YPVS TONE

As fil77 has said above you should get the neutral light come on with the ignition on and without starting the engine. Has the battery got enough fluid in it i.e distilled water topped up to the upper level on the side of the battery and as above check the fuse which you should find inline on the Red wire near the battery.

The expander ring fits under the bottom piston ring.

GarnZ I have sent you a personal message. It does look like as slice has said that you do have to remove the riveted link to lift the head off as shown in the manual. Tony

Think you may find you can't buy the pickup coil seperately only as a complete stator assembly which would explain the high cost. Defineately worth contacting the firms blackhat250 has listed to see if they can help. There is a side cover listed on ebay that looks like it has the stator assembly on .Maybe worth contacting the seller to see if it is working and is the right one for your bike http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dtr125-dt125-dtr125x-dt125x-dt125re-2005-generator-stator-cover-engine-spares-/290976332492#ht_422wt_958 Tony

Check also the wire to the switch is not broken. if you disconnect the wire to the switch and earth it to the engine case the neutral light should come on. If it does then it does sound like the neutral switch.

Personally I'm with Airhead on this and I would leave the standard airbox and filter on.

Hi jacques Sorry I should have been more clear. The letters "USA" won't be in the engine or frame number on the bike it's just after the numbers in the book I have to denote a USA model. Can you post some photo's up to see what condition it's in but it will depend how much time/money you will want to spend on it. Have just found this parts book listed on ebay with a 397 prefix that say's Europe 75 so not sure now. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-RD200DX-1975-Fully-Illustrated-Parts-Catalogue-RD200-RD-200-DX-397-/350294887201?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item518f33cb21#ht_731wt_721 Tony

According to the book I have it looks like you have a 1973 RD200 model and it has (USA) next to it. Where abouts are you ?

Is this what you mean http://yambits.co.uk/rd350lc-speedo-drive-clutch-p-5977.html or if you want Genuine Yamaha the part number is # 341-25149-00 Make sure when you refit the wheel that the tabs locate in the gaps in the speedo gear. Tony

Think you will find that the transmission oil does only lube the transmission and clutch on the YR1 as being a two stroke will probably find it will have a sepeate tank for the two stroke oil to lube the crank and pistons as on the later two stroke Yams.

Think you will find it is supposed slightly damp with two stroke oil or air filter oil once it has been cleaned and dried.

Looking in the Workshop manual it say's to set the TPS position you turn the main ignition switch on, disconnect the TPS coupler , reconnect the TPS coupler which puts the machine into the TPS adjustment mode. You then loosen the TPS adjustment screws and turn the TPS until the tacho needle reads 5,000 rpm.Once done tighten the screws and either start the bike or turn off and back on the ignition switch to return to normal mode. Hope this helps. Tony

Got a Genuine Workshop manual for a 2005 DT125RE and it say's standard main jet is #210 with the carb i.d mark of 1DO. Tony

They do them here http://www.motoward.co.uk/valve-adjust-tool-p-2054.html and looking at the description they are the Genuine Yamaha ones not the motion pro ones. I,ve ordered a lot of parts from them and they send them out pretty quick. Tony

Use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and ethylene glycol antifreeze.

As wild foamy has said when you take the battery off you should disconnect the negative terminal first then the positive one. When you go to put the battery back on connect the positive lead first then the negative one. Also make sure the breather pipe is put back on the battery and is not kinked.

Is it possible that the oil warning light bulb holder has been put in where the speedo backlight bulb holder should be and vice versa if that makes sense. The oil warning light should come on with the neutral light and both go out when put into gear.

Seem to remember the RD200 I had which had a similar dynamo / brush setup did this . I used to have tickover set to about 1500rpm and remember the charge light used to flicker on tickover and go out when the revs hit about 2000rpm. Tony

Igniton timing 1.8mm BTDC plus or minus 0.15mm as here http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt100c-1976_model8557/partslist/%21SERVIC1.html#results Tony

If you've got the wheel out look on the shield on the side of the bearings and there should be a number i.e 6202, 6303 etc. This is the bearing number and you should be able to quote this to get replacements. There will usualy be a letter/s after the number depending on what type of shields it has i.e RS=Rubber shielded ZZ=Metal shielded. Make sure you quote this as well when ordering. What year is the bike ? Tony

What was the problem ?

If it's been rebored have the ports been chamfered ? If not this can cause the rings to catch and break.

If it is chain drive check the owners manual to make sure you've got the right amount of freeplay in the drive chain. If it was ok before they may have over tightened the chain which will put stress on the gearbox output shaft and rear wheel bearings.

Threebond 1104 is the same product as Yamabond # 4 which is what Yamaha recommends in they're service manual for the 350 YPVS for joining the crankcase halves.

Here is a link to the RZ forum discussing the Yambits Cranks http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=9770 Tony