JimR

Hi Merv, perhaps it just rotted away Regards Jim

Hi Aaron, you will need Qty Dia Length 4 6mm 65mm 1 6mm 40mm With the cover loose the clutch will drag as the only thing holding the case instiu would be the gear change lever ! When you refit the bolts to the case it would be good practice to adjust the clutch, this is done by slackening the hadlebar adjuster completely off, then with the adjuster ,under the rubber bung in the left crank case cover, screw it in till resistance is felt then back it off about a ½ turn, then readjust the cable at the handlebar adjuster. Regards Jim

to the forum It would be good to know which year XS650 & from what part of the world it was orinally destined for as over the years there were changes & mods and for sure there are differences on bikes sent out to different continents Regards Jim

Hi Merv, how old is that fender ? or do they come with the 'vintage' look as standard ? Regards Jim

Hi Alec, That is close and should fit as from the photo it appears to be a drum brake version but I would check that it does fit the drum brake model as the disc varient's r/h mount is bent to accomodate the brake caliper. Regards Jim

Hi Merv, the holes would be needed to be drilled where the slot in the brace is ! Regards Jim

Hi, That fault normally indicates a cylinder not running, but as you say both cylinders/ exhaust pipes are getting warm this cannot be so. Other faults may be a residue of some fluid in the exhaust (perhaps some preserving oil/stuff applied to the exhausts when the bike was laid up). TBH I would take it back to the shop & get them to sort out the problem as I guess you may have already paid for this to be fixed, this would depend on how you define 'tuneup' Regards JIm

Hi Merv TBH it looks like an RD200 fender which would need most of the bracket cut away (to make it look good/acceptable on a YB) and the need to drill holes vertically (rather than horizontal, as per pic) may cause a problem as the bracket/brace may not have enough room to drill the required holes ... I would guess it would have been in M&P's interest to show the fender alone rather than fitted so the bracket/brace could be seen. Regards Jim

Hi Merv, I do hope the piccy is just for illustration only ! It shows a totally wrong mount for FS1/YB, the money is good as long as they do the correct mount points Regards Jim

Hi Foamy, would this be at the point the pilot jet/air screw are replaced with the main jet/needle ? Don't forget the air screw only adjusts mixture strength at idle ... The bogging down may be down to 'advanced needle clip adjustment' married to a main jet & tube that is perhaps slightly the wrong size. With a CDI fitted it would be good to have the i.d code for the CDI unit which from the manuals could show the ignition curve it was designed with. TBH I have a simular problem with the FS1 I am running an after market CDI & the CDI has two inbuilt curves (switchable) and to date I can only get the bike to run right 'low down' on one curve & you guessed top end on the other curve. I would guess my (and your) answer lies with a lot of time spent adjusting the carb to suit the modified engine/exhaust to the ignition curve. Regards Jim

HI, TBH I think I would invest in a 4 into 1 system for it try here http://cycleworks.co.nz/downloads/Yamaha-Catalogue.pdf this is one but there could be a few in the US also. Fitting a system like this would give a lighter system and allow 'deeper angles of lean' when cornering. Regards Jim

Hi I'll agree with this the dwell & ignition timming needs to be set. to be able to bump start the bike & not start it via the normal methods does indicate this, if the bike runs well when started I would discount compression as with lack of compression the bike would have no performance Regards Jim

Hi Dave, I guess your after the original metal low fender (well that's what was fittind to the UK bikes). If so do you have the chrome mounting brackets or would you need those 2 ? Regards Jim

Hi Foamy, if thats the case why would this page http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=58343...;cat=ELECTRICAL exist ? The only DT50's I saw with electronic ign were the ones built in Spain & not Japan but I would guess if it Japanise or Spanish its still an import and handled thro Mitsui Machinery Sales at the time. I can see you saying "My Engine has Made In Japan stamped on the cases" which is true also of the Spanish built models as the motor was made in Japan shiped to Spain and assembled to the Spanish factory spec, The same is now true with YZF125 etc which are made at an Italian factory. As I did work on these bikes & you are right every DT50MX was changed from C/B's to CDI after I left the trade ! Regards Jim

Hi Leigh, if the bike has not been serviced it may require one .... 2 stroke motors tend to build up carbon within the exhaust system which tends to restrict them, can you 'red line' the bike in the gears above third ? If not this would indicate a carbon build up. The speedo error you have is quite great and it may be worth checking this out also (assuming the old man's car's clock is correct ! Regards Jim

Hi There, if you need any help with this bike let me know ... I used to work on them when they were new & only live in Malvern Regards Jim

Hi Matt, I would look at the ignition timming as I would guess that to be the most likley cause ! Regards Jim

Hi Alec, the YB100 mudguard is different to the FS1 but have a look at this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YG1-...sQ5fAccessories this may help you out. An FS1 fender may fit but it was designed to radius a 17 inch wheel were as the YB has an 18 inch wheel.here is an FS1 fender http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-FS1E-FIZZY-50...%3A1%7C294%3A50 hope this helps Regards Jim

Hi, you wont have a problem those mufflers/silencers should fit ! just wondering why the bike was left with just downpipes .. I would guess the previous owner just wanted to make a noise !!! Regards Jim

Hi, Back at my collage (Merton Tech) my lecturers would class that as "a fail" and would tell you so ... ( I guess a differece between 2009 & 1976 !) if you are teaching you must supply facts to the studants rather than laughing at them ... there is this point that they could be the m/c mechanics of the future you should tell them where they are going wrong and supply enough tech info in order to back up the statement you made. Regards Jim

hang on when did a DT50 get CDI as std ? I would guess the bikes made in Spain ? i.e DT50MXII along with RD80MXII etc your atvar shows a bike that had C/B ignition so I would guess that the CDI has been fittied from one of the above or from the previous post I can see if you obtained the bike with CDI fitted you would think it to be std. please supply the production code from the CDI unit & from the base plate of the stator in order to work out where the mod was done. Regards Jim

until I send the FS1 down there but as a point which cdi are you using ... have you used a MA50/SA50/MJ50/PW50 setup to replace the original mag or have you used an after market system ? The point is here I have an after market CDI system ready to fit to the FS1 and cannot find enough info on how to set it up , but I guess if you have used an after market CDI you would have crossed this hurdle. Regards Jim

Hi Foamy, I guess you must own the breathed on R1 (the fastest bike in Newbury ?) coz I would doubt a DT50 is the fastest bike there Regards Jim

Hi if you wish to tour use the YZF rather than that odd peice of Suzi stuff or in fact buy a bike that was designed to tour. Regards Jim

Hi Ttaskmaster, 250 = gutless, 360 & 400 like what you would expect ... both models could indicate a ton on the speedo. The bikes never showed any gearbox/crankshaft problems when within there first 10 years of life but I guess user abuse & age will take its toll Regards Jim