atocp

Where did I get it from or how did I measure it? I got it from the Haynes manual, and I measured it using a dial indicator positioned inside the spark plug hole. I took the side off the engine and found that the gasket had torn and wasn't in great condition since I last replaced it. Strangely it hasn't been run since it was fitted. Anyways, I've ordered up a new gasket set (may as well change some others over while the engine is off. However, I did notice that the oil wasn't too clean, and it was brand new oil in 2 years ago. I know that sounds like a long time, but bear in mind for almost 2 years its been sitting in a garage and hasn't moved. So, I'm going to dissasemble the clutch plates and surounding bits and just have a general check over to make sure there's no damage causing the build up of 'shavings'/dirt. atocp

Ok. Will do. As I say, I'll have it off at the weekend if im not hungover. Yeah, I've had that off a few times. Replaced the contact points and condenser. And set the gap to 0.35mm @ 1.8mm BTDC, as it says in the haynes. Getting a good spark, so even if the timing was out slightly, the fuel would still go pop. Everything else in there was in very good condition for the age. atocp

Hahaha, yeah, you and me both!! I don't mean because it was overflowing it isn't being drawn in, I just meant I can eliminate everything from petrol cap down to the float chamber. My problem with the fuel starts there, so between float chamber and cylinder. So im thinking blockage or something. I stuck my nose right into the spark plug hole and couldn't smell any fuel, and the spark plug was bone dry. As I say, I can't try and start it now, as Im going to have to strip it down and possibly get a new gasket in place. Least it'll make it easier to get to and clean the carb while the engine is off. atocp

so. it turns out the cylinder wasn't flooded. in fact, no fuel was getting to it. the fuel was flowing down to the carb and then out the over flow pipe. which to me suggests dirty jet/carb?? unfortunately, while trying to start it today i got a loud sharp pop....and oil started dripping quickly out the bottom of the crankcase. looks like the gasket, as I can't see any cracks, but Im going to have a strip down at the weekend when i have some more time. if its not one thing, its another!! atocp

Hey Airhead, thanks for the evapouration tip. Completely forgot to do that! I put on a new piston head and rings, as I accidentally broke one of the rings when I was inspecting the small end bearings recently. So new piston head and two new rings. Someone once told me that if I liked it I should put a ring on it. So i put two on, just in case. It hasn't started in 2 years. And back when it did, the timings and everything were so far out that it wasn't ticking over for long. So its been stripped and put back together clean. I didn't have any parts left over, so Im pretty sure its all together right. Cheers, atocp

So I got to the stage of putting in fuel, oil and a well charged battery. And then, kicked the poor wee thing to death. I started to get angry. I really shouldn't have, it didn't deserve it that much and it went from 6.7v down to 4.3 very quickly, so I had to stop. It has a new air filter, the fuel is coming out the excess drain tube (I know that isn't a sign its getting to the cylinder, but im going to check that tomorrow) and the battery when I started was 6.7v. It did pop a few times, and its a new spark plug, so there is a spark (again, i'll check the quality and wetness tomorrow). This question is really more of a way to set the scene for the innevitable question i'll be asking tomorrow. I don't trust the wiring loom that is in it. Does dropping down in the voltage so quickly (6.7-4.3v in 3mins kickstarting), and a severe lack of any sound of starting point to a possible wiring problem, like a grounding wire? Secondly, I have the haynes manual, and the 3 wiring diagrams it supplies doesn't seem to fit what I have. What are the chances that mine would be different from all of the 3 that are printed in the manual (no modifications)? Unfortunately it's going to be hard to get a brand new wiring loom, but if need be, im going to get some new wire and rewire the entire bike at the weekend. So close, I can almost smell the oily smoke coming out of the 'silencer'. But right now, all I can smell is pure unleaded petrol, kickstarting induced sweat and the stench of failure. Its not a good mix. Thanks to anyone that can offer up a possible problem this 2-stroke is having. As I say, new filter, fuel is flowing and it should be sparking. Many thanks, atocp

Thank you all for illuminating this poorly known topic....of bulbs. I've bought a 21/5W to take the place of the stop/tail light, but anyone else got any bright ideas?

Keep'em coming!

aaaahhh....totally didn't think of two filaments. thank you. you have certainly brightened up my evening. and not turned me on too much. many thanks NE0

Hello guys and girls, I am not the brightest when it comes to figuring out simple things. I've been trying to google and search for a meaning, but I can't seem to find one. Maybe I'm just being dim. Can someone suggest what the numbering for a bulb is? E.g. 6v 17/5.3. I know it is a 6V, and its either going to be a 17W or a 5.3W...or magically both - maybe under different conditions? But I am trying to buy a tail light bulb for my YB100. Wem*to have already supplied the wrong order once, and checking their site doesn't give you the details of what bulb you are buying, but the Haynes book of en'light'enment tells me its a 6V 17/5.3W. Should I be buying a 6V say 17 or 18W....or a 5 or 6W? What does the other number mean? This is such a simple question, but I've tried to find an answer, and couldn't. Don't leave me in the dark. Help brighten up my day with an answer...oh, light of my life? Dazzle me with your genius and turn me on. Ok, I've taken that a bit too far. Sorry. Any quick answer is much appreciated, atocp

Yeah, if I c*ck up the wheel a 2nd time, Im going to take it to my old work. They are cycle repairs, but my friend there did the front wheel for me, and its good. He's also the one who trued it for me. Couldn't find any mention of the 7mm anywhere, and the haynes manual doesn't mention the mirrors. The 7mm stud's I bought when reassembling the cylinder head screw in perfectly. Might just have to go for 8 and force it a little, but I'll fire it through the MOT first.

Hi Adam, welcome! If you're restoring bits and bobs, the workshop is a great forum for advice. I've been given a lot of help from these fine folk. You could even consider creating a project in the project forum to detail your work start to finish for stuff....can even help with portfolio of your work in the future!! -atocp

Thanks DirtyDT. I was thinking that if I cover the whole of the inside of the rim, I can eliminate the possibility that the uneven rim surface might be causing it. It's most likely that I have pinched it and it's burst. However, a pinched inner tube wouldn't be a small hole, like a slow puncture, so its a little strange how it lasted for an hour before coming down. Maybe it's just my delicate touch . New tube is on its way anyways, along with new indicator lens. Didn't go for the mirrors, as although they are not part of the MOT, I seem to have 7mm threads on my bar, not the 8mm or 10mm that everyone sells.

Hi guys and girls, I recently respoked my wheels (laced both and trued the rear myself...so chuffed to bits!!) and replaced the nipples as well. I bought some rim tape on ebay, the little rubber band kind, which cover the nipples. However, today I went to put the rear tyre on and found that after I was done, and pumped up, it deflated after an hour. Now, this could have been a faulty inner tube (brand new) or I could have nipped it when I put the tyre back on (extremely likely) or it could have rubbed on the slightly rusty (although polished and smooth) inside of the rim. Here's the question....The rim tape I bought only covers the nipples. What do people use as rim tape to cover the complete inside? I've heard duct tape - but is a mess to clean off. Electrical tape - moves after a while. Rubber band (like what i've got) but I can't find any wide stuff. So what do people use to cover the inside of the rim? Any preferences or special tips? Any advice or suggestions are always welcome. As I've now got to wait for a new inner tube to be delivered Hope everyone is well, Cheers for any help, atocp p.s. once the wheel is on, I get to try to start the engine, buy a reg plate and ride off for an mot. That's all based on it starting tho.

Im quite the newbie when it comes to bike restoration and repair, but I often use Wemoto.com (http://www.wemoto.co...er_head_gasket/) , Motorcycleproducts.co.uk , ajsutton.co.uk , and yambits.co.uk . Hope that is of some use. Cheers, atocp EDIT: Also, ebay. Tons of gasket sets on there for lots of different things.

For some reason, half the text I wrote disappeared. What I said was... "As for bluetooth, the satnav 2nd edition has the ability to tether to your mobile phone using bluetooth for traffic updates over the phones data connection, however, can't appear to send navigation commands through the bluetooth to the headset. Check the manual search results for the info. atocp

Here's a 'How to' from the TomTom Website. It states that the TomTom ONE 2nd Edition and XL both have Itinerary Planning (assuming your V2 is actually the 2nd Edition, and not a software version 2!) http://uk.support.to...141,1399/c/2355 Click the second list of products containing 'ONE 2nd Edition' Check here for the manual...search bluetooth, 2nd bottom of search results in Adobe reader. atocp

Hi guys, Thanks for informing me of the extra knee protectors there. I've decided im going to try the 'hoik them up' method for a wee while, and see how i get on. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try modifying them myself, using good old sewing and ingenuity. Failing that, I can always fall back on using the strap on knee protectors. For the extra 20-50 for the knee protectors, I may as well try the other methods first and see how it goes. Thanks guys, atocp

Thanks for the info Ttaskmaster, Fortunately the courier that was meant to take back the Titan short leg today never showed up. As well as getting a reimbursement and free next pickup (to take back the Weise S-Type ) it means I'll get to try on the shorter leg again using your advice. Aw well, here's me hoping big companies like that would think of something more substantial to solve the problem, but I suppose they market to the majority. Thanks again for the help, atocp

Hi guys and girls, I have a clothing related question regarding the length of textile trousers. I have recently purchased a pair of Weise Titan sport 30' (short), but I found that the knee pads became shin protectors. I sent them back, and bought a pair of Weise S-Type 30' (regular) and they are pretty much the same. My question is this, does anyone know of smaller made trousers (similar style) or knee protectors that can be relocated? Or the second question is this, both those Weise trousers have zips to get access to the knee pads...and the knee pockets are much deeper than the need to be....would adjusting the knee protectors by adding on foam to the bottom to make them longer so they stand up from the bottom of the pocket be ok?? I am asking because the knee protectors are obviously useless if they aren't on my knees, but I am worried that buy clothing that needs to be modified from new isn't the route to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated.....btw, im 5"3.5'. The .5 makes a difference. Cheers all for the help, atocp

Hi Yamahappyuk, Cheers for that info. I will get an RXS100 stand and see if it all goes well then. If it doesn't for some reason, it's only a tenner, but knowing that fingers crossed it will be fine. Thanks again, atocp

Im going to go for a modern look. Im gonna put it through a pulley system and make it look like a car cam belt.

Yeah i've been looking for kick stands, side stands and now prop stands. Doesn't help that there are no drawings or information for it, or close up photos relating to it. Hi Airhead, yeah there is a mounting hole below the two bolts holding on the footrest bracket. Thats what's making me thing the RXS100 is the same style. Attached is a photo i just took of it. Ignore the bad paint and rust. Im saving up to buy the gear to shot blast it and respray it. Thats the future. Cheers, atocp

Hi DirtyDT, Thanks for the help. I saw on google images that a lot of bikes had a side stand, and a lot didn't. So i was unsure if they came as standard. Re-reading the haynes manual, it calls it a prop stand, which i hadn't noticed. Still doesn't have it in the schematics though. The photo you have supplied looks very similar to the RXS100 stand that I have seen, but I will go and have a look and see if the fizzy stand is a closer match. Thanks again, atocp

incidentally, looking at some websites, the Yamaha RXS100 side stand can be found quite easily, but I am unsure of the size compared to one that would fit onto the YB100. Does anybody know if there would be compatability? Cheers, atocp