JimR

Hi, I would guess so .. 20 years ago it was good to buy a tidy bike at basic trade .... Skellerns in Worcester do advertise a buy in scheme Regards Jim

All they showed was open throtle ( low mpg) or closed throtle (high mpg) .. you may get a point where the bike was 'touring' (settled throtle opening) and the meter may show an intermediate value. With FI if you drilled and tapped a hole into the manifold you could connect a V guage (not recomended) as it would not give you the results you need. I would guess there would be someone out there who produces a gizmo that checks the fuel sent thro the FI and connected to the electronics of the speedo to work out consumption. Going back to the 80's the Suzi GS850 had an 'economy' meter (V guage) al it appeared to do was put led's across the clock area and did not make any difference to fuel consumption in ever way you rode it .... To get the economy you want to get you will need to ride the bike on low throttle openings (so the FI supplies what it thinks the engine needs) and refrain from full throttle. but thats boring bikes need to be 'ridden' hang the economy have a good time instead ! Regards Jim

So a V guage connected to the inlet manifold to create an mpg meter ... I dont think so, the only thing you will trace is the 'suction created in the inlet manifold/tract as soon as the throttle is opened the guage will sink to nowt ... at idle it will give you a pressure ... so if attached the mpg meter would show 150mpg at idle & 0 mpg on any throttle ... because I'm a bit old school I'm not sure what would happen in a FI manifold for sure but from the position of a V guage in the inlet tract I cannot see it working any different to a carb motor, I would guess if the bike is FI there will be some electronic gizmo to check the fuel consumption but if it has a carb .... do like everyone else shake the bike about to work out how much fuel is left in the tank at a given time .... I would guess there is nothing you could do to increase the fuel consumption of the bike unless you just run it around on idle ! Regards Jim

Hi, I would check the cdi and mag against the specs ... both cold & hot .... if correct cold & out hot you will need to replace the defective article .... but I would guess you have pickup/pulse coil problems Regards Jim

If you disconnect pipe A from the woofle valve ( care must be taken here to make sure the woofle valve pipe A & B are connected together ) the vaccum gauge could be connected to point A .... but apart from that there is no need to attach a V guage to a single unless you wish to have a second opinion to a compression test so please enlighten me why you wish to attach a V guage ? Regards Jim

Hi Kern, Welcome to the forum ! if you want to do a small foray into touring I'm planing a route from Worcestershire to St Malo France and a 1500mile run around that area to date no dates are set so if you want to have a go let me know ! Regards Jim

Hi there, sorry to hear you are going ... where are you off to .. I guess somewhere without internet connections ! Regards Jim

Hi Paul, if you are replacing the caps on your XS400 5K caps will be fine, I replaced some TDM850 10k caps with 5k ngk caps (Yamaha wanted £37 per cap) with no probs ... in fact it cured the slight problem the bike had. If your XS is a sohc unit has it had cdi fitted if its dohc it was std, the point with that is sohc engines had 5k caps as std & I cannot remember what was fitted to the dohc modals Regards Jim

Another thing to check is the silencer and exhaust port for carbon, If the mechanic at the shop was good he would have detected that decarbonization was needed and gone for the easy option, with certain YB's the oil pump minimum stroke was set inncorrectly at the factory I would guess these have been put right by now (but you never know !), but it would be worth a check if you havent already done so. Regards Jim

Hi there you also have HPI (I use this system on my FS1) here is a link to there site Regards Jim

Too Right had enuff of this unless the is a tech question I can answer ... Regards Jim

Dont Worry... I know what you have... 3KM was perhaps an XJ600 motor but as I said the 2 shared the same motor .. the first example of the L/C 600 was when I sold the shop in 88 so it is possible that your bike hung around unregegistered for 12 months so could be an 87 ... but hey its real & I know that bike inside out ! Regards Jim

If you worked at Mitsui at that time there is a fair chance we met as I did my Bronze & Gold courses at Mitsui at that time, and my brother was working in the workshop on the road test fleet ( that may have been 1980 cannot remember when he was there), did you work your way up tp senior technician at Yamaha or somewhere else ? If at Mitsui I must have spoke to you on the Dealer Tech desk a few times. Regards Jim

Just wondering why the motor is getting hot ? perhaps the mint jelly has blocked the small pipe to the carb or in fact the brass feed. Oh did the H manual tell you to bleed a half pint out or until the bubbles stop comming out of the bleed hole ? Regards Jim

hmm a bike of that age will have more metal than plastic that is beside the point, so I guess you are saying that in original form the bike was not functional ? i guess the bike was functional in it's day but as time goes by there will be the need by younger people to 'upgrade' I was guilty in the early/mid 70's banging expansion chambers onto my 60's 2 strokes (chambers were 'new tech' ) and you are saying the same ... upgrade... what is wrong with replace with compatible ? Regards Jim

Can you tell me which breakers yard I may be able to buy a motor to put in one of my FS1's Regards Jim

Hi Wild, you could be in the poo here, did you clean the tank,pump & lines ? if not there is a chance that where the two oils meet you could end up with a substance that resembles mint jelly, back a few years Belray (semi) used to have this effect with any mineral oil, but I would guess the oils over the last 30 years have got better. I would suggest you drain the tank & lines then reattach them refil with the oil of choice then undo the blead on the pump and allow a good half pint (234ml) to bleed through the system and should insure you dont have any oil reaction problems. The bike will not run any different on either oil so the choice may be down to availability & cost. Regards Jim

Hi there seam to have bent a valve or 2 there by setting the valve timming incorrectly, I can send you stage by stage msgs on how to set it once you have the new valves put in, just let me know. Regards Jim

Well I never can I see a photo of an air cooled FZ it does look like it ... but they are watercooled arn't they but I must admit the bike is a good example of an air cooled FZ ... I guess it could be water cooled if you added water ... but it could smell funny when it has run for a bit Regards Jim

you do talk a load of gonads shall we do the FZ600 air cooled's history ...?oh ok here it is :- way back in 1981 Yamaha produced the XJ550 (528cc a/c four cylinder motor) Within a 4 years the XJ600 was born it took that long as 2 many 550's where sat in my & Mitsul's werehouses .. check the tech bulitins for XJ550's left in their crates to long rusty tanks & green carbs9i ... then we had the xj600 which was an over bored 550 with a different head & carbs (no yics) then there after the birth of the FZ600 air cooled ... I have sent you a picture of the said bike and I would of thought (as you have to be trade) you would have learnt about the bike before you denyed that it exists. Can you confirm that you where in a Yamaha franchise between 1985-1989 guess not ? or else you would know of the machine we talk. Regards Jim

Hi W/F the DT175 is a bit more difficult to work on than the DT50mx as it contains m/c parts & chasiss over the 50's bog std bits. I guess you cnnot have another DT as you have the old Czech 350 to restore in fact a DT175 is much simplier to restore over the Jawa (i would suggest restore in both cases is worth while) so we need you to do the Jawa and a bigger DT o boot Regards Jim

Hi Paul, you do have an air cooled it must be people who were not around at the time thinking all FZ600's where watercooled as it is beyond what they can remember, with reference to an XJ600 engine in an earlier post this will be correct as the FZ & XJ shared the same motor ... the FZ was just a bit quicker and was in the 'pure sports mode body styling ' as beared out by the FZ750/1000 of the time. Perhaps the 600 (aircooled)was a ploy by Yamaha to get rid of all those air cooled engines they had kicking about (the XJ600 was not a strong seller but it did have some nice clocks to look at). The bike you have was a bit of an 'odd ball' and perhaps Yamaha continued with 2HW prefix for the later FZ600 watercooled motor (I was out of the trade by then) so parts people may not have the parts Fiche from 1987 but have the 1990 fiche which, may also show the same modal type, I cannot comment. But bear in mind you have a bit of an oddball and don't take too much truck from people in the industry that presume they are correct ! Regards Jim Please note this is a general reply & not directed at any user of this site

That is one of the 80's air cooled FZ600 that i mentioned in a pervious post ! Regards Jim

Hi G I guess it all would be well fixed with gt85 /wd40 Regards Jim

Hi Nath, I hope you didn't end up with 2 odd washers with recessed holes in them, they fit to the end of the g/box shafts and supply oil to the whole g/box if they are missing the results are terrible (last one I saw the g/box exited crankcase as the bike was still under warranty it cost Yamaha a fourtune) so just make sure there in there ! Regards Jim