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I would use a 10w40 semi synthetic bike specific oil with JASO MA in the spec.

Has it got "JASO MA" in the spec ? If so it will be suitable for a bikes wet clutch.

The first service was usually free years ago i.e labour , apart from any parts used like oils if done by the supplying dealer. If taken to a non supplying dealer they could charge you for parts and labour. Not sure if this is still the case. I would at least get the first few services done by a Yamaha dealer incase there are any warranty issuses later on. Tony

Did notice that on the bottom of that wiring diagram it does say RS125 not RS100. Does it show one for the RS100 in the Haynes manual ? Might be that the ignition switch is different on the RS100.

Looking at the diagram it looks like G (Green) and G/R (Green/Red) both go up to the ignition switch and come out as W (White) which then go to the rectifier to charge the battery. Position 1 on the switch is normal daytime running, position 2 is for running with lights on and position 3 is for parking light. In position 1 Green and White are connected for daytime charging and in position 2 Green/Red and White are connected for Night time charging. You can check the rectifier with a digital multimeter by setting to the resistance or Diode setting, disconnect the White and Red wires to the rectifier and put the Red probe on one terminal and the Black probe on the other terminal. Now swap the probes over. You should get continuity one way but not the other if it is OK.

Usually the baffle screw is a 6mm thread size by about 10 to 15mm long with a spring washer underneath. If you are talking about the wadding wrapped around the baffle with wire you can safely do away with this.

I would say the one on the Right. Loosen the screw and take it right out then try holding the metal part of the cable and try wiggling it from side to side while gently pulling on it.

Usually with that type of fitting there is a screw that stops the outer cable coming out. If you remove the grey oil pump cover (shown in the bottom left of your photo) have a look for a screw on the inside.

You mention piston rattle after a mile or two. Just wondering if it's getting enough two stroke oil ? Have you made sure the pump is working ok and bled through. If you look on the side of the oil pump you should see a small cross head screw with a fibre washer underneath. Make sure the two stroke tank is topped up then remove the bleed screw for a couple of minutes and watch to see if any air bubbles come out. Replace screw then run engine on tickover with the pump cable pulled out of the oil pump adjuster for a few minutes to bleed the oil line between pump and carb. What grade of plug are you running at the moment ?

RXS100 1983 - 1997 Idle rpm = 1350 - 1450 rpm.

Looking at the parts list the brake light switch has what looks like a shaped washer / bracket on the end of the rod with a shaped inside diameter. Does this locate on the spindle of the brake lever somehow ? http://www.cmsnl.com...03.html#results Tony

This was one of the first records I bought when I was 11.

Defineatly sounds like an ignition problem like plug,cap or coil. Trying running the engine when its dark or in low light and look around the plug, cap and coil area and see if you can see if it's sparking or shorting anywhere.

I Saw this and had to laugh.

Hi Maxwell The two data books I have I got off ebay a few years and only cover models from 1979 -1983 and 1984-2001 and were originally issued to Yamaha dealers as quick referance books. They are only data books with service data settings and don't actually tell you how to do a specific job. Do you have a Yamaha dealer near you who will give you the settings but obviously he will be doing himself out of a job and might be a bit reluctant. Haynes don't seem to list that specific model. The options would be to see your dealer and see if a Genuine Yamaha workshop manual is available but these are usually quite expensive or to see how much he would charge to do the job. Tony

I know this was the carb spec / jetting that was on my 1979 V reg DT125MX that had the silver box section swinging arm and had the airbox on the left hand side (as you're sat on the bike) with the two stroke oil tank on the right hand side. I know this is a 175 but this was the colour and graphics that was on my DT125MX http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/1214879/ Tony

The data I have for the DT125MX say's CarbType = Mikuni VM22SS Main Jet = #130 Jet Needle / Clip Position = 4H16 - 2 Needle Jet = 0.2 Slide Cutaway = 2.5 Pilot Jet = #22.5 Airscrew turns out = 1 and 1/4 Float Height = 21mm Idle Speed = 1,300 rpm Hope this helps Tony

Although you say the Kill switch is in the right position try spraying some WD40 in the switch and turnig it On and Off in case water has got into it.

Sintered means that the actual friction material contains small metal particles usually copper that give a better brake and also last longer. If you look at the friction material you can usually see the bits of copper in them. The only downside is that it can cause the disc to wear quicker. Tony

Usually on Yamaha's you will have two wires for each indicator which are a dark green and a black (earth) for the right hand side indicators and a dark brown and a black for the left hand side indicators. Usually the connectors are in the headlamp shell for the fronts and maybe under the seat area for the rear indicators. Hope this helps. Tony

In the Yamaha data book I have it say's XT125 (12V) 1982 - 1983 Valve clearance (engine cold) Inlet 0.05 - 0.09mm or 2 to 4 thou Exhaust 0.11 - 0.15mm or 4 to 6 thou Tony

Found these on ebay. Worth phoning to see if they are compatible with the F2. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-caliper-joint-seals-RD350-YPVS-RGV250-/160669165248?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2568a0e6c0 Tony

I know they are not listed on the parts lists as Yamaha didn't recommend you split the calliper.

I would say that the figure 59Nm or 43 ft lb is the correct one for the swinging arm pivot. The picture on chapter 5-5 looks like the engine mounting bolts and item 8 is described as Rear mounting bolt/nut. Tony