expert but my understanding is the OLD as in f g plate dt125s were the ones that were restricted. Boy they flew.
The latest ones are making the power they are designed to and you are actually tuning it rather than finding trapped power. All you may actually be doing is stacking what power you have in a smaller band so it FEELS quick. But not making more. That is most deffinately the effect of disconnectIng the pv
Do a search tuning dts has been done extensively. Airhead ran a comprehensive thread about it a while ago.
Back in the days of steam I cut the inlet rubber on my dt175 and fitted the, at the time, sooper dooper fibre reeds.
Know whats in it now?
Stock rubber and reeds and it runs a darn sight better for it.