JimR

Hi, if that is the case you could have some expensive problems, normally oil leaking from the breather tube points to serious engine probs but I guess you need to trace where the tube runs from & to. Regards Jim

Hi. dont forgetto adjust the cam chain .. SR125's tended to suffer from this rather than valve clearences Regards Jim

Hi Drewpy, hence why I added caution to removing the plug ... back in the 80's I nearly lost an eye (by my own fault) as the clipwas removed and the spring forced the cap out a while later !! Regards Jim

Hi Jason, where is the tube located ? and does it connect to the air filter box ? Regards Jim

Hi There, the correct oil to use would 10w40, but while changing the oil you might as well put a filter in, valve clearence sould be checked at 3000 mile intervals (as per Yamaha schedule) or 3 months whichever comes sooner, but to be honest 3000 mile may be a bit of a short interval. The fork oil would normally last about 9,000 miles before it starts to breaks down regards Jim

From memory the YX & XJ used the same fork inner tubes (but I may be wrong) the outers were different down to the caliper mounting points as the discs were different ... I had an import YX some while ago (the same age as yours) I wonder if it's the same bike !!! Regards Jim

Oh err how do we dig this one out ??!! oddly enough my brother was a Tank driver he lost the odd centurian in places like that. Regards Jim

I can appreciate that the job was long & difficult (I can only drive class II ) and within what I drive (from time to time) I would not like to put a class II let alone a long class I down streets like that, you would have thought that a better route could have been found, on taking a class II test the emphisis was on route planing and forward thinking in this case they either never did that exercise or had no ohter option. Regards Jim

I guess no one would have been doing Wheelies/endos up the high street that day Regards Jim

Thats good let us know how you get on Regards Jim

Hi there, here is a page from the Yamaha workshop manual as you can see the run out is .5mm so the run out on yours discs shouldnt be an issue with the problem you have, so perhaps you need to look else where .. I guess you have changed the caliper mounting bracket as this could be warped. To check the swing arm for alingnment ensure that the wheel is at the same ref point (for chain adjustment) on both sides of the arm then visually check the wheels are in line, if not you may have a slight bend in the arm itself Regards Jim

Hi Ally Too true ... I've picked loadsa stuff that people have thrown out ... all working. I 'found' a PC tower once which I moved on for about £50 one of the benefits of being a binman ! Regards Jim

Hi Ally, I dont tend to fall off the FS1 and wouldn't need them but back in the day they did look a bit pooey I hated working on them as you had to do another few bolts in order to service the motor/chasis .. time is money Regards Jim

Hi there so I guess when you set the valve timming the marks on both cams were alingned when the motor was set at LT? You need to spin the motor (not by hand) in order to get a reading via a compression gauge, if the compression is low at this point add oil to the cylinder and see if the guage increases in value, if so you will have some ring problems.. if not you may have a bent valve (or 2 or so) I'm not sure what you have done so give some more info Regards Jim

As I only weigh just under 8 stone I guess I'm ultra-light and with regard to being mindless is that what we want on the road ? but if your DT is totally std (along with my FS) and we have a private road to put the 2 together (your insurance is invalid otherwise) we would see if the 30mph DT50 could out do a 45 mph FS .. as they came out of the factory, and just to make things correct i'll let my wife pilot the bike she was & is 7 stone and rode the old FS we have , and back in the late 70's and managed silly speeds on the roads of Worcestershire Regards Jim

Put is back to totally std and I'll have the FS1E totally std and I wonder who would win ? The max design speed for the DT50mx is 30mph (the plate on the head stock should bear that out). The FS1E was not subject to that restriction, but had to be able to be propeled by pedals so a std FS would pull about 45. My comment sloped was the actual word used by the majority of 16 year olds in 1978 (the first year the restriction was in force) and not to a machine that is a long way from how it left the factory. Regards Jim

To Refill :- remove the rubber bungs at the top of the fork, push down on the metal cap & remove the circlip. The cap will then come out (take care as the cap is under spring tension) and refill through the resultant hole. Regards Jim

Hi Christian, most small yamaha's (of the time) used the same spline ... but I obtained a lever for my FS1 from yambits via ebay which fitted no problems. looking at the website I'm not sure which one I had ! Just out of interest what is a FS1 K1 ? In 1978 the current modals were FS1M or FS1MDX but there were a few preregistered FS1EA and FS1EADX's left kicking about ... the moped market was in turmoil at the time ... did you buy an FS1 or an RD or TY or DT and put up with the slower speed hence the term 'sloped' or go for the FS1E or EA to get the full power version ! Regards Jim

No Problem But the SR250 is well worth playing with .... best off restoring it and you should make anuff quids to buy a good 125 Regards Jim

Hi there, There are no compatible bits between the 2 bikes ... best off leaving as is and getting a 125 if you need one Regards Jim

Hi, Seca was used in all forms of XJ .. at one point I had an XJ750 Seca with the cyclom system fitted (1983) ... the Divi was a twinkle in it's designers eye at that point ! Regards Jim

Hi Paul, which have you got ? Regards Jim

Hi Vince, The oil cooler was there just to keep the oil cool all the XJ/FZ600 motors had them. the engine you have is air cooled (assuming your bike looks like the pic in the previous post). To start with just add the larger capacity battery and turn the bike over and see if it starts if it does job done ! If not you may have 1 of 2 problems (sorry I didnt make myself clear in the last reply as I was in a rush) 1) The Carbs need to be looked at if they are the carbs from the blown engine as the new engine will have a different state of wear to the orginal motor and they will need to be adjusted to suit the 'new' engine, without knowing the state of play with the 'new' motor the carb balance & mixture strengh may be well out. 2) TCI unit: over different years the TCI was 'remapped' so the donor motors pickup may not match the original TCI unit, without more knowledge of the 2 engines & the bike it would be difficult to answer if they are the same, the pickup may be sending the wrong info to the TCI or the TCI is not acting on the info from the pickup correctly. I don't know what more to say until it is worked out if you have an FZ air cooled or water cooled. Regards Jim

Trundle back to the 80's the first FZ600 imported to the UK was basically an XJ600 motor,here is a picture of one, dumped into a chassis to make it look a bit like the new breed FZ's (750/1000) at the time, but as it was then 'old hat' it did not sell too well on the UK market ... I rode one from Mitsui in Chessington back to Worcestershire and to be honest it was an XJ in pure sports trim ! Regards Jim

Hi I guess the power band was left back at the factory !!! I would guess it never had one from experence with the XJ550/600, FZ600 (air cooled) & FZ600 water cooled they never seemd to have a power band they just delivered power progresively, not knowing what the Seca is based on (XJ/FZ600 aircooled/watercooled or Diversion) it would be difficult to answer the question as to date I have not ridden the baby Diversion (which may have a powerband) the other modals mentioned for sure did not. Regards Jim