JimR

HI Merv, old frame numbers where just 3 digit model code followed by the production number so the 2YL will signify the model (UK XV535) anything after this is just the production/engine/frame number, which sould match or be within a digit or 2, from seeing Yamaha production lines in 1980 the only reason for non matching numbers would be if the jig that brought the frame to the production line was incorrectly loaded (wrong frame as they were numbered b4 being set to the line) or there had been a problem in engine manufacture, It would be iteresting to know if anyone has a Yamaha out there that has a frame/engine number within the tollerence (new engines in old bikes will give and engine & frame number too far apart for tollerence). Regards Jim

Hi Blades, was that an ebay sale or A.N other internet purchase ? Regards Jim

Well Done, now thats over & done with what are you going to do ride sensable or just rag it everywhere ? Regards Jim

Hi Caddy, the SE frame was a wee bit different to the std one so there is a chance the SE parts will not fit, I'm not saying it would not be impossible but may need a bit of modification in order to fit. Regards Jim

Hi Jonny, perhaps this link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Avon-Roadrider-AM26-...8QQcmdZViewItem will help. Regards Jim

Hi Foamy, there is nothing wrong will the old Slovaks ... just do the party trick with the gear lever !!! I notice bidding ended on that item did you get it ? Regards Jim

A good old ETZ .....fantastic bit of kit .... Tractor style it may be .... but I would chalenge anyone to ride the 300 ETZ and not come away 'impressed' Regards Jim

Hi Mark, that is unlikly to be oil .. in that sense it is more likly to be petrol/oil mix that got thro the head gaskit rather than oil itself. But in order to check that the mechanical seal to the rear of the water pump is ok check the gearbox oil if it is white & quite thick, water is getting into the gearbox via that seal. The amount of oil that would pass in the other direction is very small and would not show in the coolant, unless the problem has been a) around for quite a while the seal is totally cattled (in this instance the g/box would fill with coolant). As you have pulled the head off & I guess replaced the head gaskit there is a chance the problem is solved already. Regards Jim

Hi Drewps have you used the front TLS brake as well ? And I reckon the 250c spoke lacing pattern was awsome ! Regards Jim

not a problem, The cap you show is not threaded so this would produce confusion. there is a chance we were talking the same thing but a rad with a thread no chance Regards Jim

What's all this about ??? please explain !!! Regards Jim

As the Rad cap does not have a screw thread (the expansion tank may have) I guess we are talking different things, but I would love you to produce the diagram to ensure that we are talking on the same part. Regards Jim

hmmm its good to have ur opinion Regards Jim

So the cap is like a can lid ?? I would guess the cap can be undone and the steam/air taken away with no problem to the user which would then allow the user to add the coolant to the system as the air is expelled but I'll learn here the rad cap has a ring pull fitted ... so explain how the ring pull works ? Regards Jim

Hi TT not a problem I was just interested if the US had freebie stuff over theUK bikes ! Regards Jim

So what tyres do you want ? and in what saftey rating ? in another post you asked for advice and I would guess you would have the answer but without the age old question :- what are the tyres being fitted to it may be difficult to answer your question. Regards Jim

Hi Jonny, Reinf will stand for Reinforced normally done as R .... so what bike ru fitting a 90/90*18 R tyre to ? Regards Jim

Ah !!! I guess if you have a brake that is locked up it would be difficult to pull off !!! Its good to check the obvious rather than suspecting some part of the motor is at fault and as you found it I guess you dont need the Homer Simpson award .. unless you have funny coloured skin and like some poo beer ! Regards Jim

Hi Mark, coool you got the valve set correct now and the bike is back to normal ! Coolant Leak :- No need to drain the system just get the bike warm(ish) and remove the cap (becareful as there is a chance of getting scoulded) this should expel any air within the cooling system then just refil ... Regards Jim

Hi Cad, just find some UK spec XS250C wheels ... spoked, drum to the rear & twin leading shoe to the front and to be honest there would be no reason to fit a disc front brake if a correctly set up TLS brake was installed. The XS250C retained the same frame but had a different S/A so with a 250C S/A and footrest mounts (where the brake cam fitted thro) you will end up with an XS400 spoked & with some drum brakes to die for. Regards Jim

Hi, did old XS400's have a fuel pump ? I think not so that could be discounted, the noise you mention with fuel pumped bikes where the pump will refill after the bike is left for some time or in high temp when the ignition is turned on is correct, but what happens with a bike with no pump ? XS400 used a vaccum tap which when the engine was not running, sealed the tank (no On/Off Reserve just On/Reserve/PRI) which in turn would allow the fuel to expand in the correct conditions and would then vent thro the tank cap ..... RD series bikes (250/400) had the same cap (or deritive) and suffered from the same noise if the fuel tap was in the off position, if left on there didn't seem to be the same problem, but as I cannot be sure that an XS400SH is a SOHC XS motor (worst culprits) and US DOHC motors may have a fuel pump (UK DOHC motors did not & still had the strange noise) it would be difficult to work out where the noise is comming from. Regards Jim

Hi Growls, so put this right in my head .... you pull the clutch in drop the bike into gear and the bike continues to run and only when you let the clutch out the bike stalls ? or is it as you engage the gear with the clutch in the bike stalls ? Regards Jim

Hi Drewps, Thats what I thought (in fact knew) so we are not sure of the weights of the SE models ? i.e is the 250SE heavier than the 400 ? I seem to remember that the XS250SP & XS360SP where the same weight (SP being the spoke wheel version of the same model year CW being alloy wheels). That would then produce an XS250DSP & an XS250DCW. I now think back ... the 1977 blue XS400 that continued on till the SE (in 1980) .. dam thing did not sell well at all, in fact I still had 2 in stock in 1981 which had to be registered in order to save the 10% tax levied from the government or else I would still have them bikes in crates as the SE version just took hold. From memory the Blue XS400 had square cylinders (like the 250) and was replaced in 1980 with the rounded cylinders on the SE bikes. Prior to SE it was simple to work out how big the motor was ... as the one had 250 on the side panel the other 400. With the introduction of the SE both side panels bore the US Custom logo and the cylinders became the way to work out which was which. Later the US Custom logo was replaced with a logo that said 'Special'. So in a nutshell we had the following :- XS250SP XS250CW XS400SP XS400CW XS250SE XS400SE and then the odd ball XS250C The 360 tended to be a 'super' odd ball that replicated the 250 with the performance that most 250 owners expected from their 250's Regards Jim

well I might know a young lady who would do that ... as long as ur clean and pay about £30 for the job to be done, other than that I guess ur passenger would be up for it ... as long as both of u r in one piece and dont have some form of head injury. Regards Jim

oh you forgot to add 'would you' !!! Regards Jim