JimR

Hi John, I too wander around the Fizz forum from time to time and also have FS1's in varying states !!! (doesn't MR Stowe go on some times !!!) LBII80 Chappy ... I wasn't aware that the motor had a big bore kit. But you may get a V90 to fit but in fact in stock trim the V80 would blow the 90 into the ground (in fact the 80 replaced the 90). Are you trying to put an LBII barrel on a Fizz ? if so it may fit but remember the LB/V series were reed valve & not disk valve so you may have problems getting it to run correctly Regards Jim

Hi Jason, No problem just fit the kit !!! One thing to do is check that the PV has not carboned up ( it has been sat there without moving for years !). Also check that the 'O' rings on the valve are ok. I fitted quite a few 'upgrades' to RD125LCIII and they worked fine ... even if the CDI was Pink, green etc so just go for it !! Regards Jim

you need a tool or 2, if the bike is an aircooled FZ600 you will need a holder in order to remove the bolt holding the rotor on (quite an odd tool as it has to hook over the rotor and lock it against the crankcase) then a puller (big bolt) to draw the rotor from it's shaft. If your bike has brushes built into the cover I guess your bike is aircooled but never having taken a liquid cooled bike down I cannot be sure if this is the same , if you are stripping an aircooled motor further you will also need a torx driver to remove the oil seal and oil sprayer. Regards Jim

Hi, it should be not too expensive, to do at the outside 2 hours labour + oil and the spring & gasket would not cost that much. costs may increase if your local shop has big overheads and charge £50 per hour. From a DIY point of view you would perhaps have to remove the clutch and need to buy the tools to do that which may be more than getting someone else to effect the repair. I'm guessing that owner #1 put the wrong oil in the engine (as it was cheap ?) and the correct spec will fix the problem. Regards Jim

Hi from the photo's the main stand is snafued (perhaps), you may need to insure that the frame is ok where the main stand fits. On a service point of view the motor is quite good as long as the oil has been changed at regular intervals. On inspection of the motor you may hear a knock from the cam area, this will be bad setup of the carbs and not an engine fault you will need some vaccum guages, yics tool and a small screwdriver to get around this problem, but if it knocks perhaps the price could be adjusted to compensate for the engine noise if you are short of the tools I have the lot ! Regards Jim

Hi, I guess the oil was replaced with the correct grade as incorrect grades could cause the clutch to slip or drag dependant on what has been put in ! if the bike is jumping neutral from first to second it could well be a dragging clutch with have to put too much pressure on the lever to move it ! Or the selector spring maybe weak without seening the bike its well difficult to diagnose Regards Jim

Hi There, wild fomey is correct with a carb fault but I suggest you look at the progression tunnels/holes and the choke tube on carb 3 but as I no nothing .. check the underside .... someone else will give you better advice Regards Jim

I would guess they would drain the battery just by being switched on. So an on/off switch would be good, so you could leave them turned off permanent, so the genny could actually do what it is supposed to do Regards Jim

I guess the guy was right !!! I would doubt your genny has enough extra load to run the grips ... you could do a bit of maths (having the genny output & full load from the standard equipment which will give you any extra capacity in the system if the grips dont overload the system its ok.). You have a 12v system but you need to take into account how much the genny kicks out ... Regards Jim

Hi its a good old xs400 sohc motor, it should be fine but without doing tappits/dwell/timming & carbs you dont stand a chance of getting it to run like it should. Also looking at the ruff state of it I'd check the vac pipe from the fuel tap to the r/h intake is ok.. without that no fuel unless you do prime !!! runnnig prime will give you fuel but perhaps a r/h cylinder running well weak. the inlet manifolds may be cracked from the outside but their internals may seal ... unless the carbs are sat on the crankcaes just let me know where the bike is at Regards Jim

Hi, Can you confirm it's a random fault or does it drop out of gear every time ? and only between 2 & 3 ? As I have very small overheads my labour charges are very low ... example MOT's are 20 as opposed to nearly 30. see pm

Hi, it's not too much of an issue perhaps ..... if the bike drops to nuetral with each gear change 2-3 you could have a selector problem but if the problem is random it's more likely to be one of the following :- 1) this will follow the diagnosis from the test ride, the gear change shaft is 'sticking' to the l/h crankcase cover and not allowing the shift mech to return to its std position (heavier use of the shift pedal would cure this, and a mechanic would tend to be harder on the shift pedal than you may be. 2) A weak spring on the shift mech (p/n 90506-08227-00) this would show up with any test ride .. the bike would jump out of any gear ! with light use but given a good boot may stay in cog... with this one I was caught out the customer would ride it and get a problem I'd ride it no problem ! I was forced to strip a motor for this reason and found this to be problem and cured it! 3) Gear selector forks I very much doubt this is a problem you would have more probs than you have. I would guess its a bike problem not a rider problem so if you fancy a 30-40 mile ride drop it down & I'll fix it Regards Jim

Hi as perviously posted the oil light coming on when the starter pressed points to the bike being in gear and the clutch lever not pulled in if in gear or the kill switch in the off position. But if you are in neutral (and have the light on) this runs it down to the kill switch or the side stand switch (back feeding fooling the rest of the circut that the bike is in gear and the side stand down). If the neutral light has blown or the switch is U/S you will get this problem. If you short the starter switch & the engine turns over does it start or show any signs of doing so with the key in the on position ?, shorting the starter switch will just spin the starter motor (ign on or off). Did you buy both coils or just one which perhaps was a waste until you sort out which part of the wiring/switches is stopping the starter motor turning when you press the button (The 2 may be combined). I'm sure you will get more helpful answers from the forum as my knowledge of the XJ600 Diversion is limited but from my ownership of a 900 Diversion and the time I repaired older XJ's they are just pre tech bikes and can be sorted quite easy ! Regards Jim

When new this would signify the dwell angle/timing set incorrectly but as the bike is now a wee bit older the carbs maybe at fault. Start with setting tappits,timing/dwell and carb balance if that fails have the carbs off & cleaned. I assume the bike has plenty of performance (can accelerate from 30mph in top with no probs & at 70 the engine running at about 4750k rpm and a max of 100mph) Regards Jim

The bung at the rear right is correct, the RD50M & MX red lined at 10k but in stock UK trim the bike would not rev over 6k but I did get a couple to rev to 8k with some mods Regards Jim

be nice to see some pics Regards Jim

look at http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RD-350-LC-UNFINISHED...A1%7C240%3A1318 or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-RD-350-LC-NO-...A1%7C240%3A1318 or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1981-YAMAHA-RD-350-L...A1%7C240%3A1318 so there are a few kicking about that was just a few secs on ebay ok not black & red but a respray cures that Regards Jim

Hi UFO, If the motor has been looked after I doubt you will need to touch it but if you do things to watch for are making sure the roller bearings on the crank fit on the dowels else they will spin in the case (easy to miss these, but not to bad to fix if its got wrong, bar another engine strip). Make sure the castle nut holding the ATU to the end of the cam is well tight, if it comes loose it is possible to damage the cam beyound service, the little pin tends to shatter the cam ! Things to look for on the engine are if on start up from cold the motor badly rattles for 10~15 secs this is a worn out cam chain (even tho the adjuster has loads of adjustment left) not to bad to fix bar having to take the motor out of the frame. The B modal you are looking at shared most parts with the S modal I had back in the late 70's/mid 80s, and in the 100k odd I had it I had very little go wrong with the cycle parts, from memory I shimed the swing arm twice, replaced the rear shocks once, 3 sets of chain & sprockets, loads of tyres & brake pads. My S version only having a single disc up front where as the B had a twin set up. Regards Jim

Hi UFO, XS650b does have a kick and electric start, the engine was well reliable I managed 100K miles on my 79 XS650s without it comming to peices. The most unreliable part was the starter motor drive gear they only lasted about 10k each, but as the starter motor was an after thought it comes of easy and the hole blanked off which removes the problem (excuse the pun). Regards Jim

Hi Steve there should be a rubber bung on the top of the crankcase, this is were the drive fitted on the RD motors but fitting the clock my look a bit unsightly (unless you can obtain a complete set of clocks from the RD50mx, which may just fit in your headlamp cowl) Regards Jim

Hi Michelle oh ok you got it right ... the pdf failed for some reason ... it would appear your email address would not take a 40Mb attachment .... I could send it in chunks if you like Regards Jim

How did the cam removal go ? & I guess you retimed the bike correctly Regards Jim

carb looks good but will ultrasonic cleaning clear all the drillings in the carb ? XS carbs have quite a few of these and will the ultrasonic remove crub from these holes that are fractions of a mm in diameter ? Regards Jim

Hi Stevie, 10 x 2 +1.7 = 21.7w, 21w unit should work but most m/c shops hold a universal (2 or 3 pole) can that will do what you need (it does 8w ~ 21w) but ensure you buy a 12v or 6v one as you require. If I remember correctly SR125 was always 12v but I'm sure someone will have a 6v one !!! Regards Jim

Hi, I would not use this method to clean the carbs out XS400 sohc ran bad any how but I would set up the tappits, dwell & timing before going to the carbs ... as you have the bike running tappits, timing & dwell will be easy... then hit the carbs, if the bike then runs better from those adjustments do carb balance & mix strength if not its time to pull the carbs to bits and use some carb cleaner & high pressure air. I'm wondering what ultra sonic cleaning is but I would guess that older carbs may suffer from this approach. Regards Jim