JimR

Hi I do bins too ... but as I do difficult access I pick up what I see (no one pulls the kit out b4 I get there). but I have finds as good as yours ... it is well odd what people throw out ..... perhaps someone on my round will put an R1 in the bin area (thats on the back of the Transit, Yes I pick up stuff with a Trannie) so congrats on your good find !!! Regards Jim

Hi Kevin, In the UK the XS400SE (your SG, from pics I have seen) did not have tubeless wheels (in 81 they were few & far between) so you may find tubes in both, normally the rims of the wheels will state on them if they are tubeless or not. To fit tubes in tubleless wheels you need an adaptor to sleeve down the hole that the valve fits thro so the valve is not torn from the tube under braking/acceleration. Can you give me the info on S being the aspect ratio ? 120-90 give width & aspect (i.e 90% aspect) but I'm not getting the older system ? From memory the letter used to signify the speed rating and the aspect was cast in stone ... but its so long since I did this at collage I could be wrong. To change the tyres yourself you will need something to break the bead from the rim (there are tools to do this but it can be done with a big vice and lots of strength) then (if tubed) you stand a chance of pinching the tube on the refit (if you use levers) or lots of effort to push the tyre on with your feet, so my guess $40 is cheaper than buying the required tools Regards Jim

Hi Cole, Just dog some early RD250/400 wheels in ... only prob may be the disks R5 = no disks RD= disks but as the R5 ran common cycle parts it would not be to difficult to add the RD stuff (if you can find it), but if I had a 72 R5 I would want it to look like an R5 not some RD thing. OK you may suffer from a bit of unsprung weight (front & rear without lighter bits) but the bike will handle within its design. Whats wrong with an R5 being an R5 rather than some hacked thing with later bits on ?? I did a conversion to an RD350B (put alloy wheels and all RD bits on) but after it was done it looked stupid.. not the Silver 350B with wire wheels etc so it went back to RD350 in short order Regards Jim

Hi JD, That sounds like a TPS problem check the owners manual for the code problem (if it is TPS the manual will tell you what is at fault). The rev counter doubles up as a fault finder on the TPS system hence showing 0 rpm then some figure then returning to 0 ... the amount of time it hangs at x rpm before returning to 0 will indicate the fault. Regards Jim

Hi I would try setting the dwell angle, 22.5% , and setting the tappits & timming then balance the carbs this alway seemed to fix bad starting problems Regards Jim

Hi Whats the chain tension like & the lube on the chain? During bad weather chains do have real punishment ... Regards Jim

you could have a prob with the gauge/sender (as it is duel function, most likley) or some cruddie earths on the wiring as I did very little with TZR250 I'm unsure Regards Jim

Hi Russ if you had a 74 they were purple with pinstiripes ... there was one in a gloss marron/purple and one that was cat sort of matt the latter gloss modal had different graphics I wont do handbags just feel that the reply was not within the 'spirit' of this site sorry !!! Regards Jim

Thats a bit unfair ... I was stating facts a marron FS1 may be Brown and why would I want to click on images of girls ? Ok I am member of that blog but perhaps you didn't check out members that actually where there. I will transfer this post to the moderators of this site as I feel your comments are out of order you asked a question I answered it and you come back with that ... this is not the FS1 site and this site will try to help you out with whatever yamaha problem you have but I guess we dont need someone helping you out Regards Jim

Hi it is possible to put a 175 motor in a 125 frame but adding a 175 barrell & piston to a 125 crankcase may cause a problem whats an ecu ? the bike only had a CDI mag and CDI unit ... I would guess the CDI unit was the same for both, as their ignition curves are the same. I guess that if you mean a programable engine management system (ecu) these bikes didnt have one . The CDi just advanced or retarded the ignitin timming according to engine rpm if you need more info send a reply Regards Jim

Brighton goes on every year, but a marroon 77 Fsie don't match .. 77 Fs1's where Baja brown DX was Yellow or FS1Ea was a naff blue and FS1eaDX was a naff bright red, Marron appeared with the FS1MDX (FS1M was a nice marine blue) and were the first slopeds produced to encompass the UK laws. So I guess your bike was Baja Brown with speed block graphics. If you wish to purchase a good example of the above you will need 1-2 K but you could get an 80's FS1 for about £500, unless you want to do a rebuild then you may find one an FS1E in bits at £500 I went the other way with my 3 .... had the later FS1's ... £22 for the basket £150 for the runner & £300 or so for the clean one. Regards Jim

Hi David, when they did that one they blew bulbs like no tomorrow !!! so unless you have that problem I guess not .. but just check the charge rate across the battery you need 14.5v @ 3k rpm if it is not charging at that rate the genny could be down Regards Jim

Just what I said Jag -> mini i.e no chance and physically not fit. A 360 setup right would be cool from the repair work I did the 360 seemed to be a better tool but as it was so long ago so perhaps you know better Regards Jim

Hi Brad an XS360 or 400 will fit right in you will need to change the carbs etc but no major problems. all bigger XS motors 500,650,750,850,1100 would like trying to a Jaguar engine in a mini ! The engines bigger than 650 are shaft driven another headache along with producing a new frame etc etc .... So perhaps look for a 360 or 400 lump to drop in. this will give you a good performance increase and if you keep the 250 decals on it suprise some other bike riders. The electrics were not to bad unless they have been hacked around, Starting issues can be cured with setting the ignition timming & dwell correctly and as for poorly made ... it was the same as anything else around in the late 70's so by todays standards yes but back in '79 the same could have been said of bikes produced 30 years previous. Regards Jim

Hi David, I had loads of probs with TR1's not performing to well. One that kept occuring was inlet manifolds, they tended to allow air through between the carb & manifold, first hint of this was backfiring on over run then it got worse. You will find a valve under the l/h plastic below the fuel tank, it's function was to prevent the backfire on over run as the TR is now an old beast the tubes running from the valve to the induction system may have rotted Regards Jim

Hi OG, Without the bb the clutch would not work at all. unless an extended adjuster screw has been fitted, Push rod 1 (the one with the mushroom on would also be worn out and the adjuster screw would need to be replaced with a longer one at regular intervals. Regards Jim

Done some research :- 353-16357-00-00 ROD, PUSH 2 93503-16010-00 Ball 137-16356-00-00 ROD, PUSH 1 93102-04382-00 OIL SEAL, SD-TYPE (257-153879-00) is the make up of the clutch system ( with the exception of the crankcase cover and the worm). The only rod that could break is Rod Push 2 ... if the other was at fault the r/h c/c cover & clutch would have to be stripped to repalce. On reflection either if the rod bent of snapped off at a cm you would have oil peeing out from the seal that dont appear to be an issue ! Regards Jim

Hi, read my post there is a bb between the 2 rods this sounds like a wind up Regards Jim

Well I would have paid for the graphics to restore it back to original. The 87 FS1 I'm doing is to the same standard as the photo's supplied and there is no way I would enter it anywhere to be judged I would guess a resto is down to personal satisfaction rather than oneupmanship. The FS1 is about half done do I post pics or not ? Regards Jim

Hi OG, this one I dont believe. DT50MX has a split push rod with a BB in the middle & the Rubber part being an oil seal, too loose a cm from the push rod would then put it inside the main shaft of the box if so you would also loose the gearbox oil from the rod not sealing against the oil seal. If the push rod is bending or snapping off clean with the crankcase this points to a worn crankcase cover and/or worm gear. Gav we need more info is the rod snapping off at the case hardend section or bending ? The rubber part/oil seal is a tight fit to the crankcase if this is comming out this may be a carnkcase problem (broken) due to the chain comming off at some time. I also need to know if the oil seal is orange or black in colour (orange being a mod), but I cannot get my head around someone firing push rods in at such sort intervals without looking at the cause. Regards Jim

Dress up warm and go out & give the FJ some stick, I guess you will keep the FJ not comming to the UK but dont worry the bike is fantastic ! Regards Jim

Hi Ryan Gr8 bit of kit .. I love the FJ motor it was the first bike I managed 140mph (UK) on ( US miles are smaller) so I guess you could manage 150+ (US mph) and the bike just does what it is told... no problem, If it's no good to you just ship it over here !!! Regards Jim

Hi Steve have a look as the Rieju RRX or MRX both use the Minarelli (Yamaha design ish) NG engine, which is six speed & 12 volt but no push button start. RRX 50 =£1849 , MRX = 2199 these prices includes the derestriction kit. As these bikes are perhaps not so popular in the UK you may find a second hand one fairly cheap. To get push button start RS2 Matrix (road bike) =£1999. I have a secondhand RS2 (fully power) 54 plate 700 miles @ 999. Have a look here Regards Jim

Just get the dollars out & buy one then !!!! Regards Jim

Hi John, for the UK Yamaha inported the LBII80 a 79cc scooter thing that looked like the Honda DAX, but if I restate perhaps a V80 was ported better and was some what quicker in fact back in 1981 I played with a V80 (fitted a V90 front pipe and a pattern Fizz silencer, it looked like a dunstall exhaust, and the dam thing did 70 quite scary with leading link forks and no brakes to speak of!). My user name on Fs1e site is JimR, do you want to move over to that site ? Regards Jim