JimR

Hi I would guess you still have some drillings in the carbs blocked, I guess you have done the norm, tappits, dwell and timing, if not I would make sure they are correct first, then hit the carb area, pull them off and run carb cleaner thro every hole you can find (Yamaha did some real good stuff in the middle 80's got rid of all the green gunge out of the carbs on modals that the factory had not crated correctly). when the carbs are stripped make sure the progression holes (the drillings I mentioned earlier) are clear Regards Jim

I put a 100w bulb in mine, works fine and no problem with the electrics. I have had my divi from new and suffered with poor headlamp (hence the bulb) and after a bit of thought found out the beam was not adjusted correctly (the bike has right/left & up/down adjustment) once adjusted the headlamp was acceptable unless you like running around country lanes at over the ton Regards Jim

no one .... I have an FZR1000 wiring diagram and an FZR600 WC wiring diagram and they bear very few similarities to each other. I was trying to work out whether you were looking at FZR600 WC or an FZR600 AC diagram (the AC , from memory, is closer to the FZR1000 1988 wiring) it's odd tho that the red/yellow is fed from the brown via a soldered joint in the loom, there is a good chance this connection has gone 'dry' Regards Jim

why mention FZR600 in the post if you were looking at the FZR1000 diagram ? Regards Jim

FZR600 air cooled or water cooled ? they are well different ... got a water cooled in for repair at the moment, the whole system is totaly different but if you followed factory 1988 FZR1000 diagram you will see that 1 (power is supllied to 1 via the loom) is connected to 22 & 23 which in turn connects to 26 FZR600 water cooled does nothing of the sort

Does the old worm (rather eat worms than ride a Honda) start from cold ok or is it a chore to start it ? but I cannot understand why the prob jumps from right to left 400n uses wasted spark ignition so the ign timming should be the same cyl 1 & 2 (but if the cdi pick up is rusty the coils could be given false info and run the ign well out). If you feel the silnecers are blocked why not run the bike without them... it might sound like a real bike ! and would discount blocked silencers (unlikley). I take it that the carbs were soaked for days in carb cleaner and then blown with a hi pressure airline and all traces of green grunge was removed... the yellow stuff is ruff too. But I guess you could bury it and forget all about it

I guess you followed the diagram for the FZR600 water cooled ? with the FZ1000 being 1988 will follow the air cooled (early) wiring modal i.e. off/side/main switch not connected to the start switch, if the PO (side lights) work the blue wire is being fed via the red/yellow if not we have no power to the switch wholesale, but the red/yellow is powered from brown (battery 12v +) so if the brake lights work 12v is supplied by brown to red/yellow (unless the multi plug or soldered joints in the loom are knacked), use a multi meter to check 12v at red/yellow at the light on/off switch from there move to the l/h switch (dip switch) red/yellow and blue (pass switch) should have 12v to earth. if you have 12v to there check 12v at the yellow on the h/l bulb on hi beam then do do the same for green on lo beam. If you dont have voltage to the r/h switch (panic its time to cut the loom about) regards Jim

I guess you have checked the fuses ? if ok your problem lies with power line (wire) to the light switch. if you lock the bike and put the bike in park does the tail & side light work ? if so defo on the power to or from the light switch regards Jim

so does it start from cold with no choke and fails to start warm/hot ?

Low compression would give you poor performance when it was running but you could test it quite easy (£7.99 on ebay for a tester). do I get this right the bike starts from cold without choke and not at all when hot ? if this is the case try starting the engine with full throttle if then the bike starts you have a carb problem. time to strip the carb out !

a slip of the zero's ! but it did stand about 10 foot high !!! so perhaps it was an xs11000

The piccy is of a Saki cup given to everybody who went to Yamaha's 25th birthday party in Japan. There was about a hundred people from the UK there and the same number from most other countries in the world that Yamaha imported to at the time. The party was awsome ... ice sculptures of XS11000's and others .... every single male had a hostess who kept your glass full got food etc. The party lasted about 8 hours and was real good . you had to be there to understand it .... just thought there may be someone on here who went regards Jim

why ? the mechanics of the barrel would not make to much odds to the elecs, unless your elecs imobilizes your key.. why has it gome that far ? if thats the case ur knackered,,,, just live with old Yam's that dont suffered with key probs !! regards Jim

is your bike fi or does it have a carb ?

/// what bike ???

12w is an old dt125lc mk1 about 84 the 12w prefix was used for it's whole life but a low number like that would put it at 84 i guess (may be 83 tho)

I guess noone then ! shame it was a good party

So I guess your rear brake pedal makes the light come on but the front brake lever does not ? an idea would be to trace the green/yellow wire from the switch to see if its connected, but if the front brake lever has been replaced it's dead simple to not reconect the switch

how are you going to 'earth' the coil out orange needs to connect to to black/white at some point

What do you need to know about the oil pump ? If you can help it don't take it apart, you will not be able to get any bits for it .. if you need the settings for it I can supply you with them. With the wiring (I notice you have none (shown)) Getting a loom may cause a problem, so you may have to make one, to make it easier to do make a few 'sub looms' rather than one big one (esay to trace faults) and stick to colours that mean something to you... Yamaha used some of the following Sky blue - N light system Lt Brown - battery +ve to dc equipment Black/white trace - ignition kill Black - earth dark green r/h indicator +ve (connected to the lt brown at the switch) dark brown l/h indicator +ve (ditto) Yellow - Ac from the mag (lights) Green/red - Battery charge from the mag Pink - Horn dk blue - meter illumination I could go on but if you have a problem with some part of the wiring fire away Regards Jim

Hi There just wondered if there was any one else out there with one of these ? if you were there what a good party ! You may remember me as I was the one trying to get on the ice XS1100 near the end of the night !!!! If there is anyone out there with one it would be good to hear from you .... to remember that good night ! Regards Jim

Hi Ian Ok I now have a workshop set up in South Worcestershire, which you are welcome to have the machine fixed at !!! but without more info of the bike it would be difficult to diagnose the problem. I guess the timming was set @ 1.8mm btdc by the shop & the min stroke of the oil pump corrected ? If you could post a video of the bike running showing the exhaust outlet/engine sound at idle that may help. If the Condenser is up it the bike will misfire (cut out) when the lights are switched on or if you look thro the mag with the engine running you will see "sparks" (arcing) acroos the points.. either will show the condenser down (but not normally both). The primary winding (source coil, in the mag) was very rare to give problems, if it did the bike ended up with no spark at all so I may discount the source coil from the problem. Just thinking was the oil pump cable adjusted or the minimum pump stroke set ? coz you could get the problem with both cable adjustment & minimum pump stroke i.e cable adjustment makes it better min pump stroke fixes it !!! Regards Jim

is it an SE or a normal xs ?

Ok the switch you need to test is by the side stand it's other end is at the clutch lever, trace the wires back from the side stand and you should find a connection where the switch joins the main wiring, disconect those 2 wires, from my time with Yamaha that should take the intire thing out of curcut and you could then work out if the switch is ok or not. Does the bike have a main stand ? Regards Jim

Ok how did you test the switch ? and does the clutch work fine when you bump start the bike ? regards Jim