JimR

Hi, I would guess the metallic noise is when the starter is engaged (turning) and/or on release of the button ? If so it maybe time to service the starter motor. If you take off the r/h c/c cover you will be looking at the clutch & primary gear, the starter chain/clutch are under the l/h c/c cover also this cover would be removed in order to remove the starter motor and you would have to drain that new oil ! Your running problems sound like you need further servicing to the carbs & engine, to start setup the ignition (if you have access to a dwell meter set the dwell to 22½% if not just gap them but you will not get such a smooth running engine) & set the timming up. Then cast your eyes to the fuel supply & carb balance. When the bike was new the vaccum fuel tap gave very little problems but as now its old it may start to play up and not supply enough fuel to the carbs causing them to to run 'weak'. Check that the vaccum take off pipe (from the tap to the R/H manifold is in good condition, if it has gone hard (the pipe ) or split/cracked replace it. While the tank is off,balance the carbs using vaccum gauges the spin off from this will be the readouts will give you a good idea as to the state of the top end of the motor (Head & Cylinders), a good level would indicate that part of the motor to be fine, the inability to get the motor to run with carbs balanced (same vacuum) would indicate a problem with the valves (the lower reading cylinder being the culprit) low readings, bike running ok when balanced, would indicate piston/cylinder problems. And lastly set the mix screws so the bike idles fine & the idle speed does not increase/decrease when the lights are turned on or off. Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, its quite supprising what you can do with a two lb hammer & a drift, I guess you also managed to get the bushes/plastic top hats out ok ? Regards Jim

Hi All, has anyone got either a link to or copies of the correct read outs for the CDI unit/ pulse coils & ht coil for a 1995 TRX850 ? Regards Jim

Hi Warkilt, is this an instant fuse blow or only when the starter motor is engaged ? If when the button is pressed does the motor turn over or is it at this point the fuse blows? If the fuse blows at this point I would guess a fault with the starter motor but we need some more info Regards Jim

hmm That sounds a little non committal just insure 'old Salty' does his job properly and perhaps take a 'thick material' pad & a bouncer with you for good measure As long as you watch what they do you should be ok .... Regards Jim

hmm this sounds like youth no money & lots of right wrist followed by a long push home done it & wearing the tee shirt Regards Jim

Hi Paul, thats where the pad saw comes in Regards Jim

Thats the long & short of it the heat & pad saw are the last resort Regards Jim

I do about 2 to 3 pairs a year as eventually the poo breaks down the outer case (seems worse if you have to paddle around land fill for extended periods, if I get out of going to land fill the boots last longer.). And to date have not had a bad pair. I must admit some more expensive/named brands tend to die in a week or 2 of landfill exposure And the Sterling boots don't seem to worry if they have the o/e laces in or Tesco's value laces .... (a quid for 2 sets) Regards Jim

Yo ought to try Sterling Waterproof boots ( http://www.safetybootsuk.co.uk/sterling-wa...ap-p-79183.html ) I have used these on the bins for a year or there abouts and are well waterproof, allow you to kick people in the shins and have a steel under sole. On top of that they are crap proof too I no longer get the contents of nappies (adult & infant) seeping thro and knackering ur socks... but I guess there not everyones cup of tea. Regards Jim

I'am a twat !! I didn't read the post correctly ! (part & parcel of getting old I guess) So to remove the bits of the spindle get hold of the following :- Freeing agent blow torch pad type hacksaw big hammer a supply of drifts Good quality stillsons a tubular support (to put over the swing arm where the spindle fits thro the bush) Then run the freeing agent between the remains of the spindle & bush (this make take frequent applications over a day or so) locate the tublular support over the Swing arm (were the remains of the spindle is) and on the floor at the other end. beat the poo out of the remains of the spindle from the other side. If you get movement and mangage to get enuff spindle showing to get the stillsons on it stop. Soak the bush/splindle area in freeing agent and leave for a while. secure the S/A in a vice and attach the stillson to the exposed spindle and work clockwise & counterclock wise, adding more lube/freeing agent at regular intervals. If you manage to get the spindle turning quite freely it should now just knock out. This is method #1 others to follow Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, in the past I had loads of swing arm spindles on DT seize up, not un common I'm afraid. I would guess the arms are from to different years as I had that problem (wheel not fitting) too and is not a friday one, just to be used with different components. Regarding the spindle removal ; have you cut thro the spindle in order to remove the arm from the bike or is it still in one peice ? dependant on which way you have gone will make a difference on which way to go forward & to de honest I would forget the spare arm Regards Jim

Hi Dan Perhaps its just out of adjustment ? I would guess Yamaha ergonomics are correct (along with other larger manufacturers ) so if the if there is no visible to the lever and the lever appears to be in the correct position this may indicate some form of adjustment is needed... but I guess you have tried that. Regards Jim

and dont forget the Fiz has a superwide 4 speed box married to a small 2 stroke motor, perhaps some riding of a bike of this nature would help with the learning curve. Regards Jim

Hi Drewps, not that pedantic ... just used the wrong grammer I was just trying to ascertain which ferry company you were using so I guess you will be doing Stranrar/Belfast ? Last time I went to NI I went from Pembroke to Rosslare and road 'up country' on my crossing company operatives took charge of the bike and stowed it ... but I must admit this was back in the days of long boats ! Regards Jim

Hi Drewps those are the wheels !!! (piccy 1), the pic does not do them justice .... but a pic of the XS250C would be good so you could see what an odd ball it is !!! Your XS400 looks good & I notice it has the square cylinders to date it prior 1980... perhaps get some of the rounded ones from the SE to shed some weight Regards JIm

Hi Nathon, I guess that the meter lights (neutral etc) also no longer work ? If so I would guess you have pulled a wire when refitting the tank. Check all connections at the front tank mount and where the loom passes around the headstock, also it would be a good idea to check behind the h/lamp just in case something has been disturbed there Regards Jim

Where is NW200 sailing from/to ? Regards Jim

Just bin out on the Fiz got an indicated 62mph (downhill) and 27mph (uphill) .... the 27 was thro thrashing the nuts out of it in second (remember a Fiz only has a 4 speed box) if 3rd is selected it will hold that speed ... unless you have a head wind or you've had food ! I guess the MT has a close ratio 6 speed box where as the 900 Diversion has a wide space five speed box so it does require the lower gears to get it going, but I would not recomend pulling off in third cog on any bike as the strain on the transmission/clutch will cause some problems at some time in the future. Regards Jim

½ the gear changes have gone when I get the Fiz out it feels like riding a penny farthing in comparrison to the 900 (anything over 20mph ur in top and still have the ability to keep up with the traffic & out accelerate without having to touch the gear lever) .. The Fiz (I know is only 50 odd cc) does spend a lot of its time up & down the box and as I live in a very hilly region it spends more time in second than anything else Regards Jim

You will find the bigger bike easier to ride at normal speeds you will only get into trouble is high speeds & perhaps, in the wrong places. Regards Jim

Try the pub on a friday night .... with luck there maybe some guy in the corner asleep wearing said shoes .... remove the laces & he/she would be none the wiser Regards Jim

Hi Drewps Disc/spoke wheels = XS250SP Drum/Spoke wheels = XS250C so I guess the wheels you have are laced normally and not in the 'bunched' method of the 250C (which look well cool), to date the only info I can find on the net are links to the 1982 XS250C haynes manual or front brake shoes ... it would be good to if a pic so you could see what an odd ball it is ! Regards Jim

stick with the sensible !!!! no Regards Jim

If you look at the parts bookss online that will give you the part number follow the links in previous posts to look at the info Regards Jim