JimR

Hi, So the bike has after market electronic ignition fitted or is it an early DOHC 400. this may have some bearing (excuse the pun) on the problem Regards Jim

Hi Connor How do you know its about to start ? Regards Jim

Hi, The starter chain should have a couple of mm deflection (to tight and the motor wont turn over, too loose you get loadsa noise at start up). Cam chain has a set order to adjust it correctly, I would suggest that you do a full engine service on the bike. Don't skimp on the oil filter use the genuine one ! Service Manual Your bike has a 2 peice cylinder head where as the later models have a one peice head so a later manual will give you a good grounding on how to service your bike. REgards Jim

Hi, first off Onto the XS ... The TX500 can be also called XS500 look for XS500 manuals does the oil light flash on/off when the engine is running when warm/hot ? Does the motor get very hot ? When you refit the R/H engine cover dont forget to time the C/b point drive correctly or else you'll get a non running bike. In the UK a few XS500 suffered from broken cam chain tensioners but this was done to another problem please expand the problems you have a bit Regards Jim

Hi 'if' you loose your license you will loose all categories A & B plus whatever other categories you have. I would guess that the cat A/bike license (in that scenario) would need a re test but the cat B/car and any other cat's passed over 2 years ago would be returned to you after the ban. The ban would apply to all cats so there would be a period of not being able to ride/drive anything (bar a push bike or electrically propelled machine capable of no more than 12mph). So I guess you'll be on taxi's .... I had to go & see the traffic commissioner regarding a revoke on my cat C ... it was not nice but he did allow me to retest the cat C as the offence was on a cat A vehicle, if it had had been within his power he would have revoked the cat A ! Regards Jim

hi, Dont forget the valve timming issues in the topic ! Regards Jim. 50p for the Polo sounds good !

hi, Dont forget the valve timming issues in the topic ! Regards Jim. 50p for the Polo sounds good !

Hi Connor, The fuse box contains a few fuses so I guess the one you have blowing is the 'main' fuse ? First test is to bridge (short hot, I think the US term is) the starter switch (no need to have the ignition switched on) to turn the motor over if the wirring gets hot & the fuse blows there is a chance you have a problem with the starter motor, BTW another test would be to get the old kick start out & see if it starts ok from there. I'm trying to get my head around that you know the bike is just about to start, are you getting a fire then the fuse blowing ? At what speed does the starter turn at ? does it sound like the engine is being turned at 3 or 4 rpm or 50 rpm ? Regards Jim

Hi Cynic you should have white/red trace,green/red tace/black/yellow 7 yellow/black (for a CDi bike) the older bike had a manual advance retard bult into the mag but from what I can remember where totally centrifugal so can you give me the wire colours from the mag so I can work out where these wires go/work, as I cannot remember the 2 different formats, unless there was a mod at some point to perhaps get over the non charging battery with the lights on hence the 'fly' lead. Regards Jim

In the early/middle 80's to enable the bike to satisfiy the CU regs perhaps 81 jumps the gun a bit Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, so it is an '81 the extra wire follows down to the side stand switch .. in the day most owners asked us to cut them in order to save red faces after droping the bike into gear and it stopping thro the side stand ! Regards Jim

That would be telling ! Regards Jim

Hi Foamy, thats just the tip of the iceberg you may have 70 miles to go ... but back in the middle 70's I rode each week from Worcester to London 5 hour trip but the FS1e did it week in week out ... on 75p !!! <G> The whole year of collage and the FS1 didnt break down once .... tbh I did live the FS1 in Worcester one week and took a brand new TY50 and it took 8 hours but you young lads should be able to manage a long trip. Regards Jim

ah not up to speed been out driving dust carts from 5 am !! I'll catch up in a bit Regards Jim

Hi drewps, from the footage I cannot work out if the bikes are old 'bacon slicer' Guzzi's (exposed flywheel which would slice anything that came into contact with the flywheel) if so fair play ! Regards Jim

looks like an '81 to me Regards Jim

Hi Foamy, I would guess Welland is closer than Dorset .... but with the time scale both could be done ... infact I would guess Welland is in DT50 'punching' distance (about 1 tank of fuel for the return trip)so you could turn up too !!! Regards Jim

Try Welland Steam rally, your quite welcome to stay here ! and we do have loads of cheap beer ! have a look here Regards Jim

Hi Merv, this is but is the XRV run only open to owners of 'cough' ur um Ho.... , Hon......, Hond..... Honda's (there I've said it ) or is it open for all ? I know this year is well to late just thinking of the next trip ! Regards Jim

Hi Connor, which fuse ? Regards Jim

What does CHAV stand for ? I have various versions of the acronym but a definitive answer would be good ! Regards Jim

Hi Blades, Put a stinger out ... with 2 punctured tyres I would guess the bike would be out of action until the 'emergency dole payment'/break in kicked in to buy new tyres/tubes... but at least off the road for a while Regards Jim

Was he driving an elderly B/L car with the first name of Victor ? and perhaps 'he didn't believe it' Regards Jim

Hi Cynic, add to yearly service list :- remove s/a spindle & copper slip it Regards Jim

Hi, I would guess the metallic noise is when the starter is engaged (turning) and/or on release of the button ? If so it maybe time to service the starter motor. If you take off the r/h c/c cover you will be looking at the clutch & primary gear, the starter chain/clutch are under the l/h c/c cover also this cover would be removed in order to remove the starter motor and you would have to drain that new oil ! Your running problems sound like you need further servicing to the carbs & engine, to start setup the ignition (if you have access to a dwell meter set the dwell to 22½% if not just gap them but you will not get such a smooth running engine) & set the timming up. Then cast your eyes to the fuel supply & carb balance. When the bike was new the vaccum fuel tap gave very little problems but as now its old it may start to play up and not supply enough fuel to the carbs causing them to to run 'weak'. Check that the vaccum take off pipe (from the tap to the R/H manifold is in good condition, if it has gone hard (the pipe ) or split/cracked replace it. While the tank is off,balance the carbs using vaccum gauges the spin off from this will be the readouts will give you a good idea as to the state of the top end of the motor (Head & Cylinders), a good level would indicate that part of the motor to be fine, the inability to get the motor to run with carbs balanced (same vacuum) would indicate a problem with the valves (the lower reading cylinder being the culprit) low readings, bike running ok when balanced, would indicate piston/cylinder problems. And lastly set the mix screws so the bike idles fine & the idle speed does not increase/decrease when the lights are turned on or off. Regards Jim