JimR

Hi Ewan dont do that get it to me I'll get the old girl up & running again, including the exhaust system, for perhaps less then the exhaust. depends on where the front pipe is broke... let me know I am here to help or if you dont want to do it let me know how much you want for it Regards Jim

Hi there the point plates on xs650 and tx were different but may fit you may want to browse the HPI web site you may find a better system. I have an HPI system on my FS1 it works fine !!!! Regards Jim

yep get those connections clean which regulator do you have ? the 47x ?

funny enuff I've just ordered a digital vernier guage which at the press of a button will do the conversion, but I dont have it yet .... just thought you may want to pay for it !!!

correct conversions in my head are not a strong point but I done some research & the float height (for UK) was 26mm an most modals but again banging around the net found 1 variant at 35mm. The XS400's I worked on that had this problem tended to be a duff float or ( again the memory is failing me now ,I'm old, may have this mixed up with the 250) the brass tube in the float bowl slightly bent, impeading float movement. If I'm on your xmas list can I have an imperial to metric convertor please Regards Jim

Hi Doug Just wondering where the 1.25 inches is measured ? without looking it up I would guess the float height to be in the reigon of 25mm to 35mm, which is somewhat smaller than 1.25 inches, perhpas this has a bareing on your problem ? Regards Jim

Hi Neil did you check the length of the brushes ? they may appear serviceable but are too short to do the job, There is a line scribed on the brush indicating the wear limit, If theres no line the brush needs to be replaced. If this is ok goto rectifier (see previous posts here). Has your bike bike got the green and brown wire going to the regulator or is it as the picture in the earlier post ? What voltage do you get at the battery with no lights on at 4k ? let me know regards Jim

looks more like an XJ to me but best find someone from the states to answer this Regards Jim

Which bike is the trike based on ? How modified is the wirring ? Regards Jim

Sorry to hear that .... after all your time taken fixing it .... but you may find another bike at a reasonable price Regards Jim

there is no reson to fit a dt100 coil bar expense the dam thing had the same resistance via primary & secondary windings as the DT50. Big bores as long as you dont ring the nuts out of them every time they run fine as long as they do the polish period (run in). but I must admit some factories produced better kit than others .... to date I got a 45mm bore for my FS1 it was poo, but the ebay 43mm bore is well better and appears to produce the same power with out the piston slap of the 45mm bore Regards Jim

I had to fix snafus like that but from the original post or mine has this bike got the ypvs barrrel or is it an rd125lc with a tart kit if its a ypvs barreled bike best peg it open job done .... no need to had the boxes to allow the ypv to work ... unless you want the bike to pull mid range etc Regards Jim

Glad everthing is ok ..... you dint state the battery was down (unless I missed it) but 14.2 should be 14.8 at max revs (ie 6000) you may find that the battery is nacked ... the vr/rec should not get hot it would appear the battery is still giving you problems Regards Jim

Ok you could let me do that but I guess you are to far away from me .. if the stops are opened to far the reads will break if they are steel or fibre I guess you do know what you are doing but if I'm doing an Irish trip I would perfer a bike that does the job and not fail at Fishguard !!!

Hi there is no need to change it ..... the big bore will allow the bike to rev (as long as the base gasket is ok and you dont have that silly one ring piston, why not use the original carb (why do you need a 21mm carb, that may not work at all well and the original may be better) your time may be better spent looking at the reed block, opening the reeds, but not to far as they may snap. Adding a big carb then leaves you open to 1) jettting at the high end 2) progression and low range add the big carb if you want but I guess you will waste money Regards Jim

nope the reed block is the bit screwed to the cylinder (via 4 pan head screws) that the original carb pushes onto which makes your carb external, hence the screw (with a 10mm nut built in) the picture shows a carb that fits to an internal rubber type manifold carb this could fit but there will be some work to produce the reed block internal rather than external .. from memory the RD/DT80 was configured this way but as those bikes 'self destructed' from new you may have a problem finding a manifold to suit. I dont blame you wanting to use the oil pump my 65mph FS1 still uses the pump works sound but the 70mph plus people seem to think its bad ...oil mix 32:1 , 52:1 etc Yam produced a pump that altered that ratio across throttle opening why bother changing it .... but with no oil tank what a good place to store the sarnies ! Regards Jim

ok Ewan, time to check the voltage from the genny ... find the plug from the genny with 3 whites ... this will produce VAC across each other (hence 3 phase generator) this test should be done with 'no load' (the plug disconnected) and the voltage should be the same but I guess this will work out correct. but can you confirm the wires you find are either comming out of the l/h cover at the end of the crankshaft or from the circular cover behind the cylinder and below the carbs on the l/h side of the motor ? This will explain to me which charging system you have. Regards Jim

Hi Steve If your ok with the protracted work to make it run right ..... there are clues in the ebay description, such as we do jets (sold sepperate etc). It would be good to know what the carb has as stock (jet wise) and as your original manifold is an internal type and the illustration shows an external one it would be good to know if a reed block/manifold is avalible for the DT, then you may have to junk the oil pump, as I guess you know that the engine is fed oil by the 2 bits you need to replace, unless the carb or manifold have provision for the autolube to work you will have to go to mixing fuel, not to bad but a pain having to carry oil (just incase the garage hasn't got any) to mix at fuel stops. In my day most garages had 2 stroke dispensers but today I guess they would look at you 'gone out' but I must add I have been caught out by a garage or 2 that forgot to refil them ... 2 rebuilt engines on my Yam L1 to prove it ... I diagress !!! So to recap you need to check out with the ebay seller exactly what spec the carb and manifolds are so you can make a plan in order to fit it .. Regards Jim

Hi Jason, is the modal code 1GM or 1GU, if you have a working YPVS or the correct barrel, it must be an import, the UK bike didn't last long as it was replaced with the TZR which had few common parts with the (UK 1GM) RD125, However if you have a 1GM bike most engine parts from DT/RD 125 LC will fit. The rear shock will interchange with RD125LC (12A or 10W) and with slight mods to the loom it will fit also. Ebay may be a good source of parts Regards Jim

Screw in the extractor bolt (tight) then shock the extractor bolt (hard) you may have to tighten the extractor bolt after each shock.. Regards Jim

not yours then .... just someone got an 89 fizz via ebay in good nick ... did 2+2 & got 5 ... try http://s8.zetaboards.com/FizzyTalk/index/ but becarful of the the tuning forum there are to many confilcting ideas ... I left some odd posts to see what response I got .... In the end it was one I had to leave out !!! Regards Jim

so have found out if you have the 853cc bike or the 891cc bike yet ? Regards Jim

yep that exhaust will do .. infact the same one I have ... A plug chop is run the bike flat out for a mile(ish) and stop it with the key and coast to a halt ... so pull the clutch in and switch off or vice versa, then remove the plug , this will give you the state of the fuel mixture at full throttle if the base (bussiness end & electrode) are a 'light tan" colour its fine ... if grey weak, if black rich. If the bike is running rich just reduce the size of the main jet by 1 i.e if a #95 is fitted fit a #94 (loads availble on the net). To date I'm running a 60cc bore kit .. did 200 miles steady now I'm wringing the bike up to silly rpm and to date no problem .. best I've had is 62mph (down hill) on the std gearing, but to date I've not sorted out the low end torque of the bike but I will give you an update when I have the bike running well at the top end & the bottom end. I guess your bike is photoed on fizzy talk bb as the ebay purchase ... looks good but my 89 FS1 cost £300 in bits (ish) and looks as well as yours but with 7k indicated on the clock the 91 FS1 cost £155 with 18k on it and is the one I use day to day (looks like a dog but just spent 70 quid having the paint done ... when I fit the painted bits I'll post a new pic ! Regards Jim

thats were I was going !!! it does sound like an external transmission noise regards Jim

cannot remember them ... but it was in 88 when I did the course... memory dims over time !!! but I guess the bearing is not at fault in the first place Regards Jim