JimR

It's an old one reged late .... but never mind if the dampers are not leaking the o/e could be stripped and serviced but as you say the Hagons could be good with the exception of the eye to eye length it could (I doubt it tho) cause the bike to steer oddly Regards Jim

There is a plus point for each bike ... which do you prefer ? Regards Jim

Fair Play !! RD on the out run DT on the home which seems to sort my previous comment ... modern DT riders like the bike but expect it to go as well as the road bikes when on the road but by the same token the 76 DT175 I had was great fun on the road but somewhat slower then the RD 200 ... it depends on what you want Regards Jim

Yep I have, the DT did not go as well as their road brothers (the lower gearing caused the problem I guess) so when you have an RD/TZ owner doing the same mods and after the initial acceleration do with the DT became insignificant on the road ... RD/TZ was well gone but go off road the tables are turned !!! perhaps some DT owners should have bought an RD in order to go fast on the road where in real terms green lanes are more their forte Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, dont forget that Rd owners could do the same mods and end up with the same problems !!!! stickey bits ... seem to go over my head ! Regards Jim

Hi & to the YOC. if the stand snapped there is a chance that the previous owners (or yourself ) did not put the bike on the stand correctly .... if you wish (not recomended) to do away with the fairing you will have to mount all the valves & electrics some where but tbh I have a scuffed 900 divi fairing that you can have while your own is repaired we do have in this area a guy who will do the plastic work but not the decals let me know if you need the fairing Regards Jim

Hi Sam, a 25 amp fuse in an RS100, when it should be a 10 amp thats asking for wire melt down . I would guess your problem lies with the white wire .... most likley broken under the bottom yoke but failing that it could be the white wire connection to the rectifier. I guess you have checked the normal ... bad battery earth, fluid in the battery .. green tack on the red or red/white wires by the battery box ... 25a fuse ... the mind boggles Regards Jim

I cannot see the point of this for the price of a cable unless you would really like to run a mix & adjust the jetting in order for the bike to run right. Take into account that the bike is a good few years old and parts will be worn so tricks from the past (when the bike was new) may no longer work correctly. I remember years ago following some hot mods for my YL1 (tbh I should have known better ) and the YL1 was distroyed in about 500 miles ... cause was the mods assumed the bike was not worn and did not give any margin for a bike that had been around the block a few times ... just be careful it may :rolleyes:cost a bit Regards Jim

So Balance the carbs & set the shims ... but not in that order job done Regards Jim

Hi I guess from 1M2-111791 you have a 78, assuming the bike has mono shock rear suspension and electronic ignition. If the bike is twin shock and points this would point to an earlier bike (which in the UK was not VIN plated & relied on the model code to id it). In the UK the DT250 was a bad seller so old stock continued from one year to the next. But looking at 1M2-111791this would indicate the second years production as there is little chance that 111791 units would have been assembled in one year from such a low volume seller Regards Jim

I'd go with the Jawa being awesome but I'll give you a ring some news to tell you Regards Jim

Hi, what do expect with an engine that was before it's time ?? if the 500 had been produced later it would have been sweet (newer tech) rather than the over size lump that played up at the drop of a hat Regards Jim

Hi, I would guess that to be a bit low but I guess with age the bike will not get a much higher reading without everything returned to factory (costly ) but I do think you may have some motor problems there Regards Jim

Hi, I had some 500's that would not idle below 2k and felt quite week in performance until high rpm was obtained and bad starting it turned out to be (in the case of the 2 part head model to be the secondary head gasket and in the case of the one piece head it turned out to be an intake valve with a 'cut' in its seat best way to check is to do a wet & dry compression check just to discount or include these causes of your problems. Regards Jim

I never worked on the FZR600 so I cannot comment on the adapter but I guess this is a good idea Just replace them at the latest @ 3000 miles along with good quality oil, but don't forget oil tech has moved on and a good synthetic/semi synthetic may not 'wear out' as quick as 70's/80's oil. If the original filters are cheap enough it would be a good idea to flush the system through using a new filter & discarding it afterwards, then using quality oil and another new filter, If I can track down the guy who replaced the original one with BLMC Mini (Austin) Have a look here at item HD05- Mini hard driver oil filter you may find this to fit ! Regards Jim

Hi, what bike was more recent the RXS ? as the RXS was the last in the line of RS single cylinder 2 strokes imported to the UK so if you applied a carb from a newer RXS that would be the same as the induction system over the RXS model range it did not alter i.e yeis was fitted to all years Regards Jim

Hi, Yamaha part numbers are built in the following ways :- 4L0-11181-00 First 3 the model originally used on next 5 the part number next 2 mod level so in this example 4L0 would be an 1980 RD350LC 11181 would be the head gasket & 00 would be no mods so therefore 4L0-11181-01 is a modified head gasket. But in your case you may find the 1M1-11610-30 is the correct part as the rings were originally used on the 1M1 DT250MX (UK) and was also used on the 2N6 bike (the first 3 digits changed sometimes yearly dependent on how many mods to the bike were done or the bike was for another country, L/h drive headlight, red flasher lenses etc) so the upshot is they may be the right rings esp if 2N6 is a later UK DT250 variant. I could ramble on about general part numbers (the ones that start with 9) but I guess you would have got bored by now Regards Jim

That is true but the arm just need shiming ( 2402212700 ) from here loadsa play at the rear wheel can be removed with a couple of extra shims and a few mins to fit Regards Jim

Hi, I guess a 5 speed CG ? try the four speed .. I've seen many a banana shaped push rod from them, along with gearbox problems but each to their own ! Regards Jim

Hi, Oh deer did you remember to bleed the oil system after you did Firstly, there was the dropped exhaust valve caper. Next, a broken float bowl. Then, another thousand miles of motoring before this: Started burning oil, so I got the barrel checked out and on good advice had a rebore done. Sr engine is good if repaired/serviced in the correct way which I guess you have missed a point ... tbh strip the whole thing down & replace all worn parts and it will run again as it it did from new Regards Jim

Hi, UK media regarding Air guns/rifles makes me think that perhaps they should be governed the same as other weapons ... I guess this is un fair on air gun users but where does it end ? Regards Jim

Hi, Thats cool perhaps it could also be the doggy old carb section too ??? Regards Jim

Hi Drewps that indicates they are all the same (with no mods) so production marks are perhaps favorite I just can not remember (age thing) what they ment so you have learnt that 12151 is a a rocker arm but back in the day the was a sucession parts list which was well difficult to understand ... blame the Brumies (Kalamazoo) for desiging the system ! Regards Jim

to the forum First things to check are the connections from the stator to the cdi box and on to the coils (assuming that all kill switches have been discounted) as you disturbed the l/h crankcase cover (stator) you may find the wires from there to the loom are in bad shape Regards Jim