YPVS TONE

Are you sure it only has one carb ? I have a manual on cd for a 97 XVS650 that shows two carbs but joined together in one bank. Have a look at the bottom of the carb/s and see if you can see a drain screw/s on the float bowl/s and try draining them first. Tony.

Sounds like you have some bad connectors. First thing to do is get some proper connectors on the end and make sure they are not corroded. The wires are all colour coded so should go into the same coloured wires in the loom remembering that Black is earth on Yamaha's .Also as JimR said check the battery making sure it is topped up with distilled water up to the upper mark on the side of the battery and fully charged .DON'T use a car charger you will kill the battery.Do the indicators work with the engine running ? Tony

When you say the indicators don't work properly do you mean they come on but don't flash or just don't come on at all ? .You should have two wires coming from each indicator a black which is earth and a brown or green depending on left or right. If the wires that have been cut under the seat are the black for the rear indicators then this could be your problem as you need both front and rear indicators in circuit to work i.e flash .For the headlamp I would start by removing the headlamp from the shell and make sure the bulb is correctly located in headlamp as there is usually a locating lug on the bulb so it will only fit one way and checking the wires from the bulb holder match the correct colour wires in the headlamp shell. Tony.

Yes as Nooj says make sure you have the correct freeplay in your chain which should be in your owners manual or on a decal on the side of the chainguard. Remember the chain will be at it's tightest when the centre of the front sprocket, the swinging arm pivot and rear wheel wheel axle are all in line so as most bikes rear wheel axle are lower then the swinging arm pivot and front sprocket when you sit on the bike the chain will tighten up. Tony

It's also worth checking the engine mounting bolts are tight and as cynic says make sure the chain and sprockets are in good condition. On the DT125MX I had I found the best way to get the right chain tension was to sit on the bike,hold down the tensioner and make sure you have some freeplay in the chain. You say that the mains have been done but you can check the LH side one at least by taking off the LH engine cover and put both hands around the flywheel and make sure you have no up and down movement.If this is OK you may have to take the head and barrel of and check the big end. Tony.

I think you will find this is a common problem on the Diversion that are run in the winter or only do short journeys. It sounds like it is just the engine not getting hot enough to burn off the condensation that forms inside the crankcases. My neighbour has the same problem on his Suzuki GSX600FW Aircooled engine during the cooler months as he only has to go 5 miles to work.If you do a oil/filter change try to get it nice and hot before you drain the oil to try and get rid of the gunge and I would recommend only using a Genuine Yamaha oil filter. Tony

I think you will find that by adding shims (item 14 in exploded diagram) that you will increase the minimum pump stroke and make the pump deliver more oil. Usually once set this rarely needs adjusting but it is best to check now and again. To check run the engine on tickover and watch the adjusting plate (item 13) which you should see move in and out a small amount.Now when it is at its furthest most point out hit the kiil switch and measure the distance between the adjusting plate and the raised part of the pump pulley. On the early DTRs 3DB1 prefix the clearance should be 0.20-0.25mm or 8-10 thou and the later DTRs 3RN1 prefix 0.15-0.20mm or 6-8 thou.If necessary remove the small nut and washer(items 11 and 12) and remove the adjusting plate and add or subtract shims to get the clearance right. It is best to check a couple of times to make sure that the adjusting plate is at its furthest most point out before checking the gap. Tony.

Just remember when checking to make sure that the adjusting tang of the float (item A in first diagram) is JUST touching the tip of the needle valve (item as it is spring loaded and if you let the floats rest under their own weight you will get a false reading .Tony

Have a word with the guys at tankcareproducts.co.uk as I found them really helpful when my LC2 tank leaked and they supplied me with a sealer that is still holding but have been told that they have a new sealant to cope with the ethanol in fuel .Tony

If you go on the yamaha-motor.com website which is the USA site and click on Sport then parts and service and view parts catalog and select motorcycle you will find a parts catalog that goes back to 1963 and shows the 1970s R5 parts so you can compare the part numbers .Tony.

Do you now what size Allen key fits the bolts? If it is 6mm I think you will find that part number # 341-23469-00 will fit as this is whats fitted to my RD350LC2 which are still available to order from your local dealer. That part number is also the one for the XS1100G handlebar clamp bolts .Tony

The data I have for the TZR125R 1993-1996 model says 380ml per leg of 5w fork oil .Hope this helps. Tony.

I think the part you require is part #90249-12008-00 described as a "pin" which is listed under the stand-footrest-brake pedal section. I would think you should still be able to order one from your local Yamaha dealer. Tony

Just found an old copy of Mechanics magazine from December 1983 where they tested an RXS100 and they say Fuel Consumption as Average as 65.8mpg and Worst as 59.2mpg .They also list fuel tank capacity as 9.9litres (2.2gal) so I think 80-90mpg is a bit optimistic. Tony.

Make sure you slacken the top yoke pinchbolt that goes around the stanchion as this can make a differance and try spraying just a drop of wd40 around the cap as this can help stop the 0 ring sticking. I've used one of the long extension bars you get in a socket set to compress the cap with one hand while you try to hook out the circlip with a small flat screwdriver. Tony.

Just had a look in my old Yamaha Technical Service Bulletins that was issued to Yamaha Dealers and found this one. Model - FJ1100 XJ MODELS TR1 / XV750 Subject - Engine Oil level Light Many Mechanics do not seem to know that Yamaha use oil level and not oil pressure lamps on the above models. This lamp is controlled by a float switch and will illuminate if the engine oil level drops to the minimum mark. Note: If the bike is accelerated hard or driven on steep hills the light may flash on and off but this is normal and is not an indicaton of problems. Yamaha switched to level lamps rather than pressure lights because usually by the time a pressure light illuminates the damage is already done. With a level light the rider can constantly check the engine oil level. So as long as you keep a check on the oil level I don't think you have a problem Brother Reuben.Hope this helps. Tony

The XS400SE takes 142ml of fork oil per leg. Make sure the top yoke pinch bolt is slackened before trying to remove the retaining circlip and you have to push and hold down the fork top before trying to remove the circlip which is sometimes easier with assistance but be careful as it is under spring tension .Tony.

DO NOT use the N9YC as you WILL end up burning a hole in the top of your piston. On NGK plugs the lower the number in the code means that the plug runs hotter. Look in your manual if it says a BR9ES then find someone who has one . Tony

Have you got the float bowls on the rights carbs as they are different.If you take the bowls off and put them side by side you will see on the inside that one has a drilling to the starter jet in the float bowl and the other is blocked off. The one with the drilling goes on the LH carb (the one with the choke knob on) and the one blocked off goes on the RH carb.Also make sure the choke joining pipe is connected between the carbs. Tony.

Have you topped up the transmission case with oil ? as it sounds like a breather pipe. From memory of servicing the Passola I seem to remember there is no way of checking the level you just drain out the old oil and refill with the amount stamped on the transmisson case by the filler which I think is 600ml of 10w/40 oil. Tony.

From the info I have the 250 uses a BS32 Mikuni and the 400 uses a BS34. Tony.

Have you tried running the engine for a few minutes after you have put the 850ml of oil in and then checking the oil level ? This was a common thing on the RD200 engines when you did an oil change you think you put too much in but after running the engine the oil level would drop as it equalised in the crankcase. Also when checking the level after you have run the engine make sure the bike is on level ground and upright and take out the dipstick wipe it and then just rest the dipstick on the case threads without screwing it in to check the level . Tony

Can you take out the LH spark plug and either shine a torch down the plug hole to confirm that when the piston is at TDC the LT mark lines up with the pointer. The only other thing I can think of is have you had the cyinder head off and got the camchain/valve timing out ? Tony.

Although you set the valves with the LT or RT marks lined up with the pointer you must make sure you are on the compression stroke when you set the valves. When setting the LH cyliner turn the crank until the LT mark lines up with the pointer and watch the rockers.If they are moving you are on the wrong stroke so turn the crank another 360 degrees and you should find when the LT mark lines up again the rockers don't move. This is where you set the valve clearances at TDC on the compression stroke. The same for the RH side. Tony.

If if is standard you shouldn't have to mix fuel and oil in the petrol tank. Look under the RH or LH side cover below the seat and you should see a seperate oil tank that must be checked regularly and kept topped up with two stroke oil.You should also have a red oil warning light that comes on when the bike is in neutral as a bulb check but if it comes on when you are in gear you are getting low on two stroke oil. Usually it is best to check the level in the tank at least once a week depending what miles you are doing and top up as neccesary. Tony.