JimR

Hi Pete, get the rear wheel off the floor start the bike and engage top gear, tie the clutch lever to the handle bar and just keep dabbing the rear brake when the motor is warm enough the shock of the brake coming on will un seize the clutch Regards Jim

hmm Drewps, if the body is ruined by removing the old screw there would be little point putting a new one in the old body ? But at my point when people did this my response was "buy new carbs" it made the dealership more money ! so can you point out how the screw can be removed with no damage to the body and a new screw seat down to the body ? Regards Jim

Hi Dave, you could just forget the gaitors and spend most sunday mornings polishing the forks ... nothing better to do right ? But to be correct if you keep on top of the forks there is no need to hide them .. unless you cannot get the bike through a roadworthiness test ! Regards Jim

Hi Ollie, I would gues £50~£60 is in order unless the bike is showroom (which would mean it could be worth more than it was new). If the bike is a 20 year old bike and looks like a 20 year old bike my money is on the nose ! Regards Jim

Hi Pete, its just down to it being stood if you just put the bike into gear and ride the bike the clutch will sperate and work fine ... this is on the proviso that the bike is used quite bit. if you want to waste some oil you could drain the bike of oil & strip the clutch out & put it all back together... but tbh just give the bike a good run Regards Jim

Hi ... to the forum TBH if the rectifier is not melted out or has a tag broken off there is a fiar chance it will work. The RS100 suffered more from the wires being snapped/broken around the headstock area which supplied a bad earth to the AC light circut, which in turn blew the main bulbs. To install the Rectifer find the red & white wires under the tank & just make good connections to the new unit. Regards Jim

Oh Ok Paul I would guess the weather & climate is somewhat different to England.... conti's I have ridden on here tend to not grip too well (compaired with the other tyres mentioned) . The conti's may suit your enviroment but perhaps not here (dunno on that score). It's well interesting to know that different tyres work in different parts of the globe. I know tyres are an emotive subject and everyone does have a different thought on the correct one's to use from their experence but I would guess if the shop recomends Bridgestone & a few on the forum I would guess in the UK they would be the tyres to use. Regards Jim

No you can not is the answer ... hence the jest on trying to remove them insitu !! if you remove the seals by distroying them you will also distroy the new seals by fitting them Regards Jim

Hi, you hit the same problem I did in the 80's when the customer supplied the 360 set, If the points are pushed back through the carb body from the venturi as suggested there may be damage to the carb bodies which may just mean the bike idles like a bag of poo (as this only has effect on that part of the running of the bike) and does the XS400 hang at 5k thing. but is it worth having good idle on a bike that is now 30 years old or so ? Regards Jim

Hi, let us know what goes on ! Regards Jim

Ronnie's on holiday for a fortnight can you think of anywhere else Regards Jim

Ronnie's on holiday for a fortnight can you think of anywhere else Regards Jim

Hi to the forum before buying anything it may be worth cleaned out (decoking) the exhaust system & exhaust port. I know I'm only about 8½ stone but on a stock RXS on a flat road under neutral conditions I could get up to the high 60's. with small bikes rider weight does have a bearing on top speed/performance but I would guess anyone could get 60 on the flat out of an RXS Regards Jim

Hi Merv, TT100's where the last 'british' tyre I used on my own bikes and I never fitted Road Runners to one of mine by the time 1979 came around I was using Goodyear Eagles & good old Bridgestone Mag Mopus and tbh stayed with Bridgestone ever since ! Regards Jim

Hi Ben to the forum. First off you need to find that screw that's missing in action ..... it could do untold damage to the engine do you think the screw could have droped down the cam chain tunnel ? If so its going to be lay in the bottom of the engine waiting for its chance to ruin the engine. Bad valve adjustment will just give you mechanical noise or poor performance (loose or tight) Bent valves will give the bike mechanical noise and no performance/ bad starting The balancer chain is visible throgh the plug on the l/h crankcase cover but adjustment takes a while as you have to strip the cover off (drain oil etc) to get at the adjusters .... back in the 70's it was a normal mod for the blanancer chain & shaft to be removed as you didn't get too much more vibe but did gain a pony or two. Now the engine sieze has some bearing on your problem perhaps the MIA screw has already damaged the motor in some way ... it may be worth dropping the oil out again removing both left & right crankcase covers and the sump where by you may find the screw & the engine damage. One last question after the bike has got warm does the oil light flash on & off (when the engine is running) occasionally ? Hope this helps Regards Jim

Hi Mike, you cannot say that about brussels they are very good at removing traped wind during the Queen's speach Regards Jim

Hi Mike, you cannot say that about brussels they are very good at removing traped wind during the Queen's speach Regards Jim

Take a steady aim

Oh dear .... you are in the poo !!! if the point is broken as you state you are better off looking for a new set of carbs or split the bank & just fit another carb to replace the faulty one ! Most sohc XS400 carbs will fit & run ok and in the past I managed to get a 400 to run on 360 carbs, it wasn't too good but at least it idled fine ! When I fitted the 360 carbs a customer brought them in as replacement for his 400 carbs with broken mix screws .... he was on a budget so I did no jetting or tuning work ... I just did as instructed fitted um ! and it ran ok but not as good as it would run on 400 carbs so perhaps with a bit of playing about you may get it to run on 360 carbs, but dont forget you will need the inlet manifolds also. Regards Jim

Hi Mike, 3 hours @ 4 pints an hour =12 pints !!! just about on the sleepy stage by then ! Regards Jim

oh err where do i get one from ? I guess you just sell them Regards Jim

what !!! I guess you are saying the TT100's are not a patch on the road runners but I guess on modern tyres you would just have to run with what you bought but tbh those old tyres did the biz !!! Regards Jim

Hi Ray, I managed to find one at local motor accessory shop but I did have to go with a pattern in my hand to insure the assistant could find the correct item Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, I beg to differ ...... you need the following special tools :- Angle grinder, hammer chizel and an Aly welder !!! Regards Jim

Hi Merv, back in the stone age I used to run TT100's on my RD200 as Roadrunners just didn't 'cut the mustard' but know I would guess the 200 just didn't get the roadrunners hot enough !!! but I did used to get about 7k on the rear tyre & shed loads on the front one Regards Jim