JimR

Hi vince from what u say the battery has seen better days (may still be the starter) and the starting is down to incorrect ignition timing which may be down to an incorrect TCI or pickup as you have a mixture I cannot answer which is at fault as the motors you have do not give me the cdi/tci box curves Regards Jim

Hi Ken, not a problem there will be someone here to help you with whatever you ask .. so you have an old RT in the UK we had other modal names & then became the DT (it was AT & CT but I guess the same ) Regards Jim

Hi Vince, With the starter runing for 30 seconds or so the wires will get warm !!! 'The sticking' problem is more likley to be the starter motor not being up to it (worn brushes etc) .... In the past (if all else fails) I have connected a small car battery (say 55ah) which will spin the motor really fast but use caution as you could ruin the starter motor. To date have you had this motor running or not or just the odd misfire ? this could have some bearing on the problem you have. Post exactly what happens when the motor fires up .. i.e runs for a second then dies or just misfires or when started runs 'lumpy' Regards Jim

Hi There it's a 10 amp fuse you need Regards Jim

The shoes to supplied without springs is normal .. follow the previous post for the adjustment ... take your time as they are difficult to get set up correctly. Regards Jim

Hi Vince, the Divi wont fit ( i guess your FZ is an aircooled one) which leads me on have you fitted an xj600/550 or an FZ ? if you have fitted one of the former the ignition system is totally different so you mave have just an ignition problem, fit the pickup & stator plate to see if this cures the prob... but if this is the case you may have damaged the cdi/tci box ... without knowning the full state of play it is difficult to answer your question Regards Jim

Hi There, you have a double leading shoe not worked on one of them for years and the setup is not easy From the photo the cable is connected first of disconnect it or back the cable adjustment off if the 2 cams do not return flat (the one may the other not perhaps depends on previous adjustments). If the cams are siezed in the plate you have a job on !!! remove the shoes by pulling them 90 degrees to the plate. Mark the splined section of the cams against the arms so they go back on in the correct position (later bikes had dots on the cams which ment you didn't need to do that). Remove the arms from the brake plate clean and reinstall. Refit the shoes the cams should now be level if not you will need to adjust the rod that links the 2 cams together until such point that both cams are level. All other adjustment should be made via the cable adjuster and you should have job done !! If you get it wrong you will get a very odd noise from the brake when applied. Regards Jim

Hi Heppy, I guess the nipple is well chewd up from your post so you have a few options :- 1) remove the caliper and use a freeing agent for a few days (on the caliper/nipple) and lock the nipple in a vice and use the caliper as the spanner, becareful as you could snap the nipple off 2} buy a new caliper (could be expensive) 3) Back bleeding the brake system may work but will rely on a good brake hose and plenty of time flicking the lever until all the air is removed from the brake curcit. Regards Jim

Hi Ian, First off check that the ignition timming is correct .. this should be 1.8mm btdc as the points open, this should be done via a dial guage (to measure the piston back by 1.8mm) and a sensitive ohm meter to work out when the points open & close. but other things to look at ... the coil are the primary & secondary windings giving the correct read outs (I would not think this as the YB coil lives in a nice place), The Igntion switch for wear, are the black & black/white/orange connecting, the charge circuts could connect but perhaps the ignition does not ! (hence the n light comming on when kicked over). To discount the switch connect a wire from the connector in the l/h side panel, mag side not loom (black) directly to the coil (should be orange ) and see if you get a spark. you will have to either remove the fuel tank & seat to do this or put your hand up the frame (from the l/h side panel) in order to find the coil and its primary connection. Regards Jim

Hi, have you checked the caliper ? if you have the other bits checked .... it leaves 2 options ... the caliper (likley) or the swing arm. If the caliper has seized and you didnt notice this may twist under the heat of the binding brake (Yamaha calipers are not the best) and hence you have a problem that you cannot find because it is not supposed to go apepoo. So if you have a caliper & some new pads it might well be worth trying them too. Regards Jim

Exact modal reference is MA50M with the slang name of QT, I never did quite underatand why Yamaha designated MA50 and then put QT on the side panels Regards Jim

Hi , I do MOTs and if I see gaitors fitted to a bike the would not have them I would tend to look into the bike 'in depth' as the tester cannot remove them to check the seals and if one bodge is there it's fair that there are others ! and it could fail on the found ones, but filling the infected areas so the seals are not cut is a good plan, and may work fine for some time but perhaps the ends up point is to fit new fork inner tubes & seals but of course some could be found of an XJ rather then just a YX Regards Jim

Well the Blackbirds that frequent my abode tend to do nuts/fat balls & bacon rinds .. oh sorry you ment that Honda thing... I would replace the oil on your machine with the same type & grade that it has already, using another type of oil may cause chemical reactions with the oil residue from the previous type (turning to goo) which in turn could block the oil ways but my knowledge on molymers & polymers is dated and the 2 oils may co habit together fine ! Regards Jim

Hi, That is the condensor, which can be tested, take it to the shop & get them to test it for you when you get the points and if u/s your in the right place to get one Regards Jim

Hi Mark, you only need one to pass the test but finding a switch shouldn't be to tough as the same style of switch was used on loads of different Yamaha modals that have a front disc break. Regards Jim

Hi I guess you mean that the oil pump is either missing or not working ? If the autolube system is there and correct you should use some form of 2 stroke oil in the tank & let the pump sort out the rest. If you are going to premix oil (in the fuel tank) go for a ratio of 20:1/25:1 but bear in mind that the bike may run a little weak with oil being added directly to the fuel rather than by its injection point. I guess your in for a fast buck turning a non runner to a runner and moving it on but you may find your purchasers either knock you down on the price, coz of the bike being a bit of a shed or others because the bike doesn't run right (and perhaps others). I would sell as is and perhaps make a bit of profit or do the full job & restore it and may make a bit more !! Regards Jim

Hi you dont need to remove the gear change pedal to set the ignition timing ...... just remove the smaller case/cover to give access to the mag and set it as I said in prvious posts. You need to check that your on/off switch is working so wire the black from the mag directly to the coil .. if it sparks the switch is at fault (or the earth to the switch) either way you can sort that one out. If you still have no spark you will have timing problems or perhaps the heel of the c/b points has broken off ... which was something that happened to the RS motor when someone dogged a screwdriver into the mag and adjusted the C/B points in an incorrect way Regards Jim

Hi there, I have found a graphics manufacturer in my home town who is willing to 'cut' the graphics for me so off to the PC to design them (any thoughts on that), does anyone have some good clip art of the tuning forks ? An engine case will be going to graphics man along with the finished design Regards Jim

looks real good .. as yor bike is older than mine the tank shape is better for the speed block design getting the correct graphic in somethine other than yellow is impossible and to date I have not found a decal man who is willing to produce them from my drawings ... The Suspension legs are down to this now and after getting a better camera this pic is more like the actual bike I have been giving it some thought how would just a plain silver YAMAHA look on the tank and FS1 on the side panels ? Regards Jim

I stripped of the yellow & the springs would need to be chromed as under the yellow powder coat they are base metal so they may take paint better (which also would be cheaper) Regards Jim

Hi Ally, that the horrid colour scheme it was ... in makes the mandarin orange V75A look really cool As all the paint work is now done in maroon the question is what colour to change the rear springs to and also what colour graphics to have made for the tank & side panels Regards Jim btw hows the V75 going ? Ok I trust

Yes there are points in the mag, the correct way to set them is to turn the piston back from top dead centre (piston at the top of the bore) 1.8mm at which point the points should just open they are not gapped,as such, to a figure Regards Jim

hmmm I was after some input rather than a comment about an american 70's road racer, I cannot understand how you would make the connection between a 70's hero (?) and a Yamaha FS1 built in the early 90's ... there must be some link but I cannot see it ... from memory Kenny Roberts ran in Yamaha US colour Yellow with black/white speed blocks and not the the later europe Marlbro orange/white, but I'm not sure on this ... when I met him he was in jeans & tee shirt and no sign of a Marlbro ciggie anywhere ! Regards Jim

Hi I'm restoring 2 FS1's my test bed (on the road FS1 looked like this but looks like this Ok what colour do those dam silly yellow shocks have to be coloured and also what colour graphics need to be added to the tank & side panels ... also what graphics need to be added to the side panels Regards Jim

Hi There, 1Y8 is the modal code for the RS100 the RXS100 code was 31J, but from your photo's it would appear to made up of bits from an RS and and RXS. So all you need to do is run the black wire from the engine to the switch then on to the coil, As this bike doesn't need a battery to run and looking at the photo where are you going to put it The only draw back from this is that lighting/charge coil may go O/S but as you have no need for lights or battery charge it will make no odds Regards Jim