JimR

Hi There, XS250C rear wheel would fit straight in but the 250c had a drum front brake so you would not get a match to the front (250C had an odd lacing pattern to the wheels but looked cool). I cannot remember how man spokes where in a 250C wheel but you may find the '77 hub (disc type ) may fit with the 250C Rim. As the XS250C was as rare as rocking horse mess, you may have a problem getting the bits ! Regards Jim

Hi There, The Divi is a good motor with a reasonable track record .. the Hornet I know nothing about, but are the to bikes different in their intended use ? Regards Jim

Forget the last post but I guess you have an XJ600 pre Diversion as you date it as 1984. or is it an FZ600 ? Regards Jim

my Xj900 diversion has a fuel pump 600 could be simular so as well as the HT check perhaps it might be worth checking if there is a fuel pump and if its working. It's too wet here at the mo to look at my divi to work out which wire to plug the multi meter into... Regards Jim

Hi there Try this Just have a look & see . I know this is a 60cc kit but if you email the site owner they have loadsa bits that they do not show on the web site. I do know the site is really for FS1(E), but if they do the 70cc kit for FS1 their suppliers may be able to supply the 70cc kit for RD/DT50 .. same motor. An other thing to look at is the CDI ignition conversion (I've just got one & I'll tell you the result after its bin fitted) Again it says FS1 part but from the years I did fixing these little bikes the CDI sator will fit straight on a DT. Regards Jim

Good old motor .. FJ1100 was the first bike i managed 150 out of Regards Jim

Hi Padd, What's wrong with the old one ? RS100/125 will fit straight on but you may have problems there !!! Regards Jim

Hi Steve The answer is no (or the big bore kit would be 80cc and not 70cc) so if you want 80cc buy an 80cc engine. You may consider getting the barrrel ported and changing the reed valve to complement the changes you have made. Or find an RD80LC engine graft it into the frame as they went real well Regards Jim

Hi Dave ur on cheap fuel still !!! My FS1 costs £10 to fill from empty but it will do well over 100 miles between fill ups. They were not the best handling bikes in the world, but do the checks and service to the chassis Change the fork oil (the clips in the top of the forks are buggers to get out). Tyre pressures Replace the rear shocks with ones that work, the are ok but not firm enough for my riding style ! Does the bike feel 'hinged' in the middle ? If so there is a chance you will have to shim the swinging arm (assumig the shims are still avalible). Regards Jim

I guess not the turn left thing produces a break in the wiring under the bottom yoke not in the headlight assy. check the wires from the section h/l bowl to frame. I guess the outer plastic is broken and some wires are broken .. black with white trace stands a chance Regards Jim

They should be fine .. unless some one has played with them. I did the noted procedure day in day out. The only reason someone would p about with the carbs is if the did not understand what was wrong with the service of the motor or some one else said it was a good idea. I accept that the bikes r now old and the previous things could have been done in the past but I guess everything will be cool following the service plan. regards Jim

They went like copulate if it's complete tidy it then have a good time !!! Regards Jim

ok just make sure that the bike charges well ... some bikes (whichever modal) tend to charge at different rates. I would guess the odd charging fault you have (your 2/) has a regress to your problem. I left Yamaha in 1988 so your machine is later than I'm used to but this problem did occur with the TR1 years b4 and I'm sorry about 4) just trying to make light Regards JIm

Ok you did not say that the machine cut out when the h/bars are turned left ! that indicates a wiring loom problem. you are trying to over complex nwhich I guess if you want help you should return all symptoms rather than what you wish to release. Regards Jim

Hi There is the kill switch in its central position ( not to right or left) If so do the following Check that you have a spark from the HT leads If not remove the points cover (small one on the r/h side of the motor), you may have filled it with water. but from a going concern to a starter motor not turning the engine over by a press of the button smacks of kill switch. You could also short the starter soleniod out to see if the starter motor turns the motor over. But on repeated attempts to start the motor with no spark it will be full of fuel. regards Jim

To many variables battery life is dependant on factors ... 1) How well they are looked after 2) The charging system on the bike 3) The way the bikes used (starting with the lights on after a lay up etc 4) The Nut behind the bars regards Jim

Hi there, I know it sounds well silly but is the kill switch in the run position ? that would stop the 'electric shoe' from working and also kick starting and bump starting would fail also. Perhaps you knocked it off when cleaning ?

Hi There, forgot those newfangled things as I'm 'living in the past' they dont exist !!!! but I would guess that a led set up would need a different flasher can Regards Jim

Sounds like an earth problem to me Regards Jim

The Choke is correct i.e 10mm of brass showing, carbon build up sounds more favourite. As well as the baffle remove the whole exhaust and have a looksee up the exhaust port you may find a build up there. If the exhaust system seems to weigh a 'ton' that will need decoking also .. various methods to do that also use one that suits you best, I use a fairly brutal method but it's effective, but however you do it undo the gland nut and remove the front pipe, best way to decoke the front pipe is a circular wire brush on a flexi drive. Ignition Timming should be set at 1.8mm btdc at this point the points should just open and not just gapped at 12 thou (you will need to use a dial gauge and ohm meter to do this correctly). Mixture screw set 1 & half turns from fully home, On the year you state there were a batch of YB's that the oil pumps minimum stroke were set incorrectly (I would doubt that ur bike sliped thro the net) but maybe worth checking while the cover is off, if you want a walk thro on that let me know. Regards Jim

Well if you don't want it, give it to me I can give it a good home Regards Jim

Hi there why not buy http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-RD250-RD400-a...id=p3286.c0.m14 problem solved Regards Jim

As Far I remember the lighting fuse was 10 amp not 7.5 but that was for the UK, maybe different for different parts of the world. But the electrics on this modal were pretty good so you may not have to replace it again once replaced, unless you have a fault........ Regards Jim

Hi Venny, If its a wire wheel modal check the spoke tension also Regards Jim

Yamaha did there own carb cleaner there were a batch of XJ550's bought into the U.K which were not prepared at the factory, Ok it was good enough to get the bikes going but they did suffer from problems on running and every bike had to have its carbs off to be fully cleaned out. I soaked all the brass bits in carb cleaner for about a week changing it daily and high pressure air thro them. The bodies where more difficult I was spraying carb cleaner into all the holes and hoping it would come out the other end slowly most carbs clean thro with this method & high pressure air. Don't forget the choke tube built into the float chamber as it's drilling is at the float chamber this one has had the most mess on it for ages, in one case I had to change the float bowls and in another the whole set of carbs had to be replaced. Regards Jim