JimR

Hi Jim, can you explain what a Scotish Ding-Ding is down here that may represent a small 2 stroke bike ! Regards Jim

coo I guess you pulled there !!!! you found someone (other than me) who likes Jawa's !!! Regards Jim

hmm ok I guess the girl friend is called 'the tank' Regards Jim

Hi, as long as you didn't apply the large hammer to the Tank you should be sound !!! Regards Jim

Hi, Sorry to say its time to stip the engine smoke/gas from the breather would indicate engine problems (this would also be connected to the hang @ 4k problem). On the good side tx/xs 500 engines come out of the frame easy and are easy to strip but there are a hell of a lot of bits in there so you need a big storage area to store them ! Regards Jim

Hi, which was my suggestion !!! I've fitted loads of Heli hoses and the brakes work fine ... without any other mods ! Regards Jim

Hi, if the YICS ports are blocked thats just the right position to balance & check the mixture on the carbs ... but if the YICS ports are not blocked you would need the Tool of which I have the diagrams to make one which will cost about £20~£30 to do (or you can find a ready made one on ebay perhaps). There is also a post on the forum which gives you the Yamaha part no so you could buy a 'real one' Regards Jim

Whoa .... hold up a sec ... as Cynic said & I mentioned it would appear as if there is a dealer fault ... if it was me in your position I would be down the shop everyday (not email ... on the doorstep) in order to get the bike back working. As I stated in other posts YMUK did what they had to with a non supply of parts within a reasonable time .... this case seems to show they have done that but the dealer is not pulling out the stops in order to return the bike to you. I would guess the bike is fit for purpose (if fixed) so JUST SHOUT AT THE DEALER !! Also bear in mind anything mechanical can break down ... my old mans Jag (in 1972) had a rouge oil pump and trashed the motor within a 100 miles or so but it was fixed in about a month or so and he continued on to buy more Jags... but hey each to their own Regards Jim

Oh Ok, know what each wire does could be an advantage .... my comment was where is it broke ... FS1's did have reoccuring wiring faults and I was just simply (excuse the pun) trying to short circut the diagnosis i.e to find out which section is at fault .... sorry to upset you Regards Jim

Hi, dont worry too much ... if the motor is out of the frame the job is easier .....but I'll describe it as in the frame. I guess piston #1 is the one on the left when sat on the bike (correct one to use). Ensure the Cams are set so the dots on them align with the marks on the l/h cam boss at this point joint the chain (if the chain is one peice let me know as you do it different in this case). Fit the cam chain tensioner (with the tensioner plunger pushed up & locked against the case but leave a gap of about 3mm between the tensioner & cylinder when fitted. release the tensioner (you'll hear a click) and lock it up then screw the tensioner to the cylinder. check that the crank is still showing LT against the datum mark and the cams line up (dots etc) then turn the engine CLOCKWISE (from the left) and SLOWLY about ½ a turn then turn it back anticlock and make sure all the marks line up. Dependant on which engine you have you may find the datum points on the cam sprockets ... let us know what you have ! Regards Jim

oh OK the diagram will not do alot you need to see where the loom has gone down ... but hey lets have a look at the fiz !

Hi this motor just tends to have the shims just below the cams and tbh they dont give a problem as long as the bike has been set up correctly. So how did the refetle go ? Regards Jim

Hi, same problem ! Regards Jim

Hi Mark, I guess Grandad status !!! Regards Jim

Hi Mark, not a prob .... just let me know what you need !!! Regards Jim

Hi, How much time have you spent trying to drill discs ? I would guess that better hoses will help (the oem only had a 3 year life). Adding floating discs may introduce another problem to an old caliper (it was not designed for those discs) and may produce some odd braking effects ... but as you have done it I guess you know best Regards Jim

Hi Junk, oh err the single unit does mean (without the kit to test it) you will have to do a replacement test and check out the battery voltage ... but I would guess someone in your locale has bought the correct test equipment ... but in saying that I couldnt/wouldnt afford it ! Regards Jim

Hi Luke what do you need to know about FS1's .... returning them to stock is something I do often let me know whats up with it ! Regards Jim

Hi, I guess the shop is at fault if Ymuk has supplied the parts the dealer should have a go at putting your bike back on the road but take into account workshop loading and perhaps the shop should have said 'yeh the bits are here but its going to take a few days to fit it in' .... my shop back in the 80's lacked parts from Mitsui/Yamaha but when they did appear the bike was put to the fore front and a few services were delayed in order to do the job.... I guess your local boys are just trying to keep today's cash coming in rather than the stuff that may appear a bit later ... Sorry to sound odd but each failure is a bit different ! Regards Jim

Hi WF, I could get them done here but you may need to leave them with me for a while ... depends on the time scale you are looking at ! Regards Jim

Hi what is fitted ? a finned box with 3 white wires , a red & a black and also a box with greens/blacks & stuff attached? if you have the triple white red & black box that is easy to be tested via checking the resistance between the whites (each other) and the red & black .. it shoud show resistance in one direction only if this is ok then repalce the VR .... if the unit is combined without $2000 worth of kit you will need to just try a sub one !! Regards Jim P.S when I get a few more seconds I'll post the correct test for that unit ... just give me a few secs

Hi I missed this one !! the answer is no the crudie connections will cause no end of odd problems i.e over charging & under charging it may depend on where the connectors are as to which problem you get ... but I'm sure you can sort this out !! Regards Jim

Hi Elimax, dont forget the rattle is the primary chain flapping about due to each cylinder trying to idle at different speeds which tends to give the noise problem replacing the clutch plates may help the bike but just think of trying to fix something that may not be broke (the clutch) ! the rattle/knock will go with ½ an hour on the carbs ! Regards Jim

Hi WF a run to Newbury to strip out the forks is not a problem .... rechroming them is up to you ! Regards Jim

Hi Dan, I'm just winding you up but yeah a Stratford sunday sounds cool .. let me know when you get back from abroad Regards Jim