Cov_AL

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Any luck?

I've had a couple of alarmed disc-locks - and i have to say, they're one of the best inventions! The first on I had was a Xena, which was good, but had a tendancy to go off when it rained. batteries were a pack of 6 button type in a little plastic holder. The second was a "Abus - Detecto 8000" (I've got the "granit detecto"- which comes with the chain as well) - THIS ONE ROCKS! No problem in the wet, nice and loud, runs off a couple of AAA type batteries (first set lasted over two years) and the chain that goes with it is very beefy indeed. - They're small enough to fit under your seat (or in your pocket - although the good ones are a bit heavy for that) - Quick and easy to use - and the best bit is, You'll never try to ride away with it on, as (if you've forgotten about it) it'll go off when you start the engine! I'd recommend the Abus to everybody!

I loved my little 125Drag, it managed alright 2-up aswell. A bit slow, but that gives people longer to look enviously at you riding along...

I hope for your sake this isn't the problem, but when I had the 125 it happened to me and I've heard of a few others too... Check the crankshaft. It seems a batch of 125 dragstars came into england a few years ago with "dodgy" crankshafts, fortunatly mine was still under warrenty at the time. Worth checking out...

Yeah, I've got a new ss bolt and nyloc nut, just gotta drill out the old stud (indoors at work, or at home in nicer weather) I figured I'd tap the hole and I've got some red loctite to help hold it in place...

I got my shiney new Highway Hawk solo rack yesterday! (and what a lovely sunny day it was) - so off with the pillion seat, pillion pegs and the saddlebag supports while I'm at it... everything is cleaned and copper-greased... and just as I'm tightening up the the last nut (the M6 that normally holds the pillion seat on at the back) POP - it comes off Damn! So I pop upto my local shop - The stud is part of the "rear fender stay" (list price £46!?!) "could you drill it and put a bolt in for me?" I enquire - either way they'll want sixty odd quid!! Sod that! I'll do it myself... (only today it's raining ) *sulks in the corner*

Why would you bother? Just sell the 650 and buy an 1100! It'd cost you more to convert a 650, and make it safe to ride - than to get your hands on an 1100... If you want to go custom, start with the engine and go from there! + I SECOND TTASKMASTERS COMMENT ABOUT TYPING IN ALL CAPS, lol.

Try using 'muc-off' bike cleaner, works a treat and means it takes me 10-15 minutes to clean, oil and polish my bike!

Get in touch with your local VSOC and they're bound to help!

I'd expect the adjustment to be ON the lever, so can't say much if it's not in the pic... When you take it for a service you need to check what they're gonna do, and tell them anything you definetly need doing. For example saying "filters and fluids" - should get you oil, brake fluid, oil filter and air filter change, but probably not a fuel filter, fork oil or final drive oil (on shaft drive bikes) unless you specify it...

What wire? it's hydraulic... no wire, just hoses and brake fluid.

You might need to replace the brake fluid - how long since it's been changed last? it's a cheap and easy job - it's worth doing every 6 months or so and especially if your brakes feel unresponsive in any way! Does it feel a bit spongy when you brake? could be moisture or air in the system (change the brake fluid) Does it have the right grade brake fluid? it comes in "dot" grades 3, 4, 5, 5.1, 6 - you probably want grade 4 - but check your manual or your local bike shop should be able to tell you. Did you work out how to adjust the lever? if not - take a pic of it and we should be able to point it out.

A little copper grease/anti-seize on the back of the pad (the metal bit that touches the piston) should stop that noise - be very careful not to get any on the pad itself or the disc! There is always a little bit of warping of a break disc, this is how the pads return after breaking. So essentially the pads will always touch the high spot...

Whoa! It's not oil - its break fluid (hydraulic fluid) DON'T PUT OIL IN YOUR BREAK SYSTEM!!! Before you adjust your brake leaver - check your pads, It really comes down to how you ride/brake more than the distance you've done... See the lines on the pads? They are indicator lines, if you can still see them - you've got enough pad left. You should be able to see the edges of the pads just by looking down between the brake caliper and the brake disc. - just to complicate things, not all pads have these helpful lines. in any case you should have at least 1mm of pad all round) Now for the leaver - some have a dial on them, like this: Where you just turn the dial to adjust. others will have a screw to adjust like this: or this: And guess what? you just screw it to adjust... has that helped?

First of all - welcome to the forum. Hope you enjoy your stay... As for your wires - they connect to the Carb heaters, and it should be in your haynes - have a look at the wiring diagrams.

On an ngk plug, the last number should tell you the gap size (as in 0.Xmm)

In the stcok 650 pipes there are 3 baffles, drilling out part of the final one makes very little difference - so there isn't really any need to rejet, especially on such an agricultural engine. I've done about 20,000km since I drilled mine - and it hasn't caused any problems yet!

Any chance of some new pics of the bike Goff? I'm still pining for one... I take it you've done a fair few miles on it now that we've had some nice weather?

Just check if the side stand bolt loose, nipping that up may solve your problem.

quick tip: check the connectors for corrosion as it can increase the resistance and cause a dimmer bulb!

Cheers, I picked up a second set of pipes on eBay, so if it all went wrong I wouldn't be stuck. Then sanded the chrome down and drilled the baffles - then applied a few coats of Plasti-kote stove paint There are other high temp black paints out there - but I picked that up at B&Q...

What do you mean by compression started? Bump started?? (push it along and then bump it into gear?) $120 is A LOT for a battery, in the UK you'd be looking at £12 (less than $20) As for sourcing stuff - Try eBay... I've had some bargains on leatherware from http://www.jafrum.com/

We've got the custom 650, as opposed to your classic... What are you using to host your pics? photoshop? flickr?