JimR

Hi, That is what I stated the only other problem you may have is mounting the 650 caliper (I forgot that one) as you may find the bolt holes dont marry up Regards Jim

Hi, dont forget to check the VR/Rec first as the problem will be more likley in that area rather than the geni I guess the breather you mention is the one on top of the crankcase behind the geni that originally connected to the airbox ? If this one is giving out oil fumes & smoke there is a big chance you have problems with the top end of the engine I would guess you need to do a Wet and Dry compression test in order to work out (if any) is at fault then work from there !!! Regards Jim

Thank you Ulster I just did what I was asked to do just read the rest of the previous Regards Jim

Hi Jim, I would guess you are wrong (Mark will back me up . I hope) I look very old !!! & no one bar Helen would be interested (the wife) but thanks for the upper !!!! Regards Jim

Hi To remove the rattle you indicate just balance the carbs correctly. but as you work(ed) within the industry your tech guys should know that ... but I guess UK bikes could be set up a bit different and may rattle in a different area ! Regards Jim

Hi deb. the chance of finding a YA1 are very slim ... perhaps there may be a few more YL1's about (YL1=100 twin in fs1 frame (ish) which may be better than looking for the old A1 Regards Jim

Hi Jim What does that mean ,,, Regards Jim

Hi Goff thank you for your comment as I have said before all you need to do is ask Regards Jim

Hi, Some XS650s have a single disk ~1979 XS650S & later XS650SE's... But both master cylinders (twin disk XS650 & single disk XS650's) will have enogh power to pull 2 disks with the correct hose .. If you use the std XS400 disk why bother changing the rest for no advantage ! Regards Jim

Hi is this an XS1100 based bike ? or something else ? Regards Jim

Hmmm Jim I'm not quite that old !!! but I was one of those odd country born biker people (some ended up in trouble when we came to town) I never did anything wrong ???? or got away with it ... good days the middle 70's .... Barry S had a quicker bike than me but to a degree we all managed to get around the Shelsleys (local vilage) quicker than he could Regards Jim

Hi Dan, you name the bike park (sounds seedy) & we will have a meet up in Stratford sorry I missed you last week (as you were on stage ) joking Regards Jim

Hi Jim That sounds a bit more intense than tit monday Regards Jim

Hi Mark, thank you for your comments ... I have talked to Noddy and there should be no problem sorting those problems out at a later date ... (the tyres) Regards Jim

Hi Tony You will notice 'dots' on both friction & plain plates (if genuine) which should line up which the arrow on the clutch boss, at which point the pressure plate will fit snug to the boss. If the plates are non genuine you may have to adjust their position to allow the pressure plate to fit snug to the boss Regards Jim

Hi Jim, does that mean I'll fit a 57cm helmet (I am a small guy) ? but hey I do count on you all as friends & will try and help you out ! Regards Jim

Hi Drewps, I'd do it for anyone ... all they need to do is ask !!! Regards Jim

hmm Nice One ! I was down your way today shame I didn't notice how close I was coz I may have popped in for a brew ! Regards Jim

Hi Steve, 1) Remove the carbs 2) check the float needles & float height & the floats for leaks 3) recheck everything else 4) before you put the carbs back on the bike hold them vertical ( a vice is good for this) and supply fuel to them from a small tank. With the carbs off the bike you can work out which carb is at fault (if they sill leak) and cut the strip down time by quite a bit or if they don't appear to leak at onset of fuel just leave them connected up to see if they leak over night. if they don't ... job done & its just a case of the refit. I used to find it easier to remove the airbox rubbers, spray the intake rubbers (internally)with WD40 and use a hammer stale to push the carbs into the intake rubbers (a further leak test, as above, could be done at this point). To refit the airbox rubbers start with the 2 inner ones (you can hang the securing clips over them) then add the outer 2. If the rubbers have gone hard dunking them in hot water will help you get them back in (watch out scalding your hands tho Regards Jim

Hi you'll make me blush !!!! but hey is that not what a forum is all about .... helping each other !!! Regards Jim

This is getting worse !!!! Regards Jim

Most under rated bikes ... I love them old 350 twins ! Regards Jim

Hi Paul, no I was back for lunch ... breakfast is more like the time of day !! Regards Jim

Hi Mark our no valve motors were called RD also ... but I do remember seeing an RZ (non valve) on my visit to Japan in late 1980 which in outward apperance was the same as our RD ... so perhaps the bike was called RZ for some markets & RD for others but as your bike is UK spec my point should be valid .. early LC's used to have problems with the pulse coils this gave problems with misfires etc the later bike with the electronic tacho was supposed to be 'flawless' and the only prob I ever had was the connection from the CDI to the counter getting manky at the CDI box. From memory I cannot remember the wire colours but it wont be too difficult to work them out. Regards Jim

very cutting