Cynic

Did you let the engine vent first or just fill the rad and be done with it. You need to run the engine without the rad cap to bleed out the air trapped in the system typically behind the thermostat.

Bet he used one with his boat?

Hardly butting in, thread ended in 2009. Use the wanted area.

Yep, as said. Clean carbs and good fuel in this situation. No short cuts either.

Leave it alone, those engine are ridiculously reliable. If that engine went bang in 10 miles then whoever built it started with a dud. There are several threads on here from people who have tried to find good second hand 650 and535 lumps, the ones that are out there are not cheap.

When was the last time it started normally?

Went for the Michelins, pr5's. Bit of luck though, the guy ordering the tyres said they were for a vmax while he was doing the order. After the eternal "They are not vmax sizes" talk. He said they were for a modified bike with aftermarket wheels. That's when he was told about the pilot road5 GT, same compound but stiffer construction, ie designed specifically for land tanks like the max. Well any big heavy torquey sports tourer/ muscle bike. Certainly work, a quick round the block blast had me close to catching the pegs.

Easiest is to buy a manual. You need one for the bike anyway. Clymer have a special atm 15 quid.

Is the cable fitted correctly at the twist grip, its possible that the cable is in the wrong notch. Some have a push pull set up and its common for yam to use the same parts across the company. I think i would check the twistgrip, might be worth a lookie see in the connection midway where the oil pump connects with the throttle. Some self adjust, could also be jamming. Dont try and shorten the outer, you will never cut it clean enough to not damage the internal cable. Your right fitting the carb slide the wrong way round is a very popular cock up.

Jesus that's cheap, the 180/55 knocks in at over 150 quid on its own. From the online jockeys as well, so you will have to sort fitting and postage. From a (well known to me) bike shop it felt like a good deal, hell it is a good deal. Was it for a 120/180 combo.

Ok, spoke to the tyre man today, function wins out over form this time, the pirelli looks prettier but he said the latest pr5 is one of those (big step) moments. The 5 is supposedly at half worn, as good as the outgoing pr4 brand new. Time will tell. Will be fitted Thursday. 300 quid fitted and balanced to loose wheels.

I might go with that, Windoview near Airgate for us as a holiday this year too.

Honest, they were worn odd even then. Bad pressures i think. Ridden under probably as the centres have worn less than the sides (including the front) super light wheels and radials makes for a 'firm' ride until you really shift and maybe the po ran them soft dunno, give no faith in a turn as you get a falling feeling. With so much more rear tyre under you it should be the opposite. Spins easy too. Rear has a repair in it and now the front is not holding pressure. Don't have to wait any longer now a couple of bike shops have (kind of) opened up near me. Pirelli (which is metz) or Michelin.... ?

The wheels on my max are some superlight German alloys, friction welded apparently. the 180 wheel with tyre and drive hub weighs less (lot less) than a stock rear wheel on its own. The build means the valves are offset so air is easy. Nut squeezingly expensive apparently. Makes you wonder when a set of dymags will cost you a couple of grand and they are far more common. Why I'm after what you guys feel with the bigger bikes. i have only had tiddlers except the 600, a 250 for the last decade, nothing close to this heavy and another universe as far as torque/power is concerned. 120 on the front 180 on the rear. The stomp is still addictive, wish they had given her 6 gears though.

No worries,

The tyres on my max are dead, im thinking Michelin pilot road 5 is the one to go with but it looks a bit naff, works well though. The Pirelli angel st looks the nuts, but have no idea if its any good mileage wise as max's destroy tyres at the best of times. The (dying) pr3's i have on spin at the first opportunity. Wondering what you guys with the big bikes prefer, Jimmy, slice, Dutch etc as they will be close tyre abuse wise. Cheers

Yep, im rebuilding my dads CB175 but its painfully slow. Stuff i have ordered can literally take weeks to arrive just stuck in the system somewhere. Plus the already mentioned charges. Paying for next day in no means guarantees it will take less than a week. But it does mean it will be a bit quicker. Slowed things down a lot.

I would expect so, you should expect some work though. Is the 500 not fitted with a drum rear brake? That could be a complication. The front brake disks may need swapping or the caliper mounts adjusting. Just depends on your spanner skills.

Good to see someone so grounded.

Amen to that, Scotch trip might be tricky though. Think Jimmy Crankie has them locked up still. The lockdown rules are different over the border. John? .

Having followed that triple, sure the 'thunder in the glen' wasn't you?

Quite often its a choice between the 2, pillion or luggage. Either because of space, or the tail is built down to the minimum to be light. Get the pillion to wear a backpack.

7 years old, I suppose the injector could do with a clean. There are a few people who have ridden a lot of miles on the lil ybr. So info should soon be forthcoming. Considering the epic your planning on I have to admit, I would have gone with an older bike with a carb. One can of bad fuel in some middle of nowhere hole and your stuck. With a carb you can fix it anywhere.

Strange first post, will there be more nuggets of info, maybe the whole code series. A motorcycle whodunnit of error codes..?

Sounds pretty normal to me too, not even a lot of top end noise. Have you had the bike long, im guessing its a recent buy?