JimR

Andy, is the divvi a 600 or 900 and how sick is it .... ? Regards Jim

Hi, The red charge light should glow @ about 1.5k rpm this will give no detriment to the bike at all but if the light is on bright you will need to check/replace the brushes and/or clean the commutator segments. when fitting new points & condensers gap the points to 12 thou @ tdc and set the timing to 1.8mm btdc (don't use the timing marks use a dti to ensure you are accurate) fully advanced, use a cycle spoke bent double and pushed thro the holes in the advance unit bob weights to advance it. note the points should be gapped without the the advance unit being advanced. If the bike is running fine & never fails to start why are you fitting new points & condensers ? If you have idle problems (with good starting and running) I would suspect you have some problems with the carbs rather than the ignition system. Regards Jim

well you never know

Oh Ok , I'll find out if an ISO can be added ... but don't expect too much Regards Jim

nope can you add an ISO image to utube ? Regards Jim

Hi Jim, not sure when at my wedding last year we did a load of odd stuff .... do you want a copy of the cd ? Regards Jim

Hi Jim, when Karen Carpenter was well I'd give her one .... out of ten Regards Jim

Hi if you have a volt meter then check the voltage across the battery terminals at about 4k this should give you in excess of 13.5V if not I would go for the rectifier (those 3 whites, red & black) did tend to give problems when the bikes were new ! Regards Jim

Hi Jeremy, the charge light coming on at less than 1500 rpm is not to much of a problem .. The RD200 runs a dynostart system ... which means below certain engine speeds the unit thinks its a starter and above that its charging the battery etc. The light should come on below 1500 rpm as the unit is really in starter mode and not charger mode, but this does get worse with brush wear.. a new set of brushes and clean segments will allow the bike to idle with no charge light coming on, but a few starts will then bring the light on at low RPM. If the battery remains charged there will be no need to adjust the VR but if you have the light going out & no battery charge you will need to adjust the VR (maybe clean the points in the VR or adjust the no load voltage, via the little screw on the back of the points contained in the VR). Do you have any charging problems ? Regards Jim

Hi Mike, the oil cooler being covered should do the job as I guess the oil will not cool and allow the hot oil to run thro those holes (galleries) and should stop the degrade of the clutch release bearing ! Regards Jim

not got an abba one Regards Jim

must be a good highland lass !

Hi just a thought what actually went wrong with the bike ?? As you are a 'legal eagle' I would guess you dont need any input as you would have it all sewn up. But I will add years ago when Yamaha's after sales process was set up the would endevour to be the best in the industry in this area ... in fact they replaced bits I would have not .... anyone with an RD125LC will know this one ... belly pan with stone chips... Other things to take into account :- Miss Diagnosis (not YMUK's fault - Dealer Fault). Extra claims submited to YMUK through the miss diagnosis The ablity to supply the parts within a reasonable time ... a back order may take some time and if the part on your machine has an unusual fail rate i.e Yamaha NV don't need to stock it & its coming from Japan. This is a little hard work out where the failing is .... you have not said what failed and what time scale YMUK gave for the supply of the parts... In the old days Mitsui would have said give the boy a bike & add it to the claim .... but I guess you just have it in for Yamaha through your Dealer .... perhaps phone Andrew Smith (if you can get through) and relate your problems ... while your at it just say Jim from Worcester wants a chat !!! Regards Jim

Hi Jim, who would put the pen to liking Abba ?? I wouldn't .... I just stick to me rock/folk stuff !!!! Regards Jim

Hi Mike, not an easy job .... if the bike has been run slow or short there will be a build up of crud (mayo) in the small oilways (galleries) through the crankcase (via the geni shaft) which lube the clutch & Gearbox .. best way to fix this is to make sure your oil is not white (if so change it) blank off the oil cooler with tin foil and give the bike 'a good seeing to' this I hope will remove all the mayo from the galleries/internal oilways which in turn will give the clutch etc the lube it needs. Or you could just run the bike up for an hour or two at about 4~5k (annoying the next doors) in order to get the oil hot enuff. Either way after this is done change the oil & filter Regards Jim

Hi, thats now well out of balance you should have used the correct tools ... i would guess it will take $100 or more to sort it out ... and the black wire going to the battery earth wont cause a problem ! Regards Jim

Hi Mike, from the look of that bearing I would guess you may have a blocked oil gallery .... but looking at the bearing I would have guessed the rest of the actuation would have needed to be replaced (outer plate of the clutch & the pull arm) so I would guess on both points I would have to say no ! Regards Jim

Hi, that is well possible !!! it would be good to work out where the short/bad ground is before fitting the new part. check the output from the genni Regards Jim

Hi Mark, thats cool just run it up to 10k and see how well it goes ! Regards Jim

Hi The clutch noise is down to bad carb adjustment ... when you set the carbs make sure you have a yics tool as if not you will get false readings from the guages and dont forget to spend a good time with the mix screws. The wine in high gears stands a chance to be the cush drive rubbers ... let us know how you get on Regards Jim

Hi Paul, its an FZR 600 (its not a pure sport, Genisis). good motor what do you need ? Regards Jim

Why ? Regards Jim

Paul is the bike air or water cooled ? Regards Jim

how to upset a Foamy !!!! Regards Jim