atocp

Hi again all, Been tinkering with the bike, now finally got the engine rebuilt, back in and set up, and the new spokes for the rear wheel arrive tomorrow, so should have it ready to ride by tuesday. However, the final touches are being purchased and put on (tax disc holder, new exhaust gasket etc). But I was looking into a side stand, as mine doesn't have one. Can I ask, did the YB100 come with a side stand when manufactured? Several sites seem to sell the "Side stand bolt" or "Side stand spring". I understand that the spring is probably just the same as the main stand (maybe slight size difference), but I can't seem to find the stand anywhere, so why sell the bolts? Can someone maybe point me towards what size the side stand was or if it was special in any way? I was looking at a universal side stand, but they seem to clamp on, and I can't see from the picture how it bolts on. (motorcycleproducts.co.uk). They also come in small, medium and large. Any help of a little information is always greatly appreciated, as I've been through the haynes manual and the schematics looking for the item codes to order from yamaha, but the schematics only show the main stand. Thanks again, atocp I popped on some photos of the front wheel after it was restored, so once the back wheel is done i'll post a couple of pix of the 'finished/complete' bike.

Not sure if it helps, but when I got my Yamaha YB100, I sent a letter to Yamaha Customer Service Department in the UK. They were able to confirm that the serial number I gave them was a specific model, when it was made, the year of first registration and the first plate it was registered with. I know that's the UK, but I'd imagine Yamaha in the US will have the same abilities. You could try firing a letter off to them or give them a call/email. From there you would be able to find out common colours etc. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/corporate/contactus.aspx Hope that helps, atocp

aaaahhhh, wish i'd known that before i started to respoke the wheel. i take it its not going to matter too much, as they'll bend and settle under the pressure of the tightening of the nipple...and over time? I bought 15 new spokes to replace 5 I broke in deconstruction, and give me some extra for breakages on the rear wheel and badly damaged/pitted ones. Central Wheels supplied me with pattern spokes based on a sample spoke I sent them. The closest I could get for looks and matching was 10gauge unpolished stainless steel. But unfortunately because I only sent them one spoke, they all came back the same as it. aw well, just when you think its all going swimmingly....one little thing trips you up....then proceeds to kick you in the stomach while you're on the ground, laugh and point, then run away with your high school sweetheart. i don't like bike restoration anymore. cheers, a

thanks airhead, and thanks for the previous advice. yeah drewpy, im tempted to give it to one of the guys in work top save myself the hassle, but im going to give it a go first. the worst i can do is make it the same as it is just now. only problem i've faced so far was the spokes were 50/50 split between 90 degree and a more obtuse angle. but now the split isn't 50/50, as the new spokes were all 90 degrees. so some of them don't seem to sit right, or have a slightly bent spoke. i was told this will go away, and the spokes may need tightened when it does. here's hoping. cheers.

hey drewpy, its partly trued at the moment, in a "using the eye and ear" method. but I work part time in a sports shop that does bike repairs, so im gonna take it in and get one of the guys to quickly true it on their jig. i didn't realise how much of a pain respoking it would cause, that was by far the most annoying. cheers

Hey guys and girls, As I said I would I thought I would post up the pictures of my front wheel that I have restored myself. It is not restored fully, as Im skint and I was quite happy with it looking good, not perfect. As you can see from the before and after pix, I have buffed the rim, removing most of the rust, but not touching the chrome. No way was I gonna get it rechromed. I also bought a 370W bench grinder with soft brass buffing wheel, sisal wheel, colour mop and 2 cloth buffing mops. Along with some brown and blue compound. The spokes were restored using the crimped brass wire wheel and colour mop. All nipples were replaced with nickel coated brass, and 5 broken spokes replaced. Big thanks to Richard Hoyland from Central Wheels and spokes and nipples I bought, I thoroughly recommend them! The hub was stripped down and brass wire ground, then wire woolled and wet and dry papered with WD40. Final buffing with the sisal, colour and buffing mops and compound, then prepped and sprayed with Simoniz Silver Engine Enamel. I baked them in the oven to cure them. Cheers to all the people who gave me little bits of advice before I started, all the advice was used!! Rims before and after. The nipples were almost rusted to breaking point. Spokes before and after. Weren't pitted much, just needed cleaned well. Hub before and after. Original BRAKE LINE sticker was kept and restuck! Hub and brake lever polished with grinder and hub sprayed. Word of caution, don't drop the hub once its resprayed. Causes all kinds of heartache. A few words to anyone wishing to tackle this kind of simple project. 1. Its well worth it. 2. Don't drop anything once you've sprayed it. 3. Take photos before dismantling. I did, but it was still murder trying to respoke it. 4. A small cheap bench grinder (mine was a 370W Draper - 55quid!) can do pretty much anything on Earth. 5. No matter how bad things go, there's always a professional somewhere that can fix it, so give it a go, see point 1. cheers all, atocp

thanks for the advice. i'll buff them up and see how they look. i might buy another can and do 2 or 3 extra coats to make future restoring easier. i'll post the results of when im done to give others a look. cheers, atocp

would you lacquer on top of the paint, to give it the extra clear coat protection, or would you just do few sprays of the paint and leave it?

Thanks DirtyDT, I wish i had given it 5 more hits before panicing and resorting to asking for help. If I had kept going as I was, the bearing and cap would have come out with a half a dozen more hits. Instead, I thought "this aint coming out, im gonna break something...better ask incase". I got it off, and i've stripped the paint off the hub down to bare metal. Now for a good polish to get it to shiny metal...then make the decision......Lacquer the shiny metal....or paint with silver engine enamel for the original look. That last point there, metal or paint is where the hardest part will come.......any suggestions/personal preferences, as i'm still unsure. Thanks again for the help, atocp

Hi Dt502001, Thanks for the fast reply. I was working them out but the bearing collapsed in on itself which made me wonder if there was something sticking. I'll give it another go with some more force. Thanks for the help, I'll let you know how it goes. atocp

Hi everyone, I have tried my best to follow the Haynes manual, and have managed to get one bearing out of the front hub, but the other won't budge. At least, the bearing probably will, but the rubber cover wont. Can anyone tell me if there is a trick to removing it, or is it just push fit and needs more force? Here is the black rubber hub dust cover that i mean... Many thanks for the help. I am waiting for an aluminium polishing kit coming in through the post for my grinder, so i'll pop up the results for the rims, spokes and hubs when its all shiny. Thanks, atocp

Hey there Camm, I just took ages trying to get a 7mm (thanks airhead) stud out of my engine block. i found 2 mole grips, couple of inches apart (1 close to the bottom) worked quite well as it gave more surface area and could be leveraged together (close to the bottom so the stud doesn't twist. those two, some wd40 and a blowtorch to try and expand the hole around the bottom of the stud work well. but in the end, it was a 6mm stud extractor (you can buy a 6,8,10,12 set for around £20), 2 torque bars end on end (to give me around 40cm of a lever for the extractor) and the blowtorch that won out. watch if you are using mole grips, as I found my stud was destroyed as even the tightest grips will slip and shred the surface of the metal. hope that is of some help, atocp

here's me thinking it was 6.7mm......see what i highlighted... haha. i've just bought the (extremely hard to get hold of) M7 kit, i'll let you know how it all goes. atocp

i tried that, but unfortunately it didn't really suggest a size. Yamaha-90116-07035. M080731Y. But i checked the schematic and it didn't reveal any extra info. I'll pop onto ebay and get some M7's and give it a go. Thanks again, atocp

Thanks again Airhead. I'll buy some M7 helicoils and give it a go. The worst that can happen is im left using the epoxy weld, which was crazily strong first time round. It was the 4 cylinder head studs on the YB100 that i was having problems with. Cheers again, atocp

Hey Airhead, thanks for the reply. can you not get sizes in between for any kind of thread repairs? what happens when you can't accept a tolerance of something between say an M6 and an M7, is there another way to fix a thread like this when you are stuck with a specific stud size? many thanks again, atocp

Hi all, I posted a couple of years ago about an engine block that I had stripped the threads off where the stud goes in. I repaired it using Epoxy Steel Weld (which was amazing, actually took 2 mole grips, a stud extractor, 50cm lever and a blowtorch to remove!!). However, I have decided to replace the studs and need to drill out and put in a Heli-Coil thread repair. My problem is this....using a digital calliper, I measured the diameter of the stud as 6.25mm. The diameter of the threaded ends was ~6.7mm. I didn't measure the pitch. I can't use an M6 helicoil because it'll be too tight. What size should I be looking for, as Heli-coil's seem to come in the metric M5, M6, M7 sizes, and don't really cover the 6.25mm or 6.7mm size that this stud seems to be. In fairness, the epoxy weld was sooooopper strong, so it's still a last resort, but i'd rather use a tap and die set and repair the thread. Many thanks for any help you can give me on this. Bit by bit, im slowly getting there. Thanks, atocp

Hey DirtyDT, Thanks for the info on how much it might cost for the complete new wheels. Looking at it, I might be able to get away with new nipples and spokes, and do the hub myself. I went out and got some super fine steel wool and wet and dry paper, also gonna look at some 'original' silver paint.. I'm also gonna ask a question on the engine studs, but I'll open a new thread for that. Cheers again guys for the help! atocp

Thanks for the help. I'm going to pop to B&Q just now and buy some fine steel wool and give them a go. I've also looked at respoking them, and it looks like 65 quid per wheel (including nipples) which in all fairness, isn't too bad, especially as I'll be gaining the easier polished stainless steel. As for the very slight rust on the rims and poor condition of the paint on the hubs, should I just go ahead and do the same with #0000 steel wool and rust remover? There are a few tutorials on cleaning up the hubs using increasingly finer wet and dry paper which might be good, but should I paint in the standard silver afterwards, or go laquer and keep the polished looks? This is, again, more down to opinion because it's about looks, but as I don't really have a desire either way, im interested to hear what others would do, or feel is the more 'original' way to restore....rather than renovate? Mnay thanks again for the help and advice, to B&Q I go. Thankfully they're open till 9. atocp

Hi All, I thought I'd pop on to ask a quick question about restoring the spoked wheels of my Yamaha YB100. The first thing I would like to know would be more of an opinion, do you think the wheels actually need restoring? I will - in the future - take them apart and acid dip them, buff and polish and (depending on the extortionate costs) have them chromed, but for now I wonder if they are in ok condition to carry on with. I don't have an MOT for it, in fact the last one i think was around 15 years ago and was wondering if that is something that is looked at hard? Condition of spokes "rusty" = "dangerous"? I have attached (I hope successfully) a few photos just to show you what the spokes and hub are like. If the photos haven't attached, the gallery is in my dropbox... https://www.dropbox....eyzz/We08LaFvlG Second part is what would you do to restore them? Rust remover and wire brush? Acid dip/Rust remover bath and laquer them once down to the metal? Fine #0000 steel wool and hard graft as some car restorer's suggest? I'd like it to be on the cheap side for now, till I have the time and money to do it all properly, for now, I'd just like it to be safe and look ok. Many thanks for any advice you can give me. I am restoring it bit by bit, and currently have the engine out replacing stubborn studs and the piston. The frame is good, just surface rust that needs blasted and resprayed I think, but you are more than welcome to correct me if I'm talking boll*cks. Thanks again, and apologies for the long winded post. atocp

Cheers Tony for the advice. I shall pop buy machine mart or the likes tomorrow. My fear is that even with the gauge, im not going to get the contact points accurate enough as it's fiddly trying to use the .356mm gap thingy as TDC is reached. More high quality tool naming there, you can feel the professionalism in my motorcycle engineering skills here. Is it also worthwhile to save time, once the timing is finished, to mark the magneto with a score to show where exactly where TDC is, on the magneto and back plate? As that point is never going to change. Cheers, atocp

Hi there, Cheers Jebb for the help. I have managed to get the contact points opening. It seems the contact points wouldn't 'reach' down far enough to be pushed. So after a little force, and a tightening of the screw, it seems to work. Next question is, should top dead centre be when the contacts are just opening, at some point while they are open, or when they are at there most open. I would imagine as long as the points are open, and there is a spark, it doesn't matter, as the piston is close enough to TDC, but I was curious as to what it is meant to be. Again, the help is very much appreciated. atocp

Hey there, thanks for the speedy reply. I bought the contact points as a direct replacement, and they seem to be exactly the same. I was looking here http://www.dansmc.com/points1.jpg at the image and I think i understand it. The cam spins round, and pushes the cam follower up, opening the points. Is this correct. If that is the case, is the cam on the inside shaft of the magneto, or is it a separate element, as the inside of the magneto seems to be very smooth!! This use to work with the last contacts, so I might have to put them back on and see if they open. If it is cam or the new contacts. Thanks again. I shall go out and check it all now. Atocp

Hello all, Its been a little while since I last posted here. I've had scaffolding in my garage, so not much room to work on my bike. And I also just started back to university, so it's been a busy time. But I have finally gotten round to trying to fix the ignition problems with my yb100. I have decided to fit new contact points. Although the old ones's dont look bad, I have new ones, so they may as well go on. This is where I have hit a brick wall. When I refitted the magneto, I tried to set the timing using an electric voltimeter (and screwdriver for TDC). But before I even got to setting the points, I have a problem. The contact points don't open, at all. When I set the screw holding the points to the plate at its leftmost, they don't open, nor do they when I set it to the rightmost. Or anywhere in between. What actually causes them to open? Is it a static buildup? Or is it simply pushing them open as the magneto spins past. I can't quite figure it out, because I can't see what would physically push it! Another thing is the Haynes book of lies tells me that the voltimeter will 'deflect' just before it reaches TDC, just as the contacts open. But what would happen on a digital one, as there's no needle? Any help is much appreciated Atocp

Hey guys, I've 'glued' the rod into the engine block where the threads had been stripped. I would just like to take this opurtunity to praise the wonders of Plastic Padding's Super Epoxy Steel Weld. My goodness I'm going to use that for everything. It really is amazing how strong that stuff is!!! Anyways, enough of that. The same problem is happening. The suggestion of the timing being out is the next thing for me to try and fix. Although not having a TDC gauge might cause it to be slightly less accurate. I'm going to try two methods: 1. The, stick a screwdriver in it and when it's pushed its furthest out, that's TDC approach has been suggested by my mechanic brother. 2. The other, my own personal favourite, "Clamp, nut and bolt gauge" uses a long bolt being slowly unscrewed outwards until TDC is found, then screwing it in the smallest fraction so i can hear when the cylinder bore 'hits' it. This is just an update, so i'll let you guys know how well both of these work. Unless anyone has another simple way to do it. I've also bought new contact points so hopefully that'll help. Cheers for the support, I'll hopefully have it reliable soon!!! atocp