JimR

Hi there, dependant on milage you may want to have the valve clearences checked and cam chain adjusted before you have the carbs balanced, when you have the carbs done get them to run over the mixture settings also, if you read the Yamaha service specs the mixture is 'preset' but with age they will need looking at. I could do it for you but as I'm in South Worcestershire it's a long way to come Regards Jim

So I guess that the bike lurches forward when you try to engage 1st (like if you tried to put the bike in gear without the clutch)? or does the engine just stop without the bike lurching forward ? I would guess if the bike bump starts and rides fine your problem is electrical, If the bike has a side stand you could find the switch is o/c ... fooling the bikes electrics that the side stand is still down and killing the ignition curcut. hope this helps you on your quest Regards Jim

Working out whether its injected or carb inducted makes a difference on what to do to fix the problem injected=computer problems carb= loads of things to check. FI (fuel injection) is normally ok but if it goes wrong expensive to fix (I'm not to used to YBR .. most have a light come on when the FI plays up & gives you a code as to what is wrong E.G. oxygen sensor, Carbs are a bit old style you may need to strip the carb down to check the jets are still in place and various air intakes are clear. but you do need to know which induction system you have. Regards Jim

Well the fisrt thing to do is adjust the valve clearences, change the oil & filter, check the cam chain and fit a new spark plug. Is you bike fuel injection or does it have a carb ? regards Jim

have you serviced the bike ? without more background info it's difficult to diagnose your problem. ok 20 km/l is a bit below the 33 km/l that most people get (396 km per 12 l - the tank range). so if the engine is requiring a service this could account for your bad fuel consumption, or the previous owner may have altered the engine trying to obtain better performance who knows .... you need to supply more history ! Regards Jim

That modal didn't have an inline fuel filter (only the gauze in the tank) nor breather pipe ( as such just a tube from the venting filler cap that ran to the back of the tank.) the rubber tube may be blocked but with a venting fuel cap I guess that would not make that much difference (unless the cap vent is blocked). Perhaps we need to know on the engines state of health is the compression ok, engines left for years in one position can end up with valve seats that are rusted (lack of compression on the affected cylinders). Do we know wether the bike pulls well to 55 then stops going or is it a struggle to get the bike to that speed. Has the motor had a setup service (carb clean, wire check and compression test) until that is known it's difficult to work out ... my gut feeling is with the carbs, when M/C sales slumped in the early/middle 80's there were quit a few XJ550's (same motor just smaller bores) that were left in their crates to long and ended up with the symtoms suplied we need more input from Gaz as to the state of play with the bike Regards Jim

Ho much is it going to cost to rip the gearbox out and have new pinions made more than the sprockets I guess

sunday would be better 4 us .. I have to do refuse stuff early saturday ... but we could do later saturday ... depends on the trains .... I won't ride or drive to the NEC there's a fair chance you'll loose ur way home !!! regards Jim

the MT will be cool ... if your going to nec tell us what day & Helen & I will have a meet up with you .. chew the fat etc etc Regards Jim

is it %^&&88*'s it pees down here all the time !!! the english flag looks better than the union jack flag ,, I guess the welsh would use the Drgon rather than the union flag (scots too). When you set the timming up on the old 175 it was set 1.8mm btdc fully advanced so with no advance and unknown cylinder (jug ? whats that ? US posters seem to use that term) you may need to alter the timing in order to take into account of no advance perhaps .2mm either way may help, but until u get the old bird running who knows !!!! After reading the thread you have a needle jet & jet needle to translate to us in europe !!! Regards Jim

what does it say on the h/bar brace .. looks like yam but looking at it ur correct it could be an engine from a minor manufaturer ... sorry always had Yam ... the profit made on those put me in a posh school and a good life till 89 when we sold ..... just looking after the 'old boys' regards Jim

the pic show as an X but looked at the url looks cool but which bike is he using ? Regards Jim

you may find that if the grips are not OEM (esp the rigid plastic ones) they wont stick no mater what you do. I agree with both washing up liquid & hairspray (I've used both) but I found hair spray the better as what you need is a lube to get the grip on then that lube to disperse then the grip 'shrinks' to the bar .... glues tend to put up a barrier between the grip & bar so if the glue breaks down there is no adhesion between the bar & grip so it comes off or swivels round... your problem I guess. Years ago I used swafega which worked ok but needed a day or two to 'dry' which was ok building the bikes from crates ready for sale but no good for use the same day ! regards Jim

Nice bit of kit ... there is a Girl in my area who has one ... she loves it (even the wacky looks ... sorry I like old stuff) her comment was 'it does what it says on the tin...... and some regards Jim

Brave Man !!! I went to the Yamaha factory in 1980 and watched oil pumps being built (amongst other things) and I would not fancy doing it.... I would advise another pump rather than some frought time trying to rebuild an old one, from what I remember even the assembly staff had problems assembling the pumps ... slowest part of the line (even the Toyota car engines dropped of the end of the line quicker!). If you are going to rebuild the pump the gaskets could be made from gasket paper (very time consuming and perhaps not too oil tight) and seals searched by there id number across the net (all seals should have there id number on them unless it was deemed they were unreplacable) sorry that I've not been much help, but you may find there is no source to be had regards Jim

send in csi 4jh = fzr600r the rest is down to your local police to lift the number but the engine number should corrispond with the frame no so if you have one title (?) shouldn't be to difficult to get DVLA (in the UK) will issue the docs for £25 unless the machine is stolen then I guess you loose it Regards Jim

and it's peeing it down here

i'm guessing on the battery ... do you have an mf type battery ? regards jim

wow those plugs r cheap give me the address nearly worth the plane fare to pick them up as long as u pay regards Jim

why would you do it !! must have been on some poo

What where they on ? we'll never know ... glad to see you have a Divi 900 I thought I was the only person to own one !!! Regards Jim

what's an exhaust roller & springs ? do you mean clutch rollers & springs ? if so I guess you have fitted um wrong if the clutch is slipping it will sound like the motor is revving it;s knackers off & going no where but if there are rollers in the exhaust (? cannot think where they would go) I wouldalso guess these are fitted incorrectly ( I do guess you ment clutch not exhaust having circular bits of metal floating around in an exhaust system sounds bizzare). So (i guess) re strip the clutch and check that the springs are not to strong, the friction pads not touching the outer flywheel enuff, and the risers (rollers) are runnig up thier tunnels well enuff for the belt flywheel to alter and move inwards to take up the drive. If thats not happening the bike will rev & go no where but if you get load (like going up hill) and no drive the rollers are moving up to quickly and producing to higher gear too quick. As I don't know what you have fitted and where this is the best I can do Regards Jim

I've got half a one !

I guess the carbs are comming to bits plenty of time on cleaning them will pay dividends but becareful with the mixture screws (if I remember correctly located on the top of the carbs engine side not intake side but as the bike is US spec (3F9 ?) or if it's the same as europe could be in the side of the carbs under a wierd white plastic cover). if they are screwed in to far the tip snaps off in the carb body . I've posted else where on how to set up ignition timing so have a look for that or let me know & I'll do a walk thro (it does need investment in some tools tho). just let me know if you need help regards Jim

Simular within 3 posts someones asking if he's hanging himself, or telling him he has the face of a serial killer... I feel for that guy as I have the same physic and also have been accused of murder ( many years ago bikers were a funny lot in the 80's one got killed & I was in the frame), but I proved I was know where near at the time and I (believe) the correct person's were convicted. Ok taking the pee of someones misfortune is wrong but from reading the original post I guess the friend did not exist he drilled it and was asking for advice but (if he drilled it) he must have felt the lack of resistance when the fender was breached and more resistance when the ecu was drilled. In my time in the trade I snafued but more than once best i remember is one that I was adding a no plate to Mobylette Minor managed to drill the rear tyre also... never did it again but did I have the pee taken out of me. So I guess your link is not to funny to me Regards Jim