YPVS TONE

According to the service data book i have it says refill with 165ML per leg of 10w or 15w fork oil .Tony.

In the genuine Yamaha workshop manual it is actually called the "pickup coil rotor cover" as you have to remove this when checkng the valve clearances .Tony.

Usually if you get a faulty rectifier / regulator you will get a lot lower voltage then you have so i would check the connections and make sure they are clean and tight. You can test the stator coils in the generator by disconnecting the block connector with the three white wires coming from the engine and checking the resistances across the wires i.e three tests they should be within 0.44 - 0.66 ohms . If this checks out the manual then just says replace rectifier /regulator .Tony.

According to the Yamaha manual connecting a volt meter across the battery terminals and running the engine to 3000RPM you should get 14.3 - 15.3 volts with the lights off . Tony

If i was you i would find another dealer as all the dealers i speak to are really helpful if i need spares for my 1983 350 powervalve providing they are still available and not discontinued.Sounds like your dealer finds it too much trouble and can't be bothered.Tony

Looking at the picture am i right in saying that you still have the drum connected to the cables if so then you will find if you remove the cables the shoes will fit flush against the operating cam.The gap is where the cables have taken up the freeplay in the shoes / drum and is normal.When removing the shoes leave the springs connected and pull the shoes up in a V shape doing the same in reverse when refitting. When refitting clean the shoes and put a LIGHT smear of copperslip on the pivots and operating cam where the shoes fit. Tony.

As your bike is aircooled the milky oil is caused by condensation in the crankcase caused by the engine not getting hot enough usually caused by too many short journeys. I would suggest giving the bike a good run and giving the bike an oil and filter change.Tony.

According to the Yamaha service data book i have the FZR600R ( 4JH ) should have 503ml of 10w oil per leg for a 1994 model Or 431ml of 10w oil per leg for a 1995 model. Tony.

Yes it's the bolt that locks the tensioner rod so by undoing it this releases the sping loaded rod to take up any slack in the camchain the locknut just stops the bolt coming undone. Hope this cures your rattle .Tony.

Did you adjust the camchain with the engine in the correct position ? If you take off the LH side crank cover you will see a C mark on the ignition rotor which you line up with the line on the upper pickup coil turning the crank in the direction of rotation i.e anticlockwise using the square on the end of the ignition rotor not the allen bolt.Then loosen the locknut on the camchain tensoner and then the bolt. This releases the spring loaded tensioner rod and takes up any slack in the camchain.Retighten the tensioner bolt to 8Nm and the locknut to 9Nm. Hope this helps. Tony.

To keep the fuel going while balancing the carbs turn the fuel tap to the prime positon .Tony.

The Yamaha service data book i have doesn't list oil level it only lists the quantity which is 142ML per leg of 10 weight oil. Hope this helps. Tony.

Probably a stupid question but is the kill switch on the handlebar in the Run position ? Tone.

I had the same problem on my Rd350 powervalve tank and came across a product available from tank care products tel : 07834415921 mon to fri that is used to line aircraft fuel tanks.It comes as a one part red sealer that you pour in to the tank and swill round to coat the inner surface. It does take a few days to set but once set will remain flexible and fuel resistant.You will have to make sure the inside of the tank is totally clean and degreased ( i used brake cleaner ) and dry also if someone has used petseal on the inside this will have to be removed first.I wouldn't use petseal as this tends to break up after a while and block carb jets. Tony.

If your having trouble starting after not being started for a week or two try turning the petrol tap to the prime position to fill the carbs for a few seconds then back to the on position this saves the battery while the carbs fill up. I have this on my RD350 powervalve if left for a few weeks the fuel seems to evaporate from the carbs so now i turn to the prime position for a few seconds then back to the on poition and it usually starts second or third kick. Tony.

The 3L2 prefix is a Yamaha RS200 and an X reg would be about right if this is in UK. They were basically a commuter bike with the engine based on the RD200 but with a single carb as you say and drum brakes front and rear where the RD200 had a disc front and drum rear. They were an official UK bike and not an import.Hope this helps . Tony.

If the tap is the same as a UK spec XJ650 what you have is a main fuel pipe which as you say goes to the carbs but the other smaller pipe is actually a vacum pipe which runs from the tap and goes to a stub on one of the inlet manifolds between the carbs and cylinder head,which i think is N03 cylinder counting from the left as you sit on the bike.If you look at the tap you should have 3 positons marked on it i.e ON,RESERVE and PRIME.The idea is under normal running you leave the tap in the ON position so when the engine is running it creates a vacum in the tap which opens the diaphragm in the tap which then lets fuel to flow.The prime positon bypasses the vacum side and lets fuel flow out without the engine running so you can fill the carbs when they are empty.The reserve position should only be used when you run out of fuel in the ON position but should be turned back to ON when you fill up the tank again.The other inlet stubs i.e 1,2 and 4 should have a black blanking cap fitted to them as these are only removed when you are balancing the carbs with vacum gauges. Hope this is some help. Tony.

You could try Motolink on 01526 344443 as they seem to do a lot of spares for the older YZs. If not i'm sure they would point you in the right direction. Tony.

Hi Morgy Just noticed in the manual they also list a fuel level of 6 to 7mm checked by connecting a piece of clear tube to the float bowl drain and undoing the float bowl drain screw with the fuel tap on and holding the tube next to the carb. The distance is measured from the horizontal line of the carb / floatbowl join to 6 to 7mm below the line with the bike level and upright. This is probably easier to check then having to take the carb off to check float height.Hope this helps.Tony.

HI Morgy The float height for the 05 YBR125 is 21.8mm measured from the float bowl gasket face (i.e gasket removed} to the bottom of the float. Also when checking make sure the tang of the float just touches the needle valve and doesn,t compress the spring inside the valve. Hope this helps. Tony.

According to the NGK data book i have the 2003 VP300 Versity scooter should have an NGK DR8EA grade plug gapped to 0.7mm or 28 thou in imperial. Hope this helps Tone.

HI I also have an 83 LC2 fitted with a steering damper. I managed to get a damper from MandP,a Kawaski type as there still made but the brackets i got from Mead Speed as they had a set kicking about. If you look on ebay and search "YPVS DAMPER" there is a set with a few days to go but it will probably go for quite a bit. MandP do a universal fork clamp for the 35mm forks but when i tried to fit it i couldn't get it to fit behind the headlamp/fairing bracket just to let you know. Tone.

According to the Yamaha service data book i have the XT250 needle clip position should be in the 3rd groove down from the top. Main jet #165. Air screw 2 and 1/2 turns out. Hope this is of some help .Tony.

XT550 ( 5Y3 ) Prefix Spark plug NGK DR7ES Gap 0.6 - 0.7mm i.e 24 - 28 thou Valve clearance Inlet 0.05 - 0.10mm ( 2 - 4 thou ) Exhaust 0.12 - 0.17 ( 5 - 7 thou ) Air filter i think is a foam type which you can wash out and lightly reoil Hope this helps Tony

If i remember rightly the SR and XT125 had a oil level sight glass in the right hand crankcase cover at the rear which has an upper and lower level mark which you check with the bike standing upright. If you don't have one and you have a dipstick you are right in saying that you unscrew the dipstick wipe the oil off and rest the dipstick on the threads i.e. do Not screw it in at all again making sure the bike is standing upright i.e Not on the sidestand .Hope this helps. Tony.