JimR

First off check the charge rate with a volt meter 14.5 ~ 14.8 @ 4k with the lights on or off. is this FZR an aircooled bike or Watercooled this will help so I can look at the right specs for the charging system on the bike Regards Jim

well you pop round and see RUSH ... they live there .. they are an odd 3some but if you are going with your previous 3some ... make sure the ohm meter doesn't get on top ... thats nasty Regards Jim

Hi Neil, Job done then 14.5v is great at that speed just double check that you are not over charging with the lights off that also should be 14.5 at 4k Regards Jim

Hi Jack The pulse and pick up coil are the same unit, I guess just called different things on the other side of the pond ! if the white wire/red trace connects to the pickup coil we are on the right part ... I have seen some pics of the DT200 and the motor does look very simular to our DT125LC. Regards Jim

Hi There, Carbs on & off and cleaned could take 5 hours, the labour cost could be cut if you remove the carbs and get the shop to clean them (they will access to hi pressure air etc, which you may not). If the bike runs (reasonable) and knocks/rattles at idle carb adjustment/balance, Valve and cam chain adjustment are required, a shop should be able to that in 3 hours, but ensure the shop has a YICS shut off tool or else the wont be able to balance the carbs correctly. As to the $700 price tag I'm not sure but have a look at this . I guess the one in London would offer better value (take into account that 1 years T&T is worth £95). So if you are thinking of a non runner $700 seems a little high perhaps $500 max ? Regards Jim

No problem I know that is correct (i.e we are here to help each other out) and perhaps my use of the english language is not the best have a look at this topic for instance, so perhaps I ought to tone down my language Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, I'm not sure which post you are replying to (mine I guess not looking at the quote) but break down of pluse coil is not uncommon within this type of engine (assuming the DT200 is a UK DT125 with a big bore (from the factory)). But we dont have a full understanding of the fault so therefore you must follow the flow charts, it is possible to short cut them but you may get things wrong. by somewhat over complexing those charts. They should be followed correctly and the fault will be found ..YMJP employ people to make the flow charts (with input from their engineers). I can understand that as bits age the correct chart cannot be applied (In my experence most riders/owners tend to shortcut them) so I guess the pulse coil still needs to be addressed (if this goes out of spec the ignition timing goes out the window with either total stop or misfire) As the engine has old the carb could play a part in its demise but unless the carb is well minging I would doubt it, but the previous posts do show an electrical problem. read the quote History: Was running mint. Non-starting issue was an intermittent problem, but it hasn’t been running for about 2 months now, so I think the problem’s here to stay. It will start up first kick, sputter for an exciting 5 seconds, backfire and die. Engine is non-responsive while it's doing it's 5 second sputtering routine. end quote Regards Jim

Thats good !!! Regards Jim

What does this mean ? empty the oil tank and refresh with new oil ? or empty the fuel tank and add new fuel/oil mixture there ? I'm at a loss how either would help Regards Jim

Compression can be tested via putting your finger over the plug hole opening the throttle and pressing the start button if it hurts the compression is ok. If you have the guts to take the carb apart and get it together again valve clearences will be a dodle, cam chain is simple to check & I'm quite welcome to write a walk thro on how to do it ! Regards Jim

Hi Steve, I guess the obvious has been done, compression check, valve clearance & cam chain tension ? If all those are correct you may want to check the electronic ignition is performing as it should, CDI dynamically adjusts the ignition curve so if its gone west you can get odd results - make you think its carb when its ignition. If these check out OK (this includes all connections & joints) then move to the carb. First off check fuel flow from the fuel tap ( and vacuum connection if the 125 has one ... from memory not but later model's may have this type of tap fitted (post '89)). Then run to the carb, First off remove the carb, inspect the manifold & gasket ( visual if on a budget as if removed you will need a gasket and a possible manifold) If the manifold shows no cracks and the cylinder head shows no yellow stains where the manifold joins you may deem these to be correct. As you have cleaned and set the carb to factory I guess that will be correct. With the distance ridden, is a scoot longer than a mile ?, and the restart (if within a short period of the scoot) will have all electrical components at the high end of their operating temp and if they have voltage applied to them (being on the edge of spec) may push one of the componets out of spec. If the first 3 parts of the 'flow chart' are not done redo those & go from there. Regards Jim

not got a diagram yet but the soldered connection will be around the HT coil area of the loom .. where the plastic tube turns into tape !!! if the connection under the seat is 'taped' I'd check that out first .... Regards Jim

its a dry joint ! from memory there is a soldered joint very close to the ht coil (under the tank but u know that !) pre MX's had a resistor on a male/female connector living by the ht coil but again, from memory, the MX just had a soldered connection in the loom at about the same place ..... but try running a wire from the head light (which works) to the blue at the connector under the saddle if it works the problem does lie in the loom. Its odd tho I seem to remember the Yellow suppling 6vac from the mag and the main lights being supplied from there ... I'm off over the net to find a diagram let you know when I have a diagram and can advise you better ! Regards Jim

I guess this bike is a watercooled single 2 stroke ? 1) There is a chance your pulse coil is playing up white/red trace from the mag 2) one of the spanners you threw is lodged in the power valve as I have no specs for this bike I would go for pluse coil to start with (the ignition weak link) then check orange & black/white wires to the CDI box. The CDI unit can be tested via a special tool (dam thing cost £1k back in the mid 80's). Secondary Coil (ht) is a much easier test . So do the pluse coil test (get the readout from somewhere), followed up by HT coil test and CDI box wires for bad connections (also test the resistance of the plug cap, 5K ohm). If this works out OK and the carb work etc you have done is sound replace the CDI unit, but I would guess you have a pulse coil playing up or , but I doubt, a broken woodruff key Regards Jim

whatever ....

Ok so where are you going to dangle the legal UK stuff from in picture 2 (assuming a UK bike)? Why not do your own thing and produce a tail that allows the legal stuff & looks cool ! Regards Jim

I know its a pain .. just connect the +ve to the connection and the -ve to a good earth on the motor/frame. If you cannot run the charger to the bike you have to disconnect the one side, then drag the battery out and disconect the other... well pain in the bum ! regards Jim

perhaps not .... I was adding the point Andrew is a complete gent and we had 'an ok dont matter it will be ok relationship' for customers today that may have changed... if you could get hold of andrew there would be no probs ... I could run out to Ludlow and see if he is still there but as I have had no email back I guess its down to london to see him Regards Jim

Hi Steve, I guess the yellow wire is still connected to the rear light and also the head light works ? if they dont a yellow wire is suspect. you could check the earth to the rear light but as the brake light works I guess the earth is ok. you appeared to have checked every box unless you missed one !!! from your post it should work !!! i'll have to shed some light on your rear mudguard earths !!!! Regards Jim

sorry I should of added who Andrew is .... back in the late 70's (perhaps early 80's Sorry Andy for adding you in) Andrew was my sales rep ... any concern was replied with 'dont worry I'll sort it', so I guess as he is a bit higher up in the company now the same principles may be the same.. I have emailed him but to date no reply !! Regards Jim

Hi, knowing Andrew Smith it would be implied but Ymuk may have now different aspect best u phone up to make sure the warrenty is sound .. Regards Jim

Hi Greg, The h/l and meter lights only come on with the motor running (ran from the yellow). cream wires didnot appear on UK modals so I guess some US thingy so I cannot help unless I find a diagram for it. UK has a white (could it be that ? gone old !!) Regards Jim

Hi Greg Ok (i'm in old oil pump mode) my experence is with UK modals so US ones may alter slightly. First off bleed the pump ... undo the bleed screw (with the fibre washer) and turn the white gear by hand until no air comes out of the bleed. next check the marks on the cable wheel align at the correct time (UK DT had a screw half way up the carb body which was removed and the throttle opend till a mark appeard in the hole and the oil pump datum mark should align with the funny bolt to the side of the cable wheel) US modal may set up with the throttle open or shut (its easy to figure out). Once the cable is adjusted correctly do the following. Turn the white gear until the biggest clearence is made between the cable wheel and the washer above it, then measure between the high point of the cable wheel and the washer. UK spec was 0.1mm ~ 0.15mm but US could be different (this is the flow rate adjustment) and you need to find minimum pump stroke setting for your locale and adjust if needed. The adjustment is made by undoing the 6mm (10mm headed nut) holding the washer down, under the washer will be some brass shims you may need to add or remove a shim to get the pump stroke correct (but my guess is you will find this correct) and your pump is now ready for service. If you wish add oil to the fuel on startup run the motor (pump exposed) and watch for the said washer moving up & down, if so the pump is working). I know this may sound confusing but I have a newer (non white gear pump) that I can photo and illustrate the points Regards Jim

Ok Ewan, any help I can be on the rebuild ... a trip up to manchester is not out of the question ... in order to help you assess the problem ... Regards Jim

Hi I guess the following Yellow = Lighting Green/red = Batterey Charge Green(perhaps sky blue)= N light black/white trace = ignition noticed the RT has 2 lighting coils so the cream wire may have some USA spec stuff .. running with the lights on all the time ... whats that all about ??? I guess you are talking of the big white gear on the back of the oil pump (looks like a gear with nothing to mesh too) ? If so this was there for two reasons 1) to bleed the pump (you undo the bleed screw and turn the white gear in order to expel air from the pump) 2) To check the oil pumps minimum stroke (I could go thro the procedure but I would think this is fine, but I'll run thro it if you want). Regards Jim