JimR

The TY50P was fun !!! loved um ! Regards Jim

Hi, read the topic no one seems to have a leak from the clutch cover (as you do) so I guess that leak has no bearing on the problem you have. After ridding the Rieju again (bike with the same motor) I found that it started to 'nip' up which then gave problems with the top end of the performance until it cooled off.. then it ran ok until it got a bit warm. Is your TZR restricted or does it have the factory (minerelli) de restriction kit fitted ? Regards Jim

Hi nigel, you can pick up a whole silencer on ebay for less than £50 which if fitted will save you having to decoke it and a new baffle in the package ! Regards Jim

Yambits perhaps ? I bought a new DTI from them which came with the correct stand and a couple of extensions to the dial guage perhaps they also have just the stand ? How did I know you were using a battery/bulb set up .... <G> as I know this will not work well enuff, the ohm meter that Yamaha supplied was something else (well sensitive) and could detect the points breaking battery & bulbs do not ! so without a good ohm meter you would be better off using a fag paper and a DTI. unless you know to an ohm meter that will actually put up with the spike from the mag as you turn it (most digital meters seem to go into shock !) and do not record when the points open. As I dont have the correct meter I am using the fag paper method until such point (excuse the pun) as I can find a Yamaha meter .. I'm now looking at outboard suppliers as the bike people look at you 'gone out' ! Regards Jim

Hi Bill, read the second post this may explain that problem. http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php...ost&p=86629 Regards Jim

Hi there, is the residue oil or a shed load of unburnt fuel ? To confim this do a dry compression test followed by a wet one this should give you a good idea to the state of the engine without having to strip it. If this turns out OK then look at the service items i.e. Dwell, timing,tappits & carbs. Regards Jim

Hi Hoggy, so the drive was at fault when you have it working dont forget to check the tag (washer) in the wheel as there is a big chance that you will need to replace this as the drive will have distroyed it. Regards Jim

Hi Ardy, yep @ 1.8mm btdc the points should just open and forget anything else, if you get this setting correct the bikes timming will be correct I would think using a vernier guage will not be accurate enough if you are out by a mm you will get no spark (well at 3mm btdc ... thats close). I would guess the vernier could loose a mm easy as it is not sucurely held (hand wobble could loose a mm) and the only way really is to use a DTI. BTW what are you using to determine when the points open ? Regards Jim

Hi Bill, I do hope you are not leaving the tap in the PRI position.... you will notice the tap has 3 positions 1) ON 2) PRI 3)RES. The bike is fitted with a vaccum tap and in normal conditions the tap should be placed either in ON or RES. PRI is there for when the tank is totally empty (petrol will not be delivered to the carbs in ON or RES positions unless there is vaccum supllied from a running engine). The PRI position overrides the vaccum requirement and allows fuel to be delivered to the carbs irrespective of whether the engine is running or not. With the tap in this position all the fuel will be used in the tank where as the ON position will leave the reserve section which you can use via the RES position. With the bike left in the PRI position there is a chance that the engine will flood and when you try to start from cold, if you have a flooded motor it would take no choke & full throttle to start it, using the choke will flood it more ! This in turn when, you heat the motor, may dry it out a bit just enuff to start it .. only a theory as you may be using the ON position & not the PRI position. I would guess the fuel you have leaking from the motor when laid over is from the over flow tubes located on the float bowls which would be correct if the tap is in the PRI position. Sorry for rambling on but you gave a few points to address. Regards Jim

Hi Bill, when you apply full choke to the bike after 20 secs of cranking do you smell fuel ? Did you strip the carbs out to check out the starter circut (in the float bowl) or simply ensure that the plungers in the carb boddies were rising. I would guess it would be a good idea to strip the carbs out check the starter circut float hieght etc, this may cure the problem. But as the bike is now old it may also be worth doing compression tests (wet & dry) just to confirm the motor is in good nick. Regards Jim

Hi Nigel, The YB100 was only good for about 60 max ..... to ensure the bike is in top fettle do the following :- Set the ignition timming to 1.8mm btdc, set the minimum oil pomp stroke to .04 mm or less. Remove the silencer and remove carbon deposits until the silencer weighs less than 1kg, check the exhaust port for carbon deposits !! I could go on but I would guess there will be more helpfull posts than this ! Regards Jim

Hi Bill, I guess you will need to look at the choke circut within the carbs in order to fix this problem. If the bike as been laid up for a while there is a chance the choke section of the carbs has become blocked .. so I guess this is your first port of call Regards Jim

Hi Piston Bloke Whats the old clutch rattle ? I'd love to know as all this bike suffered from i.e the series Xj550/600 & YX was bad carburation. If you applied the clutch at idle there is a chance the noise would disappear, but where was the root of the problem ?? release bearing perhaps .... or perhaps the primary drive chain or could it be the oil gallery from the crankshaft to genny shaft to clutch blocked ? I would guess by the time the R1 was born the latter would have been sorted .. in fact by the time the motor was in the FZ600 frame these were sorted. So if you have a knock at idle on a pre FI R1 it will be the same problem that I mentioned in earlier posts. Regards Jim

Hi TS, The FS1 motor in the UK is a sort of cult bike if you are between 45 & 55 years of age as they were all we could ride back in those days! The RD50 came to the UK in 78 and was slowed to 30mph/45kph (government legislation). The RD 50 piston is a mm taller than the std FS1 piston but the FS1 cylinder head allows for this no problem. My question/comment was how much do I need to cut back the FS1 disk valve to accomodate the extra ports in the piston, I guess I already know the answer as on modaling the FS1 cylinder, today, with the RD piston there will be very little it could do without a lot of work to the rear transfer port on the FS1 barrel. Regards Jim

Hi Ardy, I would guess forget about the ac voltage from the black/white wire. you will get that any way when I was taught that test was not required.. no spark tests were as follows :- 1) replace/check spark Plug -> ok 2) replace/check HT cap ok-> 3) check/replace ancillary switches main/kill/side stand ok-> 4) Test/replace HT coil ok-> 5) check ignition timing & point condition ok-> 6) check/replace condensor ok-> ignitoin works but in the field the timming & point condition were checked first (it was assumed the ancilary switches would be fine) if the points showed signs of burning or took along time to clean after cleaning them & setting the timming it would be good practice to check the condensor, then to coil.. and onto switches. You have not replied if the bike is fitted with the side stand/clutch switch so if fitted these may have gone o/s ( on this point if the neutral light bulb is blown or switch is o/c the bike will not spark as the bike will not start with the bike in gear (n light switch o/c or clutch switch if fitted o/c or bulb blown). You mention in earlier posts that you connected the black/white directly to the coil if this has been done via the loom one of the fail safe will take over the only way to do this is to disconnect the plug & run a wire from the black/white mag side to the coil (this will bypass the kill/ignition switches you have connected via the loom). If you have done this I would guess that the igntion timming is incorrect or the condensor is at fault. Regards Jim

Hi Nath, you will need the guides but those Hyvo chains were/are good. perhaps no need to put one in, as an odd point I had a bike break the guide into 3 bits and guess what ... there was nothing wrong with the motor bar the carb set up. Look at it this way, if each of your 4 cylinders are trying to idle at a different speed .. cyl 1 @ 600 rpm cyl 2 at 750 rpm cyl 3 @ 500 rpm & cyl 4 @ 1000 rpm, which gives irregular forces applied to the primay (hyvo) chain as it flexes right to left (rather than up & down) it tends to snap the weller tensioner/guide. I know this sounds difficult to swallow but I was there and experenced these problems when these motors were new (b4 you were born perhaps). Regards Jim

Hi TS, I am playing with FS1's may be FB5 in your country, this motor shares the same bore & stroke with, in the UK, the RD50. The FS1 is a disk valve motor (piston ported), the RD is a reed valved motor. To date I have fitted an RD50 piston, which I must admit, has a slightly higher crown (by about a mm) and the reed valve windows at the rear of the piston skirt which now allows the motor to rev some what more. The windows appear to allow extra fuel into the transfer ports but to date I'm having problems with the disk valve ... how much do I cut it back ? Rgards Jim

Hi, There is a difference between a slight dip 30/40 rpm and where I was coming from nearer a couple of hundred rpm from the training I was given this would give you a carb fault (in this case the knock from the motor was a diagnostic bonus). I know nothing of FI bikes as I have never worked on one that had a fault with the FI, But I would guess that the inbuilt software in a FI system would 'fault' efi light on or tacho going into fault mode) if a problem occured with carbed motors you had to work out what was amiss, with the early XJ/YX/FZ motors they suffered badley with the 'knock' there has been loadsa times the (then 17 year old who had passed the test) came in with an XJ series motor with about 4,000 miles on thinking it was knackered (shouting warranty) had to be gentley told you need to have your carbs done ! Regards Jim

Other things to check over & above the HT coil earth & resistance could be the woodruff key on the mag (I'm sure this is fine) but if the crankshaft is allowed to spin without the mag being securley locked to it the ignition timming may dynamically alter Regards Jim

Hi TS, If the bore & piston height are the same for the 2 motors the pistons will interchange (piston height = distance between the piston pin & crown), if the piston skirt is lower on the DT this could be adjusted to suit the LT motor if the skirt is higher I would be inclined to fit the piston and make other adjustments to the inlet tract, ign timming and exhaust. I would guess parts for the LT motor are just about exhausted so parts from a 'cousin' engine may very well keep this motor running. Regards Jim

Hi Sigma units are push bike units but the following is good :- The reed switch/pickup are connected to the fork via strong bands/zip ties rather than a cycle sized mount. The magnet supplied is easy adapted to fit a m/c sized spoke (you just have to gently open the mount outwards and fit a larger screw) . But dont obtain a sigma unit with cadence as you will have no use for that function and if you have line of sight between the sigma head and the reed switch (pick up) the wireless ones are cool. Regards Jim

Hi Ardy, if you have fitted new points have you cleared the covering from them ( a small mag/warding file will do) an set the timming to 1.8mm btdc for a reason these bikes will not produce a spark if the ign timming is to far out, You cannot just gap the points you need the points to open at 1.8mm btdc +- 10%. Gapping the points to 12 thou at tdc will not insure a spark. Don't forget this motor does not need a battery to run so any ref to needing one to produce a spark can be ignored. Which wire from the stator plug (Black,Yellow,Green/Red or sky blue) did you get power from ? For the ign you would only need to look at the black (or black/white depending on age) and for sure by a simple disconnect of the plug from the loom could give a 'spike' from the ign circut if the condensor is charged and the points in the correct position. When you earth the HT coil how are you doing this ? If the bike is later Yamaha changed the ign to black/white rather than black in order to stop people connecting the ign straight to earth (no spark from that ! D) ) Regards Jim

Hi Rod, in that case the motor needs the carbs adjusting .. balance & mixture... I guess the noise is only there without the bike under load (tick over in N) when the bike is running it's fine ? try the following :- allow the engine to warm up and idle then switch the lights on ... if the idle alters you have a defo carb problem (balance/mix). If the idle does alter and the knock remains that will pin point the problem to mixture, to a degree I have added this coment to loads of posts and from the replies no one thinks this is true, but as a chalenge to any one bring me a XJ550/600/YX600/XJ650/750/900 with the knock at idle problem & I'll fix it for free ! Regards Jim

Hi Rod, At what engine speed does your YX600 knock <1k or 3k ? With the choke on the bike is normally at fast idle ,3k or there abouts, and decreases when the choke is turned off. The correct idle speed, when warm is about 1.1k. The oil light is level rather than pressure so if the bikes has pressure problems the light wont come on as long as there is enough oil in the engine, but one thing to take note of the light may come on under high engine speed & up hill (it will flicker a bit) this is normal. Valve clearances on the YX do have a shorter service time than water cooled varients and tended to tighten up rather than loosen, good practice would be to check the clearances, adjust the cam chain, balance the carbs & adjust the mix screws, this will normally remove most knocks from the engine. Regards Jim

Hi There Meat (beef, lamb or pork ?) looks like a 'metal mouse' has been gnawing at your piston while the bike was laid up but from the pics I would guess you could make a nice little bike from it as long as you can find a piston kit for it which is the next oversize up so the cylinder is bored just to clean it up. If the bike has been laid up for some time you may want to strip it down and fit new main bearings & seals (new motor nearly) and if the big end is noisey fit one of them too (total motor rebuild) . I would guess you could have a good little bike there as long as you can find the parts to restore it. In the UK we had DT100 and from the Pics some parts may fit ! Regards Jim