Cynic

You need to turn detective. Anything can fit anything if you have enough cash. doing it for sensible money is the skill. I have Aprilia wheels in my TDR250, with a rear sprocket from their 750 twin. In my case i felt from the specs i could find it should fit and worst case i could just re sell them so long as i bought for the right price. As far as it goes forks are a pretty generic distance apart. Not to the mm but its roughly 6 inches or so for the wheel and maybe another 2 for the spacer and spedo drive at the front so front wheels are not too bad. Newer bikes dont have a spedo drive and switching braking systems completely can be complicated and may need the full legs then you have the issue of length and spring rate too. Rears again are pretty similar if you break it down. this is more like 8 to 10 inches plus spacers. Wheels are the same set up, cush drive and hub. The skill is getting the wheels centred, cush drives are easier to machine to line up chains and are relatively expendable for the most part. Its easier to fit top hat sleeves in wheels with bigger bearings than sort smaller or weird sized bearings, so fitting wheels from a 750 to a 400 will be easier. Not forgetting ofc, its a 125, keep your cash in your pocket for your next bike would be best. But then i never followed any of that and have modified every bike i have ever had. Spent a bloody fortune on the current one.

Halooo, still here, comment every so often. Need a meet, last proper one was Wales, there was a bit of a meet up, me and Paul with some of Andy's mates at the pub near Matlock.

Smaller valves and softer cam timing will also work with smaller tbs for better torque. s the FZ is the sports variant and likely to race, a manual cam chain adjustment weighs less and is more reliable, if more labour intensive.

Agreed, but many people do go gorilla on plugs for some unknown reason, or worse put them in dry, we all know thats a bad idea from our own personal spark plug. The first time on my v max i could not get enough force on the box spanner in the toolkit so had to get a bit serious. They came out but cracking them off was scary. Who does plugs up that tight?

On my vmax i have a socket i have ground down to fit better. There are only a few plug sizes, check on the bench that the plug fits the inside of the socket you have then grind it down till it fits. Not scientific but works. There must be a socket that fits, not wanting to cast doubt on the nay sayers that called for a new head. The blindingly obvious fact is, someone put the plugs IN. They would not have done that without a socket.

250 is bigger than you get in a tdr 250, way too much. We were only using 220 maybe 230 in fully de restricted 30hp tzr's back in the day.

You cannot look at it from a numbers game, the bike as is, its a boat anchor. All its good for. If the rest of the bike is good and has years in it and you plan on keeping it for a couple of seasons then selling, 300 quid (plus can) is not the end of the world. You will get some back in improved resale by being able to prove no exup issues. If you were undecided on spending that on a new fairing panel against mending the old one, fair do's. But an exhaust, i would have bought it already.

Getting some greek sun then, have fun. Planning on nipping down to the Southern Comfort rally in a couple of weeks. Prob just for the Saturday.

Thread is a decade old. op only checked in twice.

Think brake disks from metal will work better... Could not resist, I'll get my coat.

Yes ride them both, although it will be skewed by the fact the r6 will feel like a ferrari back to back so probably ride the r3 first.

Commuting to london i think i would take the r3 of the two. The r6 will be a very frustrating bike to ride in built up areas with heavy traffic. Constantly resisting the bikes need for speed as they come alive as it were quite high in the rpm. The r3 being a twin will give you a more relaxed trip and being able to use much more of the engine will be a better ride. Real world on real roads unless your being a complete arse neither bike will be any quicker outside of a trackday. Depends if you can cope with all the "oh you should have bought....." from the spectator gallery. In my opinion, for a city commute, an old divvy600 or fazer for 500 quid would be my choice for city/commuting work. Putting miles on it wont matter, will scrape 50mpg and if you fall off on a slippy roundabout in the rain. Who cares.

Have sent a pm, Don't like posting ignition related info in open forum.

What about the high output, did you check the lead and the cap/plug. Coil dont normally 'just die'. especially being a single it would be gradually worse intil it died. Something simpler, check the wiring, earths to the engine in particular. Ig switch too.

Noise is faster than the rear wheel. Don't like saying it but if the carrier bearing had destroyed its self but the wheel bearings were good. You could be looking at an output shaft bearing...

? Ebay is awash with them, some even with disc's and good tyres.

Done anything to the chain? Is it lubed, correctly tensioned?

Was the noise there before the service?

Can't do the 21st weekend either. Other than that just got to see what I can get from work. Will call that pub merv highlighted and see what they cost. For end of May.

I think i have an old carb body you can have, you will need to put your parts into it and such. Let me know if you dont find anything.

How would fuel leaking be down to the ignition circuit... Fuel issue is down to the carbs, something is off, with carbs it dont need to be by much.

Start a clean thread of your own, much better and people will be more likely to see it. Good luck with it.

Great, thanks for letting us know.

If you did we would have to take it straight off. Due to copyright law only public domain can be posted or linked to. That means no manuals etc. Blame the lawyers.