JimR

Should be ok depending on how it was laid up, try to get it going first, clean out carbs ,fresh fuel, charged battery etc. Once started if it doesn't sound like something wants to exit crankcase, its worth a bash. This engine has odd oil galleries in the crankcases so After u run the motor up and are satisfied that there are no major gremlins, drain the oil & re run it with a flushing oil in to clean the odd little holes out in the crankcase. If the carbs are out of sync at idle the engine will sound like a bag of poo, if you get the rattle which will then disappear when reved, continue with the project. Regards Jim

test it first !

Have you tried a double leading shoe ..... awesome Regards Jim

the issue was riding a 50cc bike on a car licence without taking a CBT previous post was :- , It's not a legal requirement to complete a CBT to ride a moped if you obtained your car licence before 1 February 2001. Despite this, the DSA recommend that you do so. I added the problem of tuned peds so A intitlement is not an issue Regards Jim

Ok Brian, you have an imported FJ600 (known in the UK as XJ600) and not Diversion hence the chassis no starting JYA and not with the modal code (49A) which back then UK didn't have VIN in place, but if you need to order or buy bits (ebay perhaps) the UK site will know your bike as an XJ600 pre Diversion. I worked on these machines when they were current and can remember loads of data and problems that occured if you need to know anything fire away ! Regards Jim

Hi there, the unit should have a red, a black & 3 white wires comming out of it check between the whites should be zero then do Red to whites for conituity in one direction only i.e needle swing in one direction and not the other then do Black to whites (same applies) Also check for broken wires from the unit Check the rotor windings also as I have been out of the trade since 1990 I'm unsure what the read outs from there would be. Regards Jim

They easy enuff to fit if you have a basic mechanical knowledge, but if you have not got a clue I could write an article on how to do it .. catch me on MSN [email protected] Regards Jim

over adjusted !!!!

Hi Brian Is this what your bike looks like ? or does it look like this ? If it looks like the first and is UK spec it would be an XJ600 if imported could be called FJ600. The second picture is of a Diversion. I've searched the net trying to find FJ600 Diversion in all markets & found no reference to XJ600 Diversion until 1993 and no ref to FJ600 Diversion at all. But what i did find was modal code JYA (means made in japan) 49A (model code) which is the modal shown in the first picture. an imported FJ600 or uk spec XJ600 Regards Jim

What's the first part of the engine number (3 digits i.e 2L8) Regards Jim

Not a hope in hells chance Steve .. Jog R is totally different... ask the supplier to give you the correct carb specs ... just throwing a DT80 unit on will not do the job .. same with the exhaust.. a DT80 may be less restrictive but may not match the other mods, but if ur doing a 125 soon why bother just use the little bike to learn how to ride ready for the next big step Regards Jim

Well I used to live in Castlemorten .. tank quarry then off to Malvern but white Leaved oak is in the forrest of deanshire not to far off have to meet for a pint I cannot ride the divi because of the finger problem but maybe I could do the FS1 when I can get gloves to fit ... or you could DX to Malvern Regards Jim

Hi There, So what happens here ? I sell my FS1 to a teenager where I cannot assertain his/her licence status, as i stated my FS1 is 77 spec but plated as the 30 mph set but is quicker do I get into trouble or is it buyer beware ? Regards Jim

Hi Claire, 1A3 is the modal prefix (in all frame & engine nos of the day) the digits afterwards are the production number so one that starts 66 will be a late one as you state an F ... ( modal code 2R9) if the ignition stator is still on the motor it should be a CDI system. But dont forget that these motors are the best part of 30 yrs old another engine could be 'cattle trucked' (rhyming slang) and the money may be better spent on sorting the original engine. Known bad points :- Lab seal & centre mains E Modal connections to the CDI .. makes um go backwards ... the guy I reversed into on Putney bridge was not impressed ! Fixed on F modal Oil pump cable issue if incorrectly adjusted used to snap causing engine damage at high throttle openings (made loadsa cash out of that one also RD250/350/CS7/R3/R5) Silly rubber joints between front pipe & silencer leaked & cost sheds to replace Regards Jim Mail 4 more info if needed

Are those kits including the cylinder head ur going to need in order to release the extra displacments power, so perhaps a 60cc with the correct cylinder head will go better than a 70cc with the 50cc head on it. Another consideration is the head gaskit DT/TY/RD 50's in the UK used a 'thick' head gaskit in order to reduce the compression ratio, so you will need a non UK head gaskit. Have you researched the port timming on the 70cc barrel this will have a bearing on the correct exhaust system to fit to the bike... the std is junk with its inner sleeve so u will need to match the port timming of the barrel to the exhaust. Then the carb throw it away and buy a dutch spec one but u may have to rejet from there (2mm bigger venturi). As I said in other posts the FS1 has cost about £500 in order for it to get to 70mph ... CDI fitted, 45mm bore kit, carb bored out & disc valve cut about, gearing altered to suit the extra bhp. At present playing with the main jet in order to get the full bore mixture sorted, with following projects .. i.e the front brake ... slowing the FS1 from 70 is a bit of a bother but I dont want a disc as it will increase the unsprung weight. The YG1,s & YL1's slowed up ok. Regards Jim

Thats no C in the UK that would have been an XS360SP but oddly our bikes had a disc to the rear (SP) drum rear brake came in later with (in the UK) the 81/2 modal and the C version (drum front), 250 only, but again in the UK as the XS400/360 didn't sell to well we tended to end up with the 78 modal until introduction of the XS400SE (round cylinders, plated cases and U.S styling) and the 400 was replaced with the DOHC version (Maxim ?). Ur bike to UK spec is a bit odd having wire wheels and rear drum, married to the 360/400 motor. The UK 400/360 was gr8 loved it when I had one but I guess it should have had 250 badges on it as it went just as well as the 250 2 strokes and pro rata the XS250 went like a 175. regards Jim

do we know wether this is a 6 or 12 volt motor you have ?

A jug is what beer comes in fitting a YZ Barrel may make the bike not road friendly but if yr an off roader thats ok but bear in mind YZ barrel is a chrome plate type and cannot be bored (so you need one with no wear on). The wiring is no gr8 shakes just let me know how much is to be rewired & I'll give you the original colours the wires were but I guess that is going to be so hacked that wont help.. but I could give you a walk thro on what connects to what! Regards Jim

guess I'm too far out being I live worcs/herefds border regards Jim

You could buy a moped registered b4 August 1 1977 which had no speed/kerbside weight restrictions and run along at somewhere between 40mph & 65 mph as long as it can be propeled by its pedals, for an undetermind distance, good examples of this are FS1E(A) Suzi AP50 Honda SS50 and all those super fast eyetie mopeds Garrelli Tiger cross/ Rekord etc but this bikes now cost a fortune. I have 2 FS1's (later than 1977) which 1 has been returned to 77 spec and returns between 40 & 50 mph. So in a nutshell there are to definations of a moped. Regards Jim

come over here & do some proper bends not just the fast ones ..... run from Lampeter to Brecon (thro the beacons) the pic shows the fastest bend you'd see Regards Jim

Hi Steve Pop down the libary and see if they have a copy of Tuning for speed by Phil Irvine, although this book is old it will explain the principles of trying to get "a gallon out of a pint can". I used the book as reference for my time at Merton tech collage (the only place, at the time, that did the city & guilds in motorcycle engineering) when doing projects on making Bantams, YG1's , YL1's and B100p's go quick. Regards Jim

Hi there, In days gone past Cibe Z beams were a good aftermarket head lamp but I guess they don't do m/c lights any more but it might be worth the research (found a 5 & three quarter inch on the net for just less than £30) Have a look here Regards Jim

Would it be an early 350lc ?

The AT2 I have in bits is 6 volt and has no electric start ... big differences between AT2/3 and AT2/3E